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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, this is my first post here so forgive me if its the wrong section.
I have an 02 Focus ZX3 5spd.
After installing a new clutch I noticed my car would stall whenever I'd make turns and idling. I looked around and noticed that the power steering pressure switch was disconnected, so I reconnected it "knowing" that it would fix the problem. I'm not a mechanic or anything so I had to do a lot of online research to even think it would be the pressure switch. Anyway, the car is still doing it.
During/after cornering my car will stall unless I'm accelerating (whether on neutral or in a gear).

Before I buy a new power steering pressure switch, I'd like to be 100 percent sure it couldn't be anything else. Does anyone think it's something else by any chance?
 

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If it didn't do it before you replaced the clutch, then it does stand to reason that something happened during the install. True, the PS switch should signal the computer to boost the idle preventing stalling as a result of turning. There are a few culprits to check out first after you've double checked everything you can think of that you did when removing the transmission to install a new clutch.

The primary culprit being the IAC. This is what controls idle speed. It might not be doing it's job instead of it not getting a signal to do it's job which would be in the case of the PS switch not functioning. A few tests for the IAC would be turning on the AC and seeing if the idle drops, goes up, or stays about the same with the compressor engaged. If the idle drops, there's your culprit. Remove the IAC, clean, and re-install. If that doesn't work, then you might consider replacing it.

PCV vacuum leaks are very common for this engine as your vehicle approaches 10 years of age. The rubber elbows can collapse at idle, or simply leak. Both conditions tend to cause a lower than normal idle, and will resist attempts by the IAC to correct idle speed. Ford makes a $20 re-engineered vacuum line with insulation to protect the line from heat damage, or you can build your own using plastic 90 degree parts and vacuum line.

The fuel pump or fuel filter is another cause. This one tends to be more specific to turning to the left. Fuel filters should be replaced every 25k miles or so, and are often overlooked. The procedure is simple enough, and we have a how-to on it. Any brand of filter will do, although I prefer the Wix because it comes with the correct fuel line clips- although correct removal- pinch the line at the clip, don't remove the clip- prevents the clips from needing to be replaced for a very long time. As far as the fuel pump goes, there isn't a worthwhile DIY test for it, so the only indicator we have to rely on is how long it takes to prime the fuel system at start up. Listen for the pump when you turn the key to ON, and if it takes longer than 5 seconds to prime- then you need to plan to get a new pump.

I'm going to guess that it's the IAC. For some reason, dirty IACs tend to get even worse at sticking after sitting for a few days during a clutch or engine install. We've had more than one problem like that on this board.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just tried to test the IAC by turning on the AC didn't see much of a difference. Rpm slight rose when the fan turned on but that's about it. Here's a video so you can see, maybe you can tell me if that rise is enough to be a problem with the IAC or if its just the fan turning on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK4S286GCwo
 
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