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Discussion Starter #1
So I purchased some Russell SS Brake Lines a little while ago and also picked up some ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid so I could prep myself for some track days later in the summer.

I have a seized driver front caliper and passenger rear caliper. I currently have about 40k miles on my current brake/pad setup with the original calipers.

I just purchased some Centric Premium Blanks paired up with Hawk HPS pads front and back along with Reman'd Centric Calipers all around.

So with my full brake job ahead of me I just wanted to clear some things up...

Do I need to adjust anything Clutch related while doing the brake job and bleeding brakes at the end?

I have read on here and the Jet that I will have to bleed the clutch master cylinder after bleeding the brakes and other post/threads state that they are not related and while doing the brakes, I won't have to bother with the clutch MC at all.

I am fully capable of performing the task of a brake job, but are there any pointers you guys have before I get busy? Parts won't be here until next week, so I'm not in a terrible rush.

Thanks[thumb]
 

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I would probably bleed the clutch slave also because you'll have new fluid for everything then. You really don't have to, but while you're in there might as well do it.
 

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Hello ProSilver... I see you're in upstate NY. I'm in Greene, near Binghamton. Today I've been installing my Russell SS brake lines. Put on the Centric rotors last month along with Hawk pads. Quite a coincidence.

The front brake lines look shorter than the stock. I'm also wondering whether or how to transfer the rubber rings from the stock flex lines to the new ones. Any ideas?

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Eric,
I have read on the forums that the Russell SS Lines are short and when the car is raised and the wheel is at full extension the lines get tight. I have also read that the part to connect to the strut in the front is useless.

I was trying to figure out what to do so I could attach these to the strut, transferring the OEM rubber rings sounds like it would be a good idea. Let me know if you have any other ideas. I probably won't get my setup installed for another week or so.

BTW, I am located just south of Oneonta in Delhi, NY. We've probably seen eachother [headbang]. Let me know how the rest of your install goes. [thumb]
 

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Sounds like those lines are junk if they don't fit properly. I hate hack aftermarket crap thats like that. Good they work out for ya but I don't know how hard you need to beat on this thing to get the brakes to fade. My frpp rigors and ebc pads feel great and even in the hills I get very little fade. You do NOT NEED to bleed the clutch. They share a reservoir - that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would probably bleed the clutch slave also because you'll have new fluid for everything then. You really don't have to, but while you're in there might as well do it.
Since I am doing new Super Blue fluid I want to make sure I get all the old DOT3 fluid out, so I will be flushing the slave cylinder as well.[headbang]

Sounds like those lines are junk if they don't fit properly. I hate hack aftermarket crap thats like that. Good they work out for ya but I don't know how hard you need to beat on this thing to get the brakes to fade. You do NOT NEED to bleed the clutch. They share a reservoir - that's it.
I don't think the lines are junk, quite a few members are using them and aside from them being a tad short and having a front mount issue (with some creative thinking it looks like an easy fix) they don't seem to be too bad.

I WILL need to bleed the clutch because, like stated above, I will be changing to DOT4 and I don't want the DOT3 that is in the reservoir for the clutch to mix in with the ATE Super Blue.
 

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I would probably bleed the clutch slave also because you'll have new fluid for everything then. You really don't have to, but while you're in there might as well do it.

The brakes and the clutch draw fluid from the same reservoir.
So you should always bleed them together. And when swapping fluids you absolutely have to bleed both.
 

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The brakes and the clutch draw fluid from the same reservoir.
So you should always bleed them together. And when swapping fluids you absolutely have to bleed both.
That's my bad...I thought you had ate in the car already. I agree with iminhell to flush both when doing a fluid swap. That's why I like the super blue because it's available in 2 colors. Makes it easy to know when you're getting fresh fluid :).
 

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DOT 3 and 4 are both glycol based hydroscopic (absorb water) fluids. DOT 4 was Europes standard because the minimum dry boiling temp was 450 F .... DOT 3s was 400. They are completely compatible although I will agree a periodic fluid change is a good thing. Just keep in mind you cannot use silicon based fluids like DOT 5 .
I'm curious what the dry boiling point of this super blue is... Motocraft DOT 3 boils at 550 F, its some of the best glycol based fluid you can buy..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Motorcraft High Performance DOT 3
Dry Boiling Point - 500F
Wet Boiling Point - 284F

ATE Super Blue DOT 4
Dry Boiling Point - 536F
Wet Boiling Point - 388F

Just did a quick search and came up with the above numbers.

I only spent about 5 minutes glancing through a few forums, but it seems like the Motorcraft was reformulated from 550F to 500F...

Some sites say 550F while others say 500F.[scratch]
 

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It's 550, I get my information from the manufacturer. If anything I'd say spend the extra $ for a better wet boiling point but who is concerned enough to buy braided lines and flush fluid often has no need to be concerned about saturated fluid.

Dyed brake fluid scares me. If you came to my shop with dyed fluid i would refuse to service it. Once I touch the brakes its my ass if something fails... And I've seen too many people put too much *insert wrong fluid here* to trust it. Just $.02
 
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