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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks...

I'm about to replace an inner tie rod on my granddaughter's 2010 Focus SE (I believe it's a MK2, correct me if I'm wrong). I was looking for appropriate tools and saw one economically priced, but it's labeled "Not for Saginaw style" steering units. I've done a little looking on line but there's not much definitive about what's Saginaw style and what's not.

Does anyone know if I have a Saginaw-style steering unit? It's the stock unit from the factory. I don't have much of a clue on this.

Thanks in advance.
 

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This issue had recently been discussed but I do not recall any mention of 'Saginaw' units. The issue with this generation of Focus has to do with fixed vs variable ratio steering racks. Read here:


I believe the PO was able to determine the type of rack by giving the VIN to a Ford dealer.

Paul
 

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Saginaw units are generally for GM cars and by 'style' they typically mean the bigger types cars used before racks became common. The big boxes that usually mounted to the end of steering columns. Normally where a FWD transmission sits.
 
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2004 ZX3 SVT EE 173k miles. 2004 ZX3 SVT 194k miles
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Clean the threads with alcohol and apply blue loctite. You can use a zip tie to clamp the bellows back on. Make sure you don't dislodge the vent tube.
 

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You can also use large vise grips to hold the steering rack while you break loose/tighten the inner tie rod nut. You don't want to torque on the rack itself while you break it loose or tighten it. If you do use a vice grips, apply it as far out on the end of the rack as possible.
 

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You can also use large vise grips to hold the steering rack while you break loose/tighten the inner tie rod nut. You don't want to torque on the rack itself while you break it loose or tighten it. If you do use a vice grips, apply it as far out on the end of the rack as possible.
Not necessary. Torque spec is 50lbs.
 

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i used to remove the opposite side boot and torque while holding that side and tightening on other end of rack when space was a consideration. No problems while torquing force over the entire rack itself.

Does anyone ever still use those pressed pins or allen setscrews to lock the outside tie collars any longer? Those used to be the pits when one would be facing away from you to not be able to get to it to remove it. If you simply unscrewerd the outside collar/coupling then the pin would trash your rack end threads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There's conflicting literature on this issue. I have the factory manual which states to put a suitably-sized wrench on the left rack extension of the steering unit to hold it in place while removing or torquing the left or right inner tie rod, except I never found an area on the rack to place a wrench. Also, evidently some models had inner tie rods that didn't have any flats on the rack end and called for the use of the tie rod tool with the set screws. Fortunately my model had the flats on the tie rod for the tool. I decided to take a chance on just removing and torquing the tie rods without a holding wrench on the rack after seeing a couple of YouTube videos show just that. It worked out well, but I sure would have liked a couple of flats on the rack for a large wrench. Nonetheless, it came off and went on to specified torque without any trauma to the rack.

Thanks to everyone for your input.
 
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