[TightAss]

Anyone else notice this little annoyance? Every time I start the car after filling the tank, the gas gauge shows less than full. It varies from 3/4 to 7/8 or so and the estimated miles to empty display shows only about 300-350 miles to empty, instead of around 400. After turning off the key and then starting for a second time, it will show completely full on the gauge.

This happens every time without fail. Not enough of an issue to take it to the dealer but, interesting I think.

Glad to say this is the only problem I have with 45k miles on my 2012! [loveff]

 

[PratoN]

There's a couple of TSB's for this that the dealer should apply for you:

TSB 13-12-4
AN INACCURATE DISTANCE TO EMPTY OR INACCURATE FUEL GAUGE INDICATION, ON SOME VEHICLES, AND ALSO THERE ARE MULTIPLE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) WITH ILLUMINATION OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

Here's a link to a post a while back - the 13-12-4 TSB is probably a more recent programming than the ones in the link:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/4363100-post15.html

 

[Squad-G]

There's a TSB for this that the dealer should apply for you:

TSB 13-12-4
AN INACCURATE DISTANCE TO EMPTY OR INACCURATE FUEL GAUGE INDICATION, ON SOME VEHICLES, AND ALSO THERE ARE MULTIPLE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) WITH ILLUMINATION OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

I believe it's just a reprogramming.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7KYDK8tigidWHdBazM3TGNoMkE

 

[RyanFromSC]

Yours tells you 400 miles after you fill up??? Mine always says 350-370 at most. I fill until it clicks off the pump. A strange thing I've noticed is the "miles to E" reading has 10 miles added to it every time i start the car. (ie, I cut it off @ 50 to E and next time it'll say 60 miles to e)

 

[TightAss]

Yours tells you 400 miles after you fill up??? Mine always says 350-370 at most. I fill until it clicks off the pump. A strange thing I've noticed is the "miles to E" reading has 10 miles added to it every time i start the car. (ie, I cut it off @ 50 to E and next time it'll say 60 miles to e)

The miles to E display is not perfect, it is calculated using the fuel gauge reading and your previous driving history. Overall, I find it to be fairly accurate though. I do a lot of freeway driving, maybe 70% and am getting 32.3 mph on the ave mph display (exactly in line with the average when I calculate it by the way). I've notice when I fill up after an hour freeway trip the miles to E will show a number 400+. If I fill up after city driving it will be more like 365 or so. No perfect but not bad though. Really just an indicator that you should get gas when the number gets low.

 

[TightAss]

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7KYDK8tigidWHdBazM3TGNoMkE

Thanks for the heads up on the TSB's, I will look into them but I doubt I will act on them for this minor issue. I'm always hesitant to do software upgrades unless I really need to. Really just curious how many others were noticing this.

Never been to the dealer yet and hope I don't have to in the future. If it works, don't fix it!

 

[Squad-G]

Thanks for the heads up on the TSB's, I will look into them but I doubt I will act on them for this minor issue. I'm always hesitant to do software upgrades unless I really need to. Really just curious how many others were noticing this.

Never been to the dealer yet and hope I don't have to in the future. If it works, don't fix it!

It's not just about software, but parts. You should do it. Just mention it on your next change of oil.

 

[TightAss]

It's not just about software, but parts. You should do it. Just mention it on your next change of oil.

Thanks for the advise but I don't think its necessary. I do my own oil changes and all other maint. I rarely come across a repair I cant handle as well, so I really don't go to dealers, unless I have a warranty repair that I think is worth having someone else work on my car for.

 

[PratoN]

It's not just about software, but parts. You should do it. Just mention it on your next change of oil.

Thanks for the advise but I don't think its necessary. I do my own oil changes and all other maint. I rarely come across a repair I cant handle as well, so I really don't go to dealers, unless I have a warranty repair that I think is worth having someone else work on my car for.

If you plan on doing it yourself, the TSB states that you might have to change the fuel tank if it's deformed - which isn't a cheap part ($500-$750). Not to mention the purge valve and pump are over $100 each (depends on what's not working correctly).

I could see doing it yourself if it were like $50 or just greasing some bushings, but I would totally let the dealer fix this under warranty. Just my 2 cents.

 

[wavsine]

If you plan on doing it yourself, the TSB states that you might have to change the fuel tank if it's deformed - which isn't a cheap part ($500-$750). Not to mention the purge valve and pump are over $100 each (depends on what's not working correctly).

I could see doing it yourself if it were like $50 or just greasing some bushings, but I would totally let the dealer fix this under warranty. Just my 2 cents.

Agree 100%. Fuel tank replacement is a big job and very expensive if not under warranty which begs the question: How were these tanks deformed in the first place? Ford would not be covering this under warranty if it was from impact damage by the customer. Were these tanks already deformed when they were installed at the factory?

 

[TightAss]

If you plan on doing it yourself, the TSB states that you might have to change the fuel tank if it's deformed - which isn't a cheap part ($500-$750). Not to mention the purge valve and pump are over $100 each (depends on what's not working correctly).

I could see doing it yourself if it were like $50 or just greasing some bushings, but I would totally let the dealer fix this under warranty. Just my 2 cents.

I don't think this is caused by a deformed tank, software would be my guess since a reset of the key switch fixes it first try every time, but anyway I plan to do nothing about it. I can totally live with it. On a problem scale of 1-10, it is a .01.