[slow-cus]

For those that have already experienced this repair on the Focus, I'm looking for additional "heads-ups" and tips before I try tackling this out in my apartment parkinglot this weekend....or trailering it to a repairshop. My 2003 needed a front brake job, and that quick task evolved into this headache when 3 of the 4 caliper/slide bolt holes stripped out. And so she sits....

PITA moments I've read about include CV shafts that won't seperate from the knuckle, as well as lowerball joints being just as stubborn. Anyone have other notes to share or hindsight wisdom? What irks me is that I had the wheel bearings replaced just last year (at Pep Boys)...and now I'll be getting them replaced again. I don't imagine anyone sells the hub and knuckle as an assembly, bearings and all - so I can avoid the whole pressing bearings situation?

Thanks in advance to any responses and shared wisdom!

 

[sparky34kv]

I actually just replaced the drivers side knuckle on a 2000 ZX3 that I had, about a year and a half ago. I got one from a junk yard, $90 and it took all of 45 minutes to replace. Nothing hung up when I did it, though I may have been lucky. I had looked into doing thread repair for the pins, but it is a hard thread pitch to find. While some people were against it, I really don't see a safety concern doing that if you can. The braking force is transferred to the knuckle, not the pins, so it would be okay to put a Helicoil in it if you could find one that wasn't a $40 set. Since the steering and suspension mating points are a taper fit you should'nt even have any steering or alignment issues to worry about. Just make sure the car is securely supports since you will be doing allot of pushing and pulling to remove and replace it. Please let us know how you make out.

 

[whynotthinkwhynot]

Helicoil if you can, and you have a drill to do it with.

Use a hammer and a block of wood to drive the control arm/ball joint out of the knuckle.
You'll need a torx T50 to hold the pinch bolt, and possibly a heavy duty 3 jaw puller to remove the CV axle. Do not bang on the end of the CV axle with a hammer so much that you mess up the threads on the end of the axle. If you are going to hit it hard, use a 2x4 to prevent damaging the threads. A tie rod end puller will save you some pain and suffering with the tie rod end, but you will need a sacrificial nut. On my car, the sway bar end link nuts were the same thread pitch.

Call your dealer and ask about loaded knuckles. I don't know for sure if the knuckles come with bearings, but Rock Auto has different part numbers for those with anti-lock brakes, and those without. This might have to do with the bearings.

MEF144----- FR w/o ABS
MEF145----- FR w/ABS
MEF146----- FL w/o ABS
MEF147----- FL w/ABS

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