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This will definitely fix it. I did another one last week and it only took me 20 min this time. I will be tearing apart the old units next week to see if I can fix them instead of paying $108 for a new one.
Still love my car! Beside the ignition, the only other problem I had was the 3rd position on the fan switch went bad. Got one online for $12. After 90k miles I still have original brakes and only on my second set of tires.
 

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Troubleshooting this ignition problem.

Start by removing top and bottom covers from steering column.

Disconnect starter switch wire connector (7 pin on left side of column).

Insert key and turn to ACC or first position.

You should have continuity between pins 5 and 6 on the starter switch.

If you do not have continuity, press in on key until you do.

If you only have continuity when you press in on the switch, the switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned.

Press in on four tabs and pull switch apart. CAUTION Do this in a shallow box because parts can fall out of switch.

Inside in the center of the switch, there will be a contact on a spring. Clean the top and especially the sides of this contact. You will see where it is discolored.

Next you will clean the ring around the center of the switch. ONce again, you should see some discoloration.

Snap everything back together, don't forget or loose the small ball.

Snap switch back onto assembly and retest.

A good switch should read continuity on pins 5 and 6 without having to push in on the key.

Switch part number is 98AB11572AH. I was unable to find the part from Ford.
I can only find used switches on Ebay.
 

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By the way, this fix is for the automatic transmission. Part is $108

I have not done a manual transmission, but since the part is only $34, I would replace the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Kev1900 The way I tested the starter switch was to not dis-assemble it. I just removed the starter switch from the steering column and plugged it back in to the seven pin connector. I then inserted a flathead screw driver into the slot in the starter switch and turned it as you would do a key. At the end of the turn it is spring loaded so turn it all the way. With the key in the run position, if the started switch is good, the car should start with the screw driver. Turn the key off to stop the engine. I drove the car this way for three days until the Ford part came in from the dealer.
 

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tHanks for the info been starting my slocus for the last 3 years WITH A SCREWDRIVER BECAUSE FORD DEALERSHIP WANTED TO CHARGE 700 $ TO FIX AFTER THEY "TROUBLESHOOT" THE PROBLEM I HAVE AT LEAST FIVE EXTRA STARTER SWITCHES THANKS FOR THE HELP
 

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I'll definitely give my mechanic this information along with other issues I've heard about people having with the ignition system on the their Ford Focus or other models from around the time of my 2009 Focus SE
 

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Thanks so much for this information! You described the problem so accurately that I took the chance and bought the ignition housing for my 2009 Focus and did it myself. Not the easiest thing I've ever done, but I'm all thumbs with the mechanical aptitude of a brick. The important thing is that it starts now! Thanks again for taking the time. Best wishes.
 

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I've been having this issue for so long and this thread just saved me. I took out the ignition switch and used a flathead screwdriver to turn it and the car started. Im heading to buy a new lock housing assembly now. THANKS!!!!!
 

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What the instructions above don't address is whether or not one has to have the chip reprogrammed for any reason. My assumption would be "no" because you're reusing the PATS, but the dealership and two shops thus far have insisted that the dealership has to do it in order to reprogram it. Does anyone know?
 

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The instructions don't mention it since no-one thought ANYBODY with knowledge of what was actually being done would even THINK of a key/PATS issue being involved.

When you use the same key and same lock cylinder, there is NO CHANGE to anything needing special attention.

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IF someone decided to replace an ignition cylinder AS WELL, without just keying it to match the current keys, THEN you'd need to have the new keys programmed into the car's system. (there are ways to DIY IF you have two matching ones avail. that currently work)
 

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The instructions don't mention it since no-one thought ANYBODY with knowledge of what was actually being done would even THINK of a key/PATS issue being involved.

When you use the same key and same lock cylinder, there is NO CHANGE to anything needing special attention.

__________________________________________________________________________________________

IF someone decided to replace an ignition cylinder AS WELL, without just keying it to match the current keys, THEN you'd need to have the new keys programmed into the car's system. (there are ways to DIY IF you have two matching ones avail. that currently work)

I figured as much. It just struck me as odd that the two mechanics I asked to do this for me (lack of time, otherwise I'd do myself) claimed that it has to be done by the dealer because it requires programming, even if using the same keys, same cylinder even.
 

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So... Installed the new housing. Was a snap to get it off and on, but now for some god forsaken reason when I'm driving it intermittently and randomly goes in and out of traction control limp mode. Anyone know what this could be from? Dealership can't figure it out either. The steering wheel angle sensor is apparently going in and out of connectivity for some reason.
 

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Oh Ba**s, I see your location info. shows Plymouth, United States.

Bet that's actually U.K. and the default country shows. Your MkII version was never sold here so I can''t help with details.

We didn't get electric steering until 2012 MkIII models, and I understand you got that one in the 2011 model year. Our MkIII no longer uses a physical steering lock, so quite different there.

You could try a new thread for the current issues, there are members from countries with that car, just not as many. Disturbed wiring/connections is the only obvious guess to offer.
 

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Crap. My mistake. Actually Plymouth, Michigan, US. he dealership couldn't figure out exactly what the deal was/is. Everything was reinstalled properly, but they think the sensor itself somehow went bad. I'm more concerned that I somehow jarred a wire loose in the harness or something but they swear everything is intact. This thumb sized piece of plastic is like $170. Ouch.
 

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OK, that's better.

Still need a new thread to get more views, you must have stability control in that one to add up to what I see for symptoms/guesses.
 

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Thanks sooo much for your info on fixing the "not starting" issue for my son's 2009 Ford Focus. It had been to the mechanic several times to no avail, then the key would work starting it again. We took it back to the mechanic again today and another Focus was there with the same problem. I found your post while the mechanic was trying to figure out what the problem was with the other Focus. When I told him you said the problem was in the steering column, he checked it out and immediately ordered the part you recommended and should have both cars fixed tomorrow! Again, thank you very much for your post.
 
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