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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi friends. Just picked up this SVT header for 60 bucks. There is a fitting welded to the side of the one header pipe. Can anyone tell me what this is for? Thought this was maybe for an EGR fitting? Any info would be helpful.

Also I'm looking for used SVT cat, Flex pipe and dipstick. I'll post in wanted adds soon. Thanks !
 

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I have a OBX 4-2-1 mod my egr with valve & line gas. In summer I close the valve and now in winter I opened because tempertature is cool. 6 more weeks winter is over and valve by close again.
 

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that looks like a really crappy weld.

not sure what it is. a EGR should come straight off. with in angled up like that not sure. but the But and the cut section of pipe look consistent with the EGR.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's actually 3/4 inch plumbing. I know, that weld looks like crap! It's on there good though. The header has a 1/4 inch hole drilled with that god awful plumbing welded to it. The 90 degree bend has copper pipe leading away from the 90.
 

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you need something like this for it to properly fit to the EGR with no modification to the EGR tube

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a better pic of the fitting. I'll read up more on how the EGR tube is constructed and which to use (SVT, Zetec, or fabricated. . ). I'm just amassing the parts for now and reading like crazy. Thanks Magnus and all.
 

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That is EGR tube that is cut and the 22mm some od size nut. but should not enter the header that way. it should come in with out the 90 degree bend
 

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You can get the dip stick from cfm for 40.

Any advice on where to ger a proper bung?
 

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That is a standard EGR bung, someone screwed in a 90* plumbing fitting with what looks to be copper tubing and a compression fitting.

The stock EGR fitting should screw into the bung on the header. Or you could get a plug...
 

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That is a standard EGR bung, someone screwed in a 90* plumbing fitting with what looks to be copper tubing and a compression fitting.

The stock EGR fitting should screw into the bung on the header. Or you could get a plug...
Is not the EGR a threaded end with a taper? the tube the EGR that connects to the header has a flange end with a nut to go onto threads.

you delete it to help the engine get warmer faster? that's not quite the right logic because the EGR increases your intake air temperature (helping with emissions) but because your increasing the inlet air temp it should actually help it heat up faster.

That has a 90 degree bend, a reducer, and then a nipple for the nut on the EGR tube to secure on to. but likely not a very good seal because the pipe is not going to have the 60 degree angle taper that is needed.
 

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Is not the EGR a threaded end with a taper? the tube the EGR that connects to the header has a flange end with a nut to go onto threads.
Here are a few pictures that I just took of my EGR bung and setup.


It is an M22 thread, and yes the stock bung may have a flare (tapper) inside, this one does not and it still worked.


As you can see here,



the stock EGR threaded fitting is not the actual flare/tapper, the threads are straight cut. There is a stainless tube that goes through the threaded fitting and is then flared using a flaring tool. As well the tubing for the EGR is bent, there are no angled fittings used.

Here is the M22 plug that I bought from the local parts store.... No leaks


you delete it to help the engine get warmer faster? that's not quite the right logic because the EGR increases your intake air temperature (helping with emissions) but because your increasing the inlet air temp it should actually help it heat up faster.
Well I'm not 100% on these Ford engines, but on most other vehicles the EGR does not effect idle or warm up as it is only activated under certain engine loads/conditions and idle isn't one of them.

That has a 90 degree bend, a reducer, and then a nipple for the nut on the EGR tube to secure on to. but likely not a very good seal because the pipe is not going to have the 60 degree angle taper that is needed.
I agree that image provided by the OP above is a completely ghetto rigged setup, nothing on that looks OEM... hell it isn't even automotive. See that fitting that clearly has CHINA stamped on it, that's a plumbing fitting! That being said, at the end of the day you do not require 60* flare for it to seal properly, sure it helps, but not required.


Op if you are looking for some OEM EGR parts let me know, I have the complete setup that is not is use!
 

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its been so long since I looked at a stock EGR. I know on the pipes I needed the EGR tube was not threaded like you have shown.



I used this:

Cut off one end and had it welded to the exhaust runner.

so the pipe would fit like so:

 

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OK I can see that they are two different fittings, one is male and the other is female.

Where the stock SVT doesn't have an EGR bung. I would find the appropriate bung for the EGR system that you have on your car, be it male of female.

Looks like the OP has the female EGR bung on that SVT header. So if he doesn't have the male EGR fitting like I posted he has a choice to make.
 

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will the egr mod and possibly new o2 censors on a zetec with svt headers prevent a check engine light???
 

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Of you use the SVT cat and use the O2 sensors then there will be no need for an eliminator.

EGR mod (are you talking about changing the pressure lines around on the TPDF sensor?). If you hook up the egr to any runner you are garanteed not to get any check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the leads.

I plan on using SVT cat and SVT flex pipe. I attached an exploded view of the current fitting. I live in an emmitions county in Ohio, so I have to have operational system with no check eng. lights.

Magnus can you tell me more about the tpdf and runner? Not sure I understand.

I like the m22 fitting and would love to ditch the household plumbing :). May just cut off existing fitting and go that route. I have PLENTY of time.
 

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