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Originally written up by Tbones00SE

Some pics are missing, but everything else seems to be in order. Please let a Mod know and we'll correct it.

Lift the front of the car safely by using jack-stands or ramps. Make sure to block the rear wheels from in front and behind to keep it from rolling. A brick in front and behind the tire will work well.

Next DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE! You’ll be removing the battery soon so you might as well do it now.

Start by removing:

Upper intake pipe (to access EGR)

Just use a flathead screwdriver to unhook the pipe from the TB and the MAFS

Battery and battery box (also gets in the way of the EGR)

The battery is held down by a strap. The box is held down by three 13mm bolts (one in the left back and two on the right bottom)

Header heat shield

Two 8mm screws on top and two on the front of the shield

Unplug the O2 sensors from their harnesses

Now unhook the Power steering line from its clamps on each side of the header. You will feel a good deal of slack once the clamps have been removed. Leave the P/S line slack for now; you will be moving it later to keep it off the header.

Take the brackets off of the catalytic converter. There in one in the front of the motor and one on the bottom behind the oil pan. When I did the install I already had a Focus Central ORP in place of the stock cat so you’re pretty much on your own with these.

Unbolt the cat from the flange connecting it to the flex pipe. At this point it would be a good idea to either have a buddy under the car holding the cat so it doesn’t just drop on the ground or do like I do and put an old pillow under it to cushion the fall. Start by disconnecting the EGR from the cat with the 12” adjustable wrench. I’ve found that working the EGR free from under the car is the best way to go at it. Unbolt the cat from the header. Now you can either use the 12” adjustable or an O2 sensor removal socket to take the O2 sensors off. Keep the sensors close by as they will go back on the SVT kit.

Now unbolt the header from the head. There are 6 10mm bolts and three studs with 13mm nuts on them. Use a gasket scraper and a 3M finishing pad to clean off the old gasket residue from the head.

Remove the stock oil dipstick. The dipstick is bolted to the head by one bolt and can be pulled right out of the block after it is unbolted.

Unbolt the EGR. I found the disconnecting the EGR valve (that flying saucer looking thing the EGR goes into) is the best way to unbolt the pipe. Pull the DPFE hoses off. Now just finagle the EGR pipe out of the engine bay. Replace with the new Ford Racing EGR pipe. (Replacement is the opposite of removal) Note: if your DPFE sensor is not firewall mounted it will be right under the MAFS. You will need to get some hoses to attach the sensor to the new DPFE bungs. I used the DPFE hoses from the 2.0L SPI Focus; they are about 13” long and can be cut to fit.

Drop the fans off of the radiator. There are two harnesses plugged into the top of the fan, unplug these. Then there are two clips (one on each top corner) that you unclip. The fans are now free. You need to do this to mount the heat shield. I would seriously recommend using the heat shield for both its performance (lower under hood temps) and aesthetic (the header will appear “rusted” over time as the stainless steel is pretty low grade.

Put the new gasket on the studs followed by the header and finger-tighten the nuts on the studs slightly so the header doesn’t fall off. Now screw on the EGR pipe. Finish bolting up the header.

Install the new SVT dipstick. Just jam it in the hole and bolt it in place.

Install the heat shield. There are 4 8mm bolts for the top (those weird looking knobs on each runner are for the heat shield bolts) and 2 8mm bolts for the front.

Replace the radiator fans.

Now you will pull the power steering line out of the way. Pull the line to the left and put it behind the upper radiator hose located there and zip tie it in place. Make sure the line isn’t touching the heat shield. Actually, my upper radiator hose very slightly rubs the heat shield and after 3 weeks, 2 3+ hour drives, and a day of 11 consecutive dyno runs I haven’t seen a slight bit of damage to the hose from heat. The heat shield works extremely well. In fact, you can’t really feel much radiant heat from the headers until you place your hand about 1” away from the shield. The shield should protect both hoses and your radiators from the heat of the header.

Bolt in the ORP or Hi-Flow Cat between the header and the flex pipe.

Screw the O2 sensors into the ORP or Hi-Flow. Remember that the white sensor goes first then the blue. Now plug the sensors into the stock harnesses by utilizing the O2 sensor extension harnesses. It will be necessary to break the tabs off of the stock plugs to fit in the extension harnesses. If you are using an O2 cheater it will be necessary to plug it in between the sensor plug and the extension plug. The cheater goes on the SECOND O2 sensor. I also zip-tied the extensions and such with a little bit of slack for motor movement so they weren’t drooping down into the road and all its nastiness (don’t need to be dunking them in puddles if we don’t have to.)

Replace the upper intake pipe.

Replace the battery.

Crank the car over and hear your wonderful new exhaust note. Your car will need about 5 minutes to relearn idle (so I have found) so just leave the car running WITHOUT revving the engine for those 5 minutes. Then go out and beat her to hell.


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