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I have been getting a good bit of PM asking about my Tuning so I thought I would post here

I sell the SCT X4 Flasher , Full Custom Tune , Free unlimited Lifetime Tune updates as you add more NA mods , Datalogging , US shipped for 462.00

NA or Boosted ( Boosted Tune cost more )

Engine Tune you will see better over all daily driveability , better performance , most say better MPG

Let me know if you have any questions


Tom
 

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Will it get rid of the horrid bog mine has I cant even rev match it .That is one of my biggest complaints with my svt my 03 zx3 would eat it alive off the bottom and it rev matches perfectly
 

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Will it get rid of the horrid bog mine has I cant even rev match it .That is one of my biggest complaints with my svt my 03 zx3 would eat it alive off the bottom and it rev matches perfectly
I've also heard that Tom's Tune helps bolster the bottom end. What I did to get rid of the laggy throttle feel is swap the OEM thermoplastic throttle body to a billet aluminum CFM throttle body kit (67mm?). It's slightly oversized from stock and comes with a revised throttle linkage that makes it work and feel a whole lot better than OEM. I also put a CFM throttle body on a 2000 Focus SE sedan with the slushbox tranny/DOHC 2.0 engine, and it really helped the the tip-in response that car up too
 

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I've heard those TBs help out alot too I'm also gonna put an aluminum flywheel in it so with those 3 things I would hope it should help lol thanks for the input I'm new to these svts n what they react best to
 

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I've heard those TBs help out alot too I'm also gonna put an aluminum flywheel in it so with those 3 things I would hope it should help lol thanks for the input I'm new to these svts n what they react best to
If you've only had it a short while, I'd be looking at the wear parts/bushings/torque mounts...etc., and make sure those are all up to snuff...pretty cheap to replace most of that stuff and dead easy to DIY.

I've had mine since new in '03 and drove it stock for a long time before starting to address the Ford OEM oversights in car, such as the TB/laggy throttle/linkage issues, ropy long-throw shifter, soft rear 'dogbone' torque mount (negatively impacts shifting during spirited driving), and my SVT brakes, while decent lacked feel, even though they'd been bled properly (Russell braided brake lines kit firmed up my pedal and synthetic higher-temp brake fluid restored control feel and braking confidence). I did all my upgrades piecemeal as I didn't have any $$ to spend on grins, so I tried to figure out what would be my best bang4buck to improve driveability, safety, and fun.


If I were just starting out, I'd check the rear engine/tranny torque mount to see if it's been replaced already, as well as the swaybar mounts/bushings front/rear as that will make a world of difference for you to get a stiffer, high-quality urethane bushings and 'dogbone' rear torque mount in there. I think I bought the CFM item for that too and Prothane street bushings for swaybars when the rubber OEM disintegrated. The TB swap is a must in my book for throttle feel and better response/breathing across the range, and if your brakes aren't quite what you expected from those 'dinner plate rotors', swap to braided lines and upgrade the fluid before you try to add fancy rotors/pad combos...it's a LOT cheaper and fixes the flexy squishiness in the OEM rubber lines.

Something to seriously consider if you are gonna do a clutch/flywheel mod/replace is adding a limited-slip diff while you are in there since OEM is an open differential which becomes a major hindrance to getting the power to the pavement at times, and is a serious design oversight for the SVT performance model. There are several discussions you can read about the different types of LSDiffs in these forums. I'd personally like to get a Wavetrac, which is the newest gear-driven design (and doesn't lose power if one wheel is off the groundo_O;) like the older designs do), but I'd def get something in there if I took it apart to swap clutch/flywheel, etc. You can find some deals online for the older style LSD's, clutch kits and maybe save a few hundred off the Wavetrac too. CFM has a good deal on the LUK replacement clutch kit, which is an upgraded version of the OEM clutch/flywheel setup, just FYI if you are shopping. When I need to swap my clutch out the first time (soon) I'm going to use the LUK upgraded version and install the LSDiff for maximum impact/safety/fun.

I've never gotten around to buying a tune yet, but that's mainly just $$ budgeting/priorities on my end, and trying to eliminate the weak links on the car first. One thing I recently did was buy a capacitor/grounding kit specifically to try to address and balance out the inherent electrical struggle-fest that my SVT alternator/charging system seems to exist in. It was inexpensive and seems to work quite well, and my car has never felt better orf more responsive to the throttle input than it does now, go figure! I hope you enjoy your SVT half as much as I have over the years, and get all the niggles fixed on it so you can really appreciate how good it really is.
 

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I've heard those TBs help out alot too I'm also gonna put an aluminum flywheel in it so with those 3 things I would hope it should help lol thanks for the input I'm new to these svts n what they react best to
No the TB does not add a lot at all if any to the performance , some say better throttle response , if your changing the Fly Whl for performance dont it wont add any , The best things for performance , 180 deg thermostat , drop in filter , 3 inch Exh from header back , My Tune will be the biggest things other then Turbo

Tom
 

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No the TB does not add a lot at all if any to the performance , some say better throttle response , if your changing the Fly Whl for performance dont it wont add any , The best things for performance , 180 deg thermostat , drop in filter , 3 inch Exh from header back , My Tune will be the biggest things other then Turbo

Tom
I can attest to the larger TB from CFM gives the SVT much crisper throttle response, especially at tip-in, and partial throttle situations. You won't feel overwhelmed by a diff at WOT by changing it, but it is less restrictive than OEM, so the more beneficial 'flow' upgrades you do to the induction/exhaust systems, just like Tom recommends, will also net you better results in overall feel and performance. I found it interesting Tom says don't do the aluminum flywheel, as I had also read/heard that the lightweight aluminum ones tend to chatter a whole lot more than the OEM flywheel does. Any comments there, Tom?
 

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Well thank you for the input I'm just tryin to get the best bang for my buck out of it .I love the way the car drives and feels just the lack of power needs addressed
 

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So Tom you wouldnt recommend an after market CAI ? Just a drop in?
I've seen that same recommendation several times prior, both from Tom and others on different forums also. The stock airbox breathes fine, so the drop-in filter just increases airflow through an already good airbox system and sets you up for success with other mods. It's already got both the snorkle and the ram-air functionality to get cooler air to the intake. I thought about replacing it with a CAI (shiny!), but I wanted bang for buck more than pretty to look at. One thing to keep in mind is that the Mass Airflow Sensor is literally mounted right behind the filter, so an oiled filter can create problems for you down the road. I bought my K&N drop-in oiled filter long time ago and had some issues with the MAF signal a while later from accumulation on the the MAF sensor; easy to correct, just a pain, so I'd recommend a dry filter rather than oiled in this application. I already had the oiled K&N, so I just adopted annual cleanings of my K&N filter and use very, very little oil on it. It's been great since. You will notice a slight increase in power/response with a good drop-in filter, and like Tom says, the bigger gains come from tuning it and a less restrictive exhaust.

Seriously, if you are trying to work on a budget, do the low hanging fruit first; a good drop-in filter and a Tom's Tune. Forgoing the flywheel and a new TB upfront, you could be in a tuned car running optimally. The nice thing about the tune is Tom will upgrade it for you anytime you add more power mods, so if power/fun/drivability is your priority, go for that easy fix and circle back on the other stuff later.
 

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Yeah I've seen here on the forum that Tom is the SVT whisperer lol .I'm an old school v8 guy foxbodys n my big block trucks .But I've always had a thing for sport compacts too though .Back in early 2000s i raced a 90 Acura integra .So I'm gettin back into the compacts with this SVT 2nd threw 4th in this car pulls like a freight train I just cant wait to get it pullin off the bottom .I guess I'm just used to the honda motors it really didnt lack anywhere lol but thank you for the helpful info the holidays are over now n it's time to start the build on this EAP
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes drop in air filter , 180 deg thermostat , Motorcraft SP463 plugs , My Custom Tune is going to be the biggest gains

Tom
 

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Ok good to know I was going to buy an aftermarket CAI .And I cant find those spark plugs at any of the part stores in my area said they are discontinued
 

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When in doubt, Google search part # (near me). Lots of local and online stores carry these in stock, even Amazon has 'em, but prices do vary widely. I found that Advance Auto stocks the Motorcraft SP463 plugs for $2.99/each. They also tend to have good online codes/coupons for 20-25% off with a $25 min purchase...pretty easy to get there getting the basics for the car. I just bought a new AGM battery for my son's Audi Q7 (one freaking big, hulking battery) and saved $50 using their pickup in store option w/online code/coupon.

I hadn't heard about these copper plugs being a good benefit except in relation to the forced induction motors, so I'm going to give them a try also....thanks for the hot-tip, Tom! Saving my pennies for your tune, I am....no, I really am...someday (sigh) LOL!
 

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Be sure to post an update after you get 'em in the car. I found that the 80-degree thermostat Tom's recommending is low cost as well (don't forget the gasket as some come with but most don't)
 
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