[PapaLee]

I'm having a problem with my 03' focus SE wagon, I was told that the problem could be with the passive anti-theft system module which part of the hybrid electrical cluster in the instrument panel. I changed the starter but now need to reset the computer but don't have a scanner that access the codes needed to confirm that the problem is in the module.
I am hoping that someone on here can give me some suggestions on how to solve this. The car starts when cold but when it gets hot it won't, if I let it sit for a while (30-40 minutes) then it starts again. This happens every now and then when it wants to. I have a Ztech engine with auto transmission. Any one know where I can find scanner to read the codes or any other . Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

Hope you all have a great and very Merry Christmas season,
Papa Lee

 

[sailor]

Somebody is giving out some strange info., listing parts & procedures that don't exist.

The PATS system is an anti-theft device only, a sensor around the key lock needs to see a key with a code that has been entered into the PCM (powertrain control module - computer for engine & trans) as a valid one or the car won't start at all & the warning light in the dash flashes rapidly when an attempt is made to start it.

That unit in your year is actually in the right (passenger) kick panel area.

Any code reader can read standard OBD codes stored in the system, the simplest are quite cheap now but IF you got one the next step up - a scanner/reader is more useful as it can give current info. as well as read curent/pending codes.

If you get a free code reading at a parts store, get the actual code numbers & write them down for reference. looking them up in our listing here or elsewhere can give a LOT more info then someone's short interpretation that may not be accurate.

Some of the possibilities for not restarting well warm can include a sensor that isn't reporting actual temps, and a way to check that (scan tool) can help.

You can get some data from the test mode of the odometer. Holding the reset button in until started gets you into test mode, then repeated presses get to various reading to check - including useful things like engine temp & system voltage.

'Nuff for a first reply, I & others can add more later.

 

[PapaLee]

Somebody is giving out some strange info., listing parts & procedures that don't exist.

The PATS system is an anti-theft device only, a sensor around the key lock needs to see a key with a code that has been entered into the PCM (powertrain control module - computer for engine & trans) as a valid one or the car won't start at all & the warning light in the dash flashes rapidly when an attempt is made to start it.

That unit in your year is actually in the right (passenger) kick panel area.

Any code reader can read standard OBD codes stored in the system, the simplest are quite cheap now but IF you got one the next step up - a scanner/reader is more useful as it can give current info. as well as read curent/pending codes.

If you get a free code reading at a parts store, get the actual code numbers & write them down for reference. looking them up in our listing here or elsewhere can give a LOT more info then someone's short interpretation that may not be accurate.

Some of the possibilities for not restarting well warm can include a sensor that isn't reporting actual temps, and a way to check that (scan tool) can help.

You can get some data from the test mode of the odometer. Holding the reset button in until started gets you into test mode, then repeated presses get to various reading to check - including useful things like engine temp & system voltage.

'Nuff for a first reply, I & others can add more later.

Thanks for the info, I'll try to get a free code reading today.

 

[whynotthinkwhynot]

Is this a "no crank" issues or a "crank but not start issue"?

PATS will not allow the starter to turn the engine, and the light on the dash that looks like a lock will flash, but the interior lighting remains unchanged.

Is this a manual or automatic transmission? Even if it is a no crank issue, it could be something related to the same relay that PATS uses if it's not PATS. The same relay operates the neutral safety switch circuit or the clutch position sensor. Usually it is not the relay that is bad, but the switches.

 

[PapaLee]

A good code scanner

What brand makes a good scanner/reader that can read current info and read other pending code. How much would it cost to buy one?
Yesterday while driving home my car bucked then stopped running at 55 mph, when I tried to start it the odometer showed a bunch of dashes and nothing else. I waited for about an hour then it started normally.
I will check on getting a free scan today and write down all the codes to check against the list of codes on this site. By the way where do I find the codes list here? Thanks again in advance. PapaLee

 

[PapaLee]

it is a no crank issue, and it has an automatic tranny. How do I check the neutral safety switch and where is it located?

 

[sailor]

Dashes in the odo and quitting/not starting often is caused by a grounding issue. The small wires to ground from harness & battery (goes to body screw) are a first place to check for this.

 

[PapaLee]

had diagnostics done today at dealer was told they think it needs a power train control module diode. But no guarantee that it will fix the problem. they want to charge me 300-400$$ they said it could also be the module itself. If I had hair I'd be pulling out by now. I couldn't check the ground issue because of all the rain/sleet lately, I have to do that outdoors. Any other thoughts on this nightmare? thanks

 

[sailor]

I'd avoid that Dealer like the plague, that diode looks like a plain black fuse in the underhood fuse box and is easy to change - you can do it yourself with nothing more than the owners manual to tell you which one it is.

Grounding issue I mentioned is more common, and costs nothing more than time to clean a connection in most cases (maybe some wiring repair if really bad).

PCM is unlikely, and shouldn't be on the radar as a possibility unless other items have been checked & proven OK.

I HOPE there's some confusion and that price is for a PCM replacement IF it turned out to be an issue. $100-$150 for the checks & parts I just mentioned (not PCM) would be in line.

 

[PapaLee]

Thanks for your input, I took a pic of fuse/relay box and it's cover which I have attached to this message. I'm a little confused as to which black item in fuse box is the pcm diode. Hope someone can help me figure it out, I'm going to try and fix this myself so I need all the help I can get. This there an easy way to test the diode or relays to fine out if one of them is causing the problem? The diagram looks different than the actual relay layout.
Can't add pic to this message how do I insert pic?

 

[PapaLee]

This is pic of my fuse/relay box on my 03 wagon. can anyone tell me where the PCM diode is located, and how to test diodes, relays and fuses. I sure could use the help thank in advance for your input.

PapaLee
Drive safe and be kind

 

[sailor]

See that small black fuse looking thing by the small 40 amp fuse at the back center of your picture?

Check that out on your diagram & make sure to reinstall facing the same way when removed.

Ohm meter should show continuity in one direction only when checking a diode.

Owner's manual will list the exact numbered/pictured location BTW for a double check, I couldn't read the lid in your picture for confirmation.