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GO Green
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Discussion Starter #1
So Im thinking about maybe getting the strut tower brace and or the lower stress bar. I know the strut braces seem to do minimal improvements according to many on the forums, so I was really looking at the lower stress bar, which people have said provides a good improvement. My question is if I get any of these will I need to get an alignment again? I just had my svt suspension and new tires put on today and right after got an alignment? I wouldnt think the strut braces would so much but since you need to disconnect the control arms for the lower stress bar would that throw off the alignment?

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PARTS HUNTER
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There is no adjustments for alignment where the stress bars bolt up. So no need to realign
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Try CFM's 4-point lower stress bar= similar to HT-performance's. I upgraded my FSwerk's 2-pointer w/ CFM's 4-pointer. The lower is going to be a lot more noticable than the strut tower one. You will find the bolt's for the lca go thru the front w/ the nut's on the back, so yes you will have to remove the bolt to install. If you have poly bushing's or CFM's tubular control arm's not so much, but if you have the stock bushing's, I'd say yes check the toe.
 

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GO Green
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Discussion Starter #4
Posted via FF Mobile Anyone else positive about checking the toe? Anyway around this? What if I take one bolt out at a time instead of disconnecting both at once?
 

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Premium Member
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I noticed more of a difference after installing the rear strut tower brace... It's really squirrely in wet weather now. I'd like to get thicker sway bars and see how that goes.
 

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GO Green
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Discussion Starter #6
Posted via FF Mobile Well I hust read something on focaljet after googling fswerks stress bar and some guy said he had installation issues with the lower stress bar. He said the autotrans was in the way. I left a message with fswerks on facebook to confirm, but this is something I wanted to install myself. Others have said the lower bar does the most with improvements and helps with stability and turn precision. I too am thinking of ugrading the rear sway to the progress 22mm bar, unfortunatly it is not as available as it used to be and not as cheap. Itll probably make the most improvement, but I bet if I did that and threw on the lower front stress bar my car would behave noticablly differently. Its a daily driver and I only have the svt suspension, so Im not going to extreme, also because the control arms and other suspension compents are stock...dont need those braking.
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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Posted via FF Mobile Anyone else positive about checking the toe? Anyway around this? What if I take one bolt out at a time instead of disconnecting both at once?
The lower control arm bolts have no alignment adjustment. Just unbolt install the brace and torque the bolt down. The toe is messed with if u chance ur ride height or change tie rod ends(tie rods are where the toe is adjusted ). And the above post about the rear being squirly,it firms everything up and u can break traction easier in bad weather
 

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has a screw loose
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Posted via FF Mobile when I put the tower, upper rear and front lower and added a rear sway bar. I didn't get an alignment. But when I put on the adjustable toe and adjustable control arms , I did get an alignment and now my car sticks to the road like glue.
 

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GO Green
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11,148 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Posted via FF Mobile when I put the tower, upper rear and front lower and added a rear sway bar. I didn't get an alignment. But when I put on the adjustable toe and adjustable control arms , I did get an alignment and now my car sticks to the road like glue.


Posted via FF Mobile Nice, yea I asked Fswerks and they said they had no issues with auto trans equipped cars and no alignment necessary. What specs are you guys adjusting your cars too? The other day I gave the shop a list of specs, the ones from the alignment sticky and they tried their best to put them in. The guy said because its laser percise it looks like its uneven on the spec sheet, but its really not and that the whole thing is touchy. I thought rear camber was adjustable, theres even a spec for it in the sticky? The guy said no. My drivers side rear is at -.08 and the passanger side is 0.0. ,but I guess it cant be fixed without adjustable rear camber bolts. Will this spec be a big problem? Or if as long as I keep up with rotating tires will it be fine?

Heres the specs they did. Btw they is Mavis.

Original:
Front Camber: -0.3 degress/ 0.3 degrees
Front Toe: -0.62 degrees/ -0.81 degrees (this would explain the extreme right pull I had).
Rear Camber: -0.8 degrees/ 0.0 degrees
Rear Toe: -0.13 degrees/ 0.04 degrees

New:
Camber for front and rear stay the same.
Front Toe: 0.00 degrees/ -0.01 degrees
Rear Toe: 0.05 degrees/ 0.04 degrees.

What are your thoughts?
 

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has a screw loose
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I don't have my print out sheet with me off hand , but I got the Massive adjustable control arms and toe arms . But my braces are all FSwerks except for my rear sway bar and its the Steeda universal.

But my alignment specs are set at the recommended factory specs and I've not had any problems with alignment issues or uneven tire wear .
 

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GO Green
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Discussion Starter #11
Posted via FF Mobile So do I need camber bolts and plates or no?
 

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slow
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^^ I would think you'll be ok with those alignment results.
 

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has a screw loose
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Posted via FF Mobile So do I need camber bolts and plates or no?

I had to use camber bolts on mine but when I got the adjustable toe/control arms I no longer needed them .
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Thou's # are great, no need for camber bolt's. ^^^^
 
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