Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
R.I.P Kona
Joined
·
12,868 Posts
Never seen anything like that. Doesn't look like it'd do much since it's not capturing any air and directing the air towards the rotor/caliper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Never seen anything like that. Doesn't look like it'd do much since it's not capturing any air and directing the air towards the rotor/caliper.
The example bracket is feeding cool air to the tight space between the brake caliper and the strut tower/knuckle. The idea is that you want to feed cool air evenly into the center of the rotor to allow the momentum of the rotor veins to draw the cool air between the two pieces.

Some brake air cooling kits feed cool air to just one side of the rotor which I don't like.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,625 Posts
Example:


Does anyone make a cooling bracket for the SVTs?
Pointless

#1 are you really heating up your rotors enough to need a cooling mod?

#2 this design wouldn't work for if the wheels were straight then the little scoop would not have any air being forced down its tube as the tube would be pointing the opposite direction of wind travel.

#3 looks like ass



If you want better brake performance.

#1 get bigger calipers + slotted Rotors

#2 get a floating setup....big money

#3 you can pop out the caliper pistons sand and with fine grit sand paper sand and polish them to reduce brake drag.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
#1 are you really heating up your rotors enough to need a cooling mod?

#2 this design wouldn't work for if the wheels were straight then the little scoop would not have any air being forced down its tube as the tube would be pointing the opposite direction of wind travel.

#3 looks like ass



If you want better brake performance.

#1 get bigger calipers + slotted Rotors

#2 get a floating setup....big money

#3 you can pop out the caliper pistons sand and with fine grit sand paper sand and polish them to reduce brake drag.
So far the feedback I've gotten from this thread make it clear I will have to make my own air cooling bracket. I'll see what I can do to have one made.

To answer your questions/statements

-------------------

Pointless
#1 Yes I really do heat up my brakes high enough to benefit from additional directed cooling.

#2 The photo I posted is only an example bracket, not the system. The system requires an air inset and tubing which is simple to install. Making the bracket is the tricky part.

Inlet - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3623
Hose - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3631

#3 The system will be hardly noticeable if installed correctly.

-------------------

If you want better brake performance.

#1 The standard SVT rotors have enough bit to suite my needs, the problem is keeping them cool long enough.

Here is what I'm currently running.

Brake Setup:
Front & Rear - Russell Stainless Brake Line Kit
Front - EBC Front Dipled/Slotted Rotors and Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads
Rear - Centric Rotors and Pads



#2 I'm not familiar with a floating setup.

#3 I don't think standing the calipers pistons is a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Don't want to burst your bubble, but I have tried countless ways to add brake ducts to my track SVT over the past 6 years with no success. I have saved dozens of photos similar to the one you posted from various cars, to see if they could be adapted to the SVT, with no solution.
There is just no available real estate to mount ducts without interfering with the half shafts, tie rods, sway bar links or wheels.

I have tried Mini Cooper brake scoops:

Performance Brake Cooling System Upgrade Kit - R50

Worked great as long as you never turn the steering wheel as the lower trailing edge of the wheel hits the scoop where the duct mounts. Everything looked great up in the air in full droop though.
Might work with 18 or 19 inch wheels but I wouldn't bet on it.

Any type of duct (hose) mounted on top of the control arm will contact the outer CV joint boot if it is larger than ~1.25" and it will point directly at the ball joint. I looked into large silicone hoses that could be flattened and cut away to surround the ball joint and provide air to the center of the rotor, but couldn't get it to work for more than a couple of sessions before it was torn up by the half shaft.

Intake Pipe Reducer

Ducts mounted below the control arm might work, but must be a small diameter to miss the wheel and will be pointed at the bottom of the disk instead of the center. Not sure that would help much due to the small diameter required but that is my next plan if I try adding ducts in the future.

Ducts mounted on the front or rear of the control arm will be too far away to work since you must account for turning the steering wheel. Anything close enough to work with the wheels straight will tear up the end of the duct/rip it off the control arm when the wheel is turned.

If you are wanting this for track use, ditch the HP Plus pads and get some real track pads that can take the heat.
I run Cobalt XR3's on the front and XR5's on the rear with stock SVT rotors. This compound is close to the specs for Hawk DTC30's. Which you can see operate at much higher temperatures than the HP Plus.
Compound Graph | Hawk Performance

The pads work well and last 15 to 20+ days on track, depending on the tracks. The stock front rotors will go three years or so before a heat check crack goes all the way through. Never had an issue with rear rotors.

My track SVT had Centric slotted rotors when I purchased it and I hated the fttt-fttt-fttt sound under braking. I ran them until they cracked, then used Ford rotors. If I wasn't so cheap I'd have pitched the Centrics after the first day on track.

With Ford rotors, Cobalt pads and Russell SS lines(they were on the car when I got it), there are very few drivers that can out brake me. I often joke that the SVT does most of it's acceleration under braking, as I can brake later and harder than most drivers to close up the gaps they make on me under acceleration.

The only heat related issues I've found from high brake temperatures is killing the front and rear wheel bearings. I just decided to replace the bearings after a season and a half to keep from having bearing failures at the track.

I carry spare loaded front knuckles, rear hubs, rear spindles, rear ABS rings and hub nuts in case of bearing failure. I also carry calipers and caliper brackets. With these parts on hand, if a bearing goes bad I can swap parts and not miss a session. There is nothing more frustrating than sourcing SVT Focus parts near a track on a weekend and then finding a 20 ton press to replace the bearings.
Never had boiled fluid or had any brake fade with my set up.

A two piece rotor would be beneficial to combat rotor heat getting to the bearings, since aluminum conducts less heat than iron, but no one has made a direct replacement for the SVT rotor.
I've test fit the two piece 13" rotor/hat and 6 piston caliper from the Wilwood Mustang SN95 kit I have on a SVO. It would need a custom hat and caliper bracket to work. I am certain that would reduce bearing heat and due to the size of the rotors, a duct would probably fit as well. However the cost of the custom parts isn't worth it to me at this point.

msperber has ducts on his race car but I haven't seen detailed photos of the routing.
 

·
w/ my magic bag
Joined
·
29,468 Posts
If your heating the brakes to that exstent, I'd be looking at a bbk. Baer can set you up w/ their kit which is basicley the cobra set up. As a option they also offer 2 piece rotors that are about 1/2 the weight as one piece rotors & they look & hold up great.
 

·
R.I.P Kona
Joined
·
12,868 Posts
Felix, you g it a link to the Baer kit?

I like that Mini Cooper brake cooling kit. The scoop could be reworked to not interfere with the tires.
 

·
w/ my magic bag
Joined
·
29,468 Posts
Felix, you g it a link to the Baer kit?

I like that Mini Cooper brake cooling kit. The scoop could be reworked to not interfere with the tires.
IIRC, Andysautosport had them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
So, it's time to head back to the track very soon to my favorite track Watkins Glen to instruct with the BMWCCA and after roasting the left front wheel bearing I found a solution that will work for us. It comes from across the pond and can be found at your local Porsche dealers. ShlbyGT I think you might find the diverters helpful as I learned on the focaljet that several members have been using them successfully. They work so well that you need to keep them off to bed in a new set of pads as they pads don't come up to temp enough. I ordered a set not for the brake cooling, but for the value they offer in extending the life of the wearable parts like a wheel bearing. Once I have it mounted I'll post pics.

Here is the link from the focaljet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Those look useful, functional & simple - Nice!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top