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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I just wanted to see if anyone had any input for the wierd actings of my '07 SES with a 2.0 duratec engine. The car has about 109K miles and still runs strong (Ford power baby; love it when gangbangers with Hondas find out the hard way what my car can do). I just got the alternator swapped a couple weeks ago, and all is good. However, I have noticed that since I replaced the alternator, upon a cold startup (even in 90+ degree weather) the engine will rev to 2000 rpm, then settle down to normal idle. Then, after driving and the engine is at op temp, when I start her she just revs up slightly and settles to idle like normal. Is there a sensor or something I may have knocked loose?

Also, I have some suspension squeeks. I know the 'popping' under my feet when I turn or hit bumps is bad sway bark end links (which are being replaced soon), but I have also noticed that when I go to apply the brake while driving, the car will sometimes shake in the front, especially in the steering and near my feet. And this happens randomly; sometimes I apply the brake and everything comes to a stop smoothly. Now, I friend of mine and myself recently replaced the front pads, but we have not replaced the rotors. Idk if these are the factory rotors or not, but could they cause this wierd shaking? There's also a slight squeek in the rear of the car. If I go and lean and push on it while it's parked, you can sometimes hear it. Like a dull metal against metal squeek. Is there a routine suspension part that needs replaced which can squeek in the rear end?

Lastly, AFAIK the current fuel filter is the same one from the factory. Idk if it has ever been swapped. I'm thinking of going ahead and replacing it. Is this hard to do?

I appreciate all the help everyone!
 

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The squeak in the rear is probably the e brake cable runs thru a holder that wears the coating off the cable and they make noise.I cut a oil container strip of plastic and wrapped it around the cable were it goes thru the holder,the front rotors are probably warped or low tire pressure will make the steering wheel shake.The end links will clunk when hitting bumps and turning.fuel filter is located pass side in front of rear wheel change after cars been sitting for a few hours to let the fuel pressure in the system drop there is two clips that you need to pull 1 the thicker one pulls out about an1/8 to 1/4 inch the other one pulls out be careful this ones brittle.On the idle mine does the same thing and its never apart.
 

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The shaking when you brake would usually be from hot spots on your brake rotors from them cooling too quickly after being hot. But is they are new I may look into your wheel bearings. As for the revving that seems normal especially if your car is a stick, but you could check all your vacuum hoses, or you mass airflow sensor on your intake pipe to make sure its pushed in all the way
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input guys! I appreciate the help. Hopefully gonna tackle the end links sometime soon, then the rotors just to be safe. Also, I forgot to mention a noise. When cruising down the highway, when I hit about 60mph I get a loud humming from the right front. But, if I go faster or slower, the noise goes away. It only happens at 60 mph. I hope this isn't a wheel bearing...
 

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Did you have the rotors turned? Did you look at the wear indicator to see if the rotors were worn past their life? If not, that would answer why you have shaking sometimes when braking. The rotors are likely too old, too thin, and warped. You should see to determining this immediately, or you'll end up making a sharp turn to one side while braking one day when the rotor shatters. It's not pretty.

The idle revving up to 2k rpm after sitting overnight is normal. All engines must warm up. Back in the old days you had to pull out the choke or it wouldn't even start at all, then push it in once. If it was an automatic choke, it would rev to warm up until you either pressed the accelerator or the vacuum diaphragm pulled the choke off. Nowadays, engines just run at a bit higher rpm- and a bit richer, until a certain temperature is reached.

For your end links, I suggest checking out our Vendor Deals, Group Buys, and Special Discounts forum for the latest Rock Auto discount code. They have the best deals on most parts. IDK if I'd order rotors from them or not. Their prices are on par with what you can get rotors for at most parts stores- but you might be able to pay a value price for a premium rotor from a maker like Raybestos.

There's nothing strange about any of these- the car is just old. When you turn the key on one day and the wipers come on, but aren't switched on- and won't go off, and the radio is full blast- that's strange.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you have the rotors turned? Did you look at the wear indicator to see if the rotors were worn past their life? If not, that would answer why you have shaking sometimes when braking. The rotors are likely too old, too thin, and warped. You should see to determining this immediately, or you'll end up making a sharp turn to one side while braking one day when the rotor shatters. It's not pretty.

The idle revving up to 2k rpm after sitting overnight is normal. All engines must warm up. Back in the old days you had to pull out the choke or it wouldn't even start at all, then push it in once. If it was an automatic choke, it would rev to warm up until you either pressed the accelerator or the vacuum diaphragm pulled the choke off. Nowadays, engines just run at a bit higher rpm- and a bit richer, until a certain temperature is reached.

For your end links, I suggest checking out our Vendor Deals, Group Buys, and Special Discounts forum for the latest Rock Auto discount code. They have the best deals on most parts. IDK if I'd order rotors from them or not. Their prices are on par with what you can get rotors for at most parts stores- but you might be able to pay a value price for a premium rotor from a maker like Raybestos.

There's nothing strange about any of these- the car is just old. When you turn the key on one day and the wipers come on, but aren't switched on- and won't go off, and the radio is full blast- that's strange.
A rotor shattering sounds like no joy ride. I'll run out and check them out tomorrow morning first light. I appreciate all the feedback. Would a warped/old rotor cause the hum I'm hearing as well?
 
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