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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, I apologize for starting a new thread. I couldn't find what I was looking for by searching and I didn't want to put it in a thread that wasn't titled correctly.

Context: I had a leaking passenger side output shaft seal. I also had a tear in the passenger side CV joint, so I was going to replace them both. I got a new seal from Ford, part # 2M5Z-1177-AA. I got a remanufactured CV joint from A1cardone. I replaced the shaft and the seal and the seal leaked.

I thought that when I installed the seal, I seated it by tapping on the seal instead of the surrounding frame. I was gone for a couple of weeks, so last week I got a new seal and installed it very carefully. I only tapped on the surrounding seal, and very gently until it was seated.

I took it for a short test drive and it was dry. Two days later now, and it is leaking again.

Here are my thoughts. I am going to take the new shaft out and compare the length to the original one. I did this originally, but only visually. I will now measure it.

Maybe the new shaft is a little short or long, causing it not to seal correctly?

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.





Here are the two best pictures I have of the seal and the shaft.
Also the part # is fairly clear on the 1st picture. I assume I used the correct one. It does say RF, which I interpret to mean "right front"?
Thanks,

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
03 Focus ZX5 SVT / CD Silver / 117k
88 Merkur Scorpio / Midnight Raven / 78k (restoration project)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It looks like Saturday will be the 1st day I have to investigate this issue further.
I have a couple of theories

1) The diameter of the shaft at the transmission is smaller than the original.
2) The seal is leaking from the mating surface to the transmission.
3) There is a dimension somewhere that is incorrect with the replacement axle halfshaft that is causing the seal to leak.
4) This is all a bad dream and I am actually still in highschool driving a 5.0L Capri RS, using an atari for a computer, and figuring out how to get a 50w X 2 amplifier to drive my 2 10" subwoofers [headbang]

I am going to pull the shaft out and compare it to the original, by length, and using a caliper, measure the relevant dimensions.

My only question at this point is: Has anyone else used a little permatex on the mating surface of the seal to ensure that there is no leakage?

Thanks again for any information.

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
03 ZXT SVT / CD Silver / 117k
88 Merkur Scorpio / Midnight Raven / 79k (restoration project)
 

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That seal doesn't look like its in the differential housing all the way. The surface of the seal is supposed to be flush with the surface of the diff housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have an hour or two available this morning. I will check that and let you know. Thanks for the observation, I hadn't caught that.

Thanks,

Darren Needham
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took another look at the seal on Friday morning. I tapped on it trying to see if it wasn't sealed all the way. I really couldn't tell if it moved or not, but it continues to leak. I think my plan now is: order another seal, order a rear motor mount. Remove and compare the new half shaft to the original one to see if I can determine any dimensional differences that might cause the leak. If not, when installing the new seal I will use a little bit of permatex on the lip of the seal to help promote a leak proof install. I will replace the rear mount also. If this doesn't fix it, I am not sure what to do.

Will update when the parts arrive.

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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Permatex on the seal isnt going to do anything. It needs to be flush with the surrounding part of the diff housing.

One easy/cheap way of driving it in is to get a piece of wood, say a small piece of 2x4 big enough to cover the seal. Hold the piece of wood up against the seal and strike it with a hammer. Do it with some force and move the wood after each hit to ensure the seal is being driven in square. It takes some force to do it so don't be shy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate the advice. I will do what you said. It will be a couple of days till I have the time, but I will let you know what happens.

Thanks again for the advice.

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That seal doesn't look like its in the differential housing all the way. The surface of the seal is supposed to be flush with the surface of the diff housing.
I just re-read your post and I don't think I understood what you were talking about.

Are you talking about the silver metal part of the seal not being flush with the housing? I have just been seating the seal by tapping on the outer metal frame.



I was under the impression not to tap on the inner part of the seal because it would ruin it. However, I have never done a front wheel drive vehicle before.

Thanks again for the help.

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had some time this morning, so I removed the half shaft to inspect the seal. I haven't received any input from my previous post, so I am reluctant to pound on the silver part of the seal. I did purchase a length of PVC pipe and plan on tapping on the seal some more. If anyone has more input, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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I'm looking to purchase the re-manufactured CV joints for my car. A1Cardone's website says they don't sell directly. Can you tell me where you ordered it from and how much it was? Thanks.
 

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I have been gone for a couple days, just catching up on your thread. Feel free to PM me your email if you want a direct conversation, I did my seals last fall.

You are correct, do NOT tap on the central silver ring of the seal. Your PVC idea is exactly what I did. The 2x4 idea will only work if you drill out the diameter of that silver center ring so no force is put on it, if you just put a block across it you are still hitting the central silver ring.

From what I could tell from the pics the outer ring is seated properly with the diff housing. The central silver ring does seem like its sticking out further than mine did, is there any tension on the shaft? like is the shaft pulling the seal out in that pic?

I agree with comparing your half shaft dimensions with calipers. Also check the new ones for any scratches. A dynamic seal can definitely let oil slip by if there is a scratch on the shaft. My drive shaft was scratched during a clutch job install and rear main seal replacement. I got the car back from the shop and it drained over 5 qts of oil in a week! (me adding oil to keep it going) I had presumed the new rear main seal was faulty, turns out the shop found a gash in my shaft where the inner dynamic seal sat on the shaft. Luckily the shop fixed it all for me without additional charges.

This may not work, but if you could safely jack up you car on an angle so the passenger side is lower to get more gear oil against the seal, then maybe you can see a drop start to come out. It might take a while to build up a drop, or if you have the wheel off and can hand turn the shaft to see if you can spot the leak. But again, keep safety a priority as that's a long shot idea and I'd hate to hear of a forum member who got crushed cause some idiot told him to jack his car and an angle to see if he can tell where the leak is coming from! [:)~]

Anyway, send me a PM since you haven't gotten many replies to your posts, I'll offer what help I cam from my experience. I can be much quicker on the replied via gmail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry I haven't updated this in awhile, work, kids going back to school, life, have been kicking my butt [whip]

So, after messing around with replacing the passenger side seal multiple times now and having to deal with a vibration that I attributed to a bad motor mount, I have a solution.

As a recap, I have now replaced two of the three motor mounts, replaced the passenger side output shaft seal twice before, both times a leak was present. I also have a vibration that occurs at various rpm's under load.

I ordered the third output shaft seal last week and an extra quart of liquid gold for the transmission.

I replaced the seal this evening. Made sure to seat the seal correctly with my 2" PVC pipe. This time however, I installed the original passenger side axle shaft. Its only issue was a tear in the inner cv joint boot. Otherwise it is solid.

Surprise, surprise, no vibration and no leak. I think that A1-Cardone remanufactured half shaft is out of balance and is out of spec so it leaks at the seal. When I say no vibration, the difference was night and day. Totally smooth, VS not at all smooth.

I have been screwing around with this thing for two months. What a pain. I am going to contact A1-Cardone and see about getting this P.O.S. replaced or refunded.

Good night!

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As a follow up, I crawled under the car this morning to verify the seal was indeed working correctly, and it was dry. What a waste of time I have spent these past couple of months messing around with this!

Later,

Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
 

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i know you got this figured out allready but if it starts leaking again check your half shaft carrier bearing bracket i had this same prob for ever seal after seal leaking come to find out the shaft was moving in and out of the trans because the bearing bracket was worn and alowing the bearing and shaft to slide inside the bracket wearing the seal out prematurely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you for the insight, I will keep an eye out for that.

Darren
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As a final follow up to the Passenger Side CV Half Shaft vibration issues I was having, after 7 months, the vibration is still gone and the half shaft seal is dry as a bone. On a side note, I ended up replacing the Dog Bone rear motor mount again with a genuine ford part from Central Florida Motorsports. When I replaced it during the fiasco of the half shaft, I replaced it with an Autozone one. It fell apart after only a couple of months. Never will I do that again. The ford part is holding up well.

I haven't been on here much at all, but with the spring I hope to devote more time to the SVT and share with the group. Have a great night!
 
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