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Just redid my pads and hoses today and this how-to was a great help. I bought new rotors too but couldn't get the d#$m caliper bracket bolts loose to install them. Oh well, off to the Ford dealer! Great job and thanks again........
 

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the only thing to add to this would be to line up the notch on the lower back portion of the pad with the triangular opening on the caliper piston.....if not the pad might not sit flat on the rotor.
Just did the rears on my car this weekend. I missed jasonbi's earlier comment to align the piston so that one of the notches in it line up with the tab on the back side of the brake pad. I did not get the piston retracted so far into the caliper that the caliper could position down far enough to put the bolts back in. I had to fiddle with the rotation on the pistons on both sides to get one of the slots to align properly with the pin on the backside of the brake pad. Even then there was only enough room to just get the caliper back into position.

I spent an extra 2-3 hours total between the two sides to get these back on properly, even after figuring it out on the first one. [rant]

Also be sure to put pressure on the piston as you rotate it or it will not compress.

Mike O.
 

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Good description and good pictures. I'll be changing the brake pads soon. :) and it will be my first time changing the brakes of my car.
 

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Hi All,

Just tried to replace my pads with new ones, Had the tool and everything, this thread was very helpfull.

However, whilst the tool helped quite alot the piston wouldnt compress far enough to fit both new pads on, only one. if i spun it anti clockwise it would expand and then if i spun it back it would compress, but it never went far enough to completely go back in.

Any thoughts or ideas?
 

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I'd pass on that square tool, spend more or rent/borrow one.
 

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What they all said above. You really need the tool to press against the near side of the caliper to force it back. The Harbor Freight kit is set up for this.
 

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Sorry to necro post, but I just wanted to say thank you for this guide. I just picked up a 2006 ST and was unable to find anything to help with the rear brake replacement.

Whoever owned the car before me cross threaded a rear wheel stud and must have used a torque gun. Took everything I had to get that nut off. FYI, Dorman 610-340 is the correct replacement, not the 610-440 that everyone will try to sell you.
 

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Sorry to necro post, but I just wanted to say thank you for this guide. I just picked up a 2006 ST and was unable to find anything to help with the rear brake replacement.

Whoever owned the car before me cross threaded a rear wheel stud and must have used a torque gun. Took everything I had to get that nut off. FYI, Dorman 610-340 is the correct replacement, not the 610-440 that everyone will try to sell you.
Yea as you find out the rear studs are shorter then the front ones.......
 
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