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2.3 Duratec 119k miles.. this has been happening for a while, but sometimes when I attempt to start my vehicle is cranks for about 2-3 seconds longer than usual and kinda stumbles upon startup and rpms usually rise to approx 2k and then slowly lower as it normally would.
Also been having an issue where when I come to a stop the rpms drop below idle but quickly return to idle, this has been going on since I’ve owned the car around 69k but hasn’t ever stalled...
I’ve replaced the intake manifold in the past as well as the rubber hose behind the the mani, I’ve never replaced the IAC but I’m suspecting I might need to after these issues..
Also have some suspension questions for anyone that’s lowered their car on Megan springs. The bearings in my strut hats are popping pretty badly and I read somewhere that there might be a plate I need to use for the Megan springs since they also are used and specified for the sister vehicle Mazda3...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.. mostly worried about the startup issue I can always keep buying strut hats since local parts store has them for $20 a piece
 

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2.3 Duratec 119k miles.. this has been happening for a while, but sometimes when I attempt to start my vehicle is cranks for about 2-3 seconds longer than usual and kinda stumbles upon startup and rpms usually rise to approx 2k and then slowly lower as it normally would.
Also been having an issue where when I come to a stop the rpms drop below idle but quickly return to idle, this has been going on since I’ve owned the car around 69k but hasn’t ever stalled...
I’ve replaced the intake manifold in the past as well as the rubber hose behind the the mani, I’ve never replaced the IAC but I’m suspecting I might need to after these issues..
Also have some suspension questions for anyone that’s lowered their car on Megan springs. The bearings in my strut hats are popping pretty badly and I read somewhere that there might be a plate I need to use for the Megan springs since they also are used and specified for the sister vehicle Mazda3...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.. mostly worried about the startup issue I can always keep buying strut hats since local parts store has them for $20 a piece
DGM,

What year/trans?
Long crank is sometimes as simple as worn spark plugs - when was the last time you looked at or changed them? It could also be an issue with fuel pressure not building quickly during cranking and to check that you will need either a scan tool or a good external fuel pressure tester. I would start with the plugs.

IAC and/or throttle body could be dirty causing inconsistent idle speed - do visual inspection.

Curious if you have scanned for codes or looked at any live PID data?

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I work as a technician at a ford dealership and have access to the scan tools, there’s no codes present and I haven’t had time to look at any live data recently due to work overload lol. I replaced spark plugs a year ago with 90kon the odometer, I haven’t inspected those since I replaced them. I also performed a de carb process and cleaned the throttle body around 80k as well. I’ll visually inspect those tomorrow if I have time and follow up, thanks for the advice Paul
 
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