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FF PHOTOG ENTHUSIAST
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So ... Visiting my family in Dallas TX my brakes starting acting funny and squeaking and all kinds of not so good noises.

Well it turned out to be my rear brake pads were over due for a change.

So I decided, since there are lots of new owners of previously owned SVTs now, I wanted to share a "How-To" do the Rear Brakes since the SVTs have discs instead of drums. And the manuals do not have the SVTs in them ... unless you get the FORD Standard Manual ... which I found is hard to find.

I also looked in the How-To Archive and the Rear SVT ones are not here. I've done this before ... but just wanted to share.

Anyways, here you guys go.

1ST off You want to go to AutoZone and buy a Disc Brake Piston tool.


Now ...

1) Find a good place to do this. I like finding shade when working on the car ... especially since I live in TX. Goodness.


2) Put a brick or something equivalent to the other tires that you are not working on. Helps the roll of the car.


3) Put your car in 1st Gear and release the E-Brake.



4) Good a good Hydraulic Jack (Ummm if you use the Small dinky one from Ford in your car ... please be careful) I also recommend some good Jack Stands as well. (If you are new ... )



5) Next Start to Take off the Lugs. I do this in a criss cross pattern that way it's evenly taken off and evenly put on.


6) As an extra precaution I put my wheel under the car as well. ... Hey can never be overly Safe. It's just something I do. Wheels are cheaper than fixing the the whole strut and all ... But that's just me.


7) I would also recommend some good ol' Gloves. Alrighty well lets do this now ...



8) Now with the wheel off you will see the brake caliper. There are bolts on the back side of the caliper. You will need a 13mm socket and a 15mm wrench to get this off. There are 2 of them. One on top and one on bottom. The 15mm is too help the bolt from just spinning and not coming off.







9) Now that you have the bolt off. You need to wiggles the Caliper off. It's on there. So wiggle with some force. The Force wasn't with me, so I just used my hands and rocked it back and forth til it came off. (Okay that was corny ... anyways).



10) Take off the pads. Eww some nasty ones here with not much beef. I am embarrassed to show you my other side ... (**OH FOOTNOTE**) When changing brake pads. It is best to change both sides not just one side.



New ones are shiny. Too bad Tommy Boy wasn't around ... I would've bought his ... nevermind.



11) Test Fit.


12) Okay now for the Brake Tool. Here is a pic for those of you still scratching their head.



13) You need to Screw the Brake Piston Back into its home ... funny. Yes people think you push this in when you actually have to turn it in. It screws back in.


Tool Goes over it.



13) Now once you get the Piston Down, I recommend some good Lube. Brake Lube that is. This helps with some of the Squeaking noise and also helps put the caliper back over the brakes. Easy to slip on ... hehehe ... anyways.


Lube the spots that come in contact with the Brake Pads (NOT THE SIDE OF THE PAD TO THE DISCS!!!)


14) Okay dokey. Lets put the caliper back over and Put in the Screws.


Just reverse the install and you will be done.


Time for some Ice Cream.

Hope this helps many of you. [:)]

-Ray-
 

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Good show! When I did mine, I had a dickens of a time getting the springs on the top of the brake pads to stay positioned in the calipers. One side of the spring would want to 'walk' into the opening in the top of the caliper, thus pushing the pad sideways. Did this over and over again...frustrating!
 

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FF PHOTOG ENTHUSIAST
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Discussion Starter #4
I make em clear for everyone to see. Man was it hard to take pics alone with a SLR Nikon.

Ray
Posted via FF Mobile
 

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i have never seen anyone take the caliper apart to replace the pads. but hey, whatever works.

good write-up[thumb]

to all people that want to do this. that square shiny looking brake tool is an absolute must to have. the piston screws back into place. a normal caliper clamp will not work. some people use different methods to screw the piston into place, but for the price of the tool, its well worth it. it makes it so fast.
 

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Great write up with LOTs of excellent pictures. rep for you!

Is this in the How-to section yet? it should be.
 

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hey i didnt read any of machined rotors.. can someone explain if i really need to do that?, tukani?, anyone?
You mean having the rotors turned? The reason you turn the rotors is so that way the pads has a new surface to seat on which aids in better stopping conditions. If you have the old surface on there you take a chance of wearing down the pads a lot faster and not having as good of braking quality as you should. But if you have slotted or cross drilled rotors most places won't turn them due to the dimpled edges causes the slicer to bounce and doing more harm to the rotor than just leaving it alone. Good How-To thread though Tukani. Rep to you man.[thumb]
 

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I wish I had this right up couple years ago when mine needed it. As far as turning rotors, I've found they warp sooner with hard use. And with most vehicles I've done, the cost of turning is only slightly less than new. The SVT rotors were much more than turning but the harder use justified new parts, and they were ridged pretty deep.
 

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I watched some videos then found this post...decided to replace rear pads and rotors...everything was good till I found one of the driver side caliper slides was siezed...Went to all local auto parts stores then hit Freehold Ford, I was told part is no longer manufactured...Anybody no where I can get a 2002 Ford Focus SVT driver side caliper mount...or let me know an alternative...Thank you in advance
 

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I watched some videos then found this post...decided to replace rear pads and rotors...everything was good till I found one of the driver side caliper slides was siezed...Went to all local auto parts stores then hit Freehold Ford, I was told part is no longer manufactured...Anybody no where I can get a 2002 Ford Focus SVT driver side caliper mount...or let me know an alternative...Thank you in advance
Try RockAuto...
http://www.rockauto.com

I usually find whatever I need for the SVT in there....
 

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Great write up, & awesome pix's! What rotor's are thou's? Everbody make's rotor's, I just want some desent one's= last longer!
 

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the only thing to add to this would be to line up the notch on the lower back portion of the pad with the triangular opening on the caliper piston.....if not the pad might not sit flat on the rotor.
 
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