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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for some spit balled ideas on whats going on here so I can work on them this weekend.

The car is a 2003 Ford Focus SE PZEV (2.3L Duratec). We did some work on it this last Sunday and replaced the connector rod bearings on cylinder 2 because they spun again. Yes, I know this is bad and the engine isn't going to last, we're just trying to keep it running until it totally dies. We put everything back together and filled it up with oil and she ran better than she did last time we replace the bearings (progress?).

The owner drove it for half a day and now the engine has a STRONG vibration. No noises coming from the engine, just shaking the whole car really bad. This happens at all RPMS, driving or in neutral. The vibration gets stronger with higher RPM (more accurately, the oscillation frequency increases with higher RPM's). This is a manual and the vibration happens in neutral and when the clutch is disengaged, so its not tranny/drive-line related.

I've seen a lot of people mention this could be the engine mounts, but most of them only mention their vibration issue is happening at idle, and I'm not sure if they are this dramatic. It doesn't seem like a misfire, but I could be wrong. I'm not sure if there are any common things to check for with this engine/config, given the car isn't throwing any codes.

The only thing related to my repair that I could think of is the bearing possibly spun again and now the 2 bearings are under one side of the connector rod, making the whole thing lop sided on the crank shaft. I don't think this is technically possible, especially with no more engine tick, but I'm not going to rule it out given whats happening.

Another thing I'm guessing at is to check if the harmonic balancer, or the crankshaft position sensor is bad. Advice on how to check these would be appreciated.

Let me know what you guys think. Just want some ideas to make my life a little easier.

Thanks in advanced
-Jayce
 

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For most of the engine mounts, you can visually inspect them to see if they are shot and they are pretty easy to access. One is under the airbox/snorkel (wich can all be taken out as one piece) and another under the coolant reservoir. For the one under the airbox, look at a new one to see what it looks like so you can see if yours is collapsed. The one under the coolant tank contains fluid so you can see if that is still intact. The dogbone mount has to be inspected from under the car and it connects to the transmission to keep it from rotating. Not sure if this is your problem but when I replaced mine, all the vibrations I was having went away.
 

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The engine is dead and your pitiful efforts have made sure of it. The shake comes from the bearing again spinning.

'The only thing related to my repair that I could think of is the bearing possibly spun again and now the 2 bearings are under one side of the connector rod, making the whole thing lop sided on the crank shaft. I don't think this is technically possible, especially with no more engine tick, but I'm not going to rule it out given whats happening.'

Absolutely possible and many of them do it, the bearing is doubled up in normal use, when it spins the one simply slides under the other to again be the same thickness but they are not. The piston/rod then goes wildly out of balance.

You don't get it, once a bearing spins in a rod the rod 9 times out of 10 will spin a new bearing again and quick, it is damaged at the bore from the bearing skidding inside it and there is no crush any longer to hold the bearing in place.

Engine is junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The engine is dead and your pitiful efforts have made sure of it. The shake comes from the bearing again spinning.

'The only thing related to my repair that I could think of is the bearing possibly spun again and now the 2 bearings are under one side of the connector rod, making the whole thing lop sided on the crank shaft. I don't think this is technically possible, especially with no more engine tick, but I'm not going to rule it out given whats happening.'

Absolutely possible and many of them do it, the bearing is doubled up in normal use, when it spins the one simply slides under the other to again be the same thickness but they are not. The piston/rod then goes wildly out of balance.

You don't get it, once a bearing spins in a rod the rod 9 times out of 10 will spin a new bearing again and quick, it is damaged at the bore from the bearing skidding inside it and there is no crush any longer to hold the bearing in place.

Engine is junk.
I do get it and you don't have to be an ass about it. I'm fully aware that when you spin a bearing, the engine is almost always doomed to fail without re-journaling/replacing the crank. This is a junker Tboned car and I could give the lesser half of a shit if it dies. Just want cheap fixes to make it last until blows up. After the first bearings went out, we just swapped them, checking the scroll for marks or warping and it seemed fine enough.

I'm not saying you are wrong, but I wanted to hear if there was any other known issues that can cause this kind of vibration. The only reason I still have my doubts about the bearing is that there is absolutely no tick. The engine would previously tick (knocking incredibly loud the 2 times the bearings did spin) and with this issue, the noise is still gone.
 

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You'll notice a motor w/o issues, idling is going to be roughest at idle & as you know its a 4 cylinder so they'll be some shake.......Resize the rod or get another one that didn't have issues.....I take it....someone ran it low on oil....Pull the balance shaft off & plug the oil feed hole. The balance shaft has its own harmonics.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, running low happens when you're gambling (this was our gambler 500 car, but it managed to live). Stupid oil filter is the first thing you hit given it's front and center. I'll probably tear the bottom end apart and see if the bearings spun again. If they did, I guess she's doneskies.
 

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The only reason it isn't knocking is likely because the spin and bearing stackup ending location is now in the cap rather than the upper rod half. Give that some thought. One way the piston to head clearance increases hugely, the other way it does the opposite, it gets much tighter to hit almost right off the bat. The noise is the piston striking the head.
 
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