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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone installed a cone filter like this instead of this it’s probably on one of the threads I just havnt seen it and also what oil are y’all recommending I’m bouncing between stp synthetic high mileage and Castrol gtx and a motor craft filter I will b using the 5w 20
 

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So mote be it
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need to search a bit:

As for oil, any synthetic in the weight printed on your oil cap is fine
 

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Below is a picture of mine from a few days ago.


I blindly followed the directions provided in this Youtube video. I had to buy an adapter for ~$10 off Amazon. If you're interested, I'll dig out exactly which one I purchased. I linked it in another thread on this site.

It's been doing great!! No CEL and no problems. A little raspy on idle. I think it's running a bit stronger. That said, it may be wishful thinking on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay thanks see I thought bout building my own with some tubing from eBay or the orilleys but didn’t know if they made a maf adapter for our setup I watched the YouTube video and I know he bought the spectra mag adapter and it didn’t work idk just looking and some other options bc I don’t wanna spend 70+ for a cai
 

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@Truckerjacob I'm not intending to press you about your decision to go a different direction but for anyone searching for a cost effective and easy way to replace the lifetime air filter on a 2005-07, everything you need to make it work is on Amazon for $100:
Follow the instructions on this Youtube video....he shows you how to repurpose your OEM MAF sensor and tube.

$100 to replace the crappy lifetime air filter with an easily serviceable, better breathing filter - and you've also got a handy new Dremel.
 

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I left the resonator in place, removed the big "permanent" filter in the fenderwell, and installed a conical filter on the resonator inlet.
It made a small increase in noise, but I now have a cleanable filter that likely flows better than stock.
A bonus is it still looks stock from above.
 

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^^^^ the issue I've heard with doing that way is the MAF was designed to be a certain distance from the TB and when it's that close it doesn't have time to adjust for what it's reading... Or something like that. I don't have any info to base it off of, just what I've read in the past. Personally, I'd rather have a pipe that angles it down lower in the engine compartment, otherwise you're just sucking in all that hot air.
 

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2006 ZX3 2.0, 2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT
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^^^^ the issue I've heard with doing that way is the MAF was designed to be a certain distance from the TB and when it's that close it doesn't have time to adjust for what it's reading... Or something like that. I don't have any info to base it off of, just what I've read in the past. Personally, I'd rather have a pipe that angles it down lower in the engine compartment, otherwise you're just sucking in all that hot air.
I wanted a cheap fix. 50,000 miles running this setup in Houston. There is some heat soak sitting at red lights but it goes away quickly. Definitely runs better than the factory debris collector.
 

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I wanted to take this opportunity to share my DIY ram intake with you guys.
So I gutted out lifetime box
Gutted out the mesh plate to mesh at the base of resonator.
Deleted the base of resonator and sealed spaces so no vaccum leaks and all the raspy sound and instead of cone at inlet where old lifetime box was I ran some 3in tubing and cut and inlet to fit through the driverside foglight cover. Here are a few photos. And it runs a hell of alot better than before. MAF is at stock location still.
 

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2006 ZXW SE, starting its new life as a sleeper
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I like the ram idea. This reminds me of the newmission intake mod for Mk 2: 2012 Focus Custom Ram Air How-To

Do you have some kind of air cleaner / filter in there somewhere?

I was thinking about doing the stealth SRI, with a a cold air pipe leading to a scoop. A chamber to let ram pressure come up and prevent mixing would be a nice phase two.
 

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AIr fuel is good up until MAF gets dirty then car starts running rough. Fixed that by just cleaning the maf. Symptoms of the maf getting dirty from open inlet were pre detonation and rough idle at stops. Since I cleaned idle is smooth and no drop out on the RPMS or rough idle at stops. Sits at 700rpms when stationary healthily. And MPG has only gone down 1mpg or 2 possibly. No dyno testing but my 0-60's have drastically increased since running the homemade RAM and deleting out swirl valves.
 

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I like the ram idea. This reminds me of the newmission intake mod for Mk 2: 2012 Focus Custom Ram Air How-To

Do you have some kind of air cleaner / filter in there somewhere?

I was thinking about doing the stealth SRI, with a a cold air pipe leading to a scoop. A chamber to let ram pressure come up and prevent mixing would be a nice phase two.
There is no fitler other than mesh layer to catch large debris as they may try to come in. I wanted to do a custom SRI but without doing some fabrication to the radiator it seems both unaplicable and not worth the trouble. I looked at alot of different products trying to get an idea of what works and this is the final product I came up with that works for me. I did 2 other types of stealth mods and like Tom mentioned I did have issues with A/F ratios where it was running way to rich and I was making 16 mpg or opposite where I created negative vaccum space around where the cone was located and car was running lean on the top end and struggling to move past 90. IMO the way I have intake rn works as good if not better than aftermarket intake. I do plan on buying an SCT handheld to further gains and better control fuel mixture to see how well my custom ram really works (Swirl valves are deleted on my intake manifold also and I'm fairly sure that is a contributing factor to my better 0-60 times w/ the ram application)
 

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Per Tom’s suggestion in Post #16 above, since I have an SRI on my 2007 Duratech 2.0, I took a drive yesterday to monitor the fuel trims with my OBD2 scanner.

At a 60 mph / 2500 rpm cruise, both LTFT & STFT’s were mostly hovering around -3% with STFT’s maybe a couple percentage points higher at -3 to -5%.

I never saw anything in double digits with occasional flashes into the higher negative single digits for STFT’s.
 

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Per Tom’s suggestion in Post #16 above, since I have an SRI on my 2007 Duratech 2.0, I took a drive yesterday to monitor the fuel trims with my OBD2 scanner.

At a 60 mph / 2500 rpm cruise, both LTFT & STFT’s were mostly hovering around -3% with STFT’s maybe a couple percentage points higher at -3 to -5%.

I never saw anything in double digits with occasional flashes into the higher negative single digits for STFT’s.
I guess that would explain where people see increase in mpg on highway with CAI. Not sure how negatively that will affect the car but I haven't had any real issues arise that I haven't been able to fix yet. Have you tried monitoring at WOT?
 
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