Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Stg 1's, seriously, they're are all you need.
Stage 2 or 3 cams
Question: How bad is the drivability between a stage II and a III I want the most usable power possible, and be able to drive it around town, I mean when you say it's a rough idle, call dumb if you must, but what exactly do you mean? I've read some info from marcymotorsport, but I just dont get the definition of Rough Idle. I'm trying to decide between the too, also I plan on adding a turbo kit, would these cams work or should I look for something else?
STAGE-II: PERFORMANCE STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 1500-7000RPM
Fair Idle, good low to mid range and strong top end power. Largest grind for automatic trans. For max HP use low restriction air intake, 1.75" header and 2.5" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 9.0-11.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.
STAGE-III: HOT STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 2500-7500RPM
Rough Idle, strong mid range and strong top end power. Manual transmission ONLY. For max HP use oversize air intake and air meter, intake manifold, head work, 1.875" header and 2.75" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 10.0-12.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.
STAGE-II: PERFORMANCE STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 1500-7000RPM
Fair Idle, good low to mid range and strong top end power. Largest grind for automatic trans. For max HP use low restriction air intake, 1.75" header and 2.5" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 9.0-11.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.
STAGE-III: HOT STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 2500-7500RPM
Rough Idle, strong mid range and strong top end power. Manual transmission ONLY. For max HP use oversize air intake and air meter, intake manifold, head work, 1.875" header and 2.75" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 10.0-12.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
360 Posts
The thing is my goals are to break into the 300hp club, so i'm looking for a decent set of cams, pistions and conection rods, plus a tune, that way when I make my mind up on what turbo kit to run, I can play with the boosts and tunes.
If you're into a 300 hp four, you're not in a street car without a turbo, you don't want to drive it in traffic. A turbo no problem, this ford engine is putting out 270+ now in the Mazdas now, so 300 s/b no problem. You won't need the III's if blown, then you'll be blowing a lot out the exhaust because of the overlap, and have to live with the poor idle.direboi said:
Joined
·
6,143 Posts
Anything with good low/ midrange would be much better for the street than a tweaked high RPM cam. 2500-7500 doesnt sound like it would be fun in traffic, plus from my experience when a company says "rough idle" they mean it! If youre going turbo it might be worth it to find a turbo grind, although I have no clue where you should look. Good luck!
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
I've used crane 1's,2's, 3's, and 4's.
Don NOT put anything bigger than 2's in a car you will drive day to day. Do not put anything other than 1's in it if you plan on getting a turbo kit.
Don NOT put anything bigger than 2's in a car you will drive day to day. Do not put anything other than 1's in it if you plan on getting a turbo kit.
Joined
·
482 Posts
Crower makes stage4 cams for forced induction cars, but they are more like satge 1 for power adders.[strongman]
Joined
·
2,082 Posts
I have heard that you should not use aftermarket cams with a FI setup.
You can do it but the tuner/installer will have to dial in the cams to work
with FI. Thats why in all reality you should just leave the stock cams in.
You can do it but the tuner/installer will have to dial in the cams to work
with FI. Thats why in all reality you should just leave the stock cams in.
Joined
·
22,770 Posts
Probably true. I personally thought that the Crower stock replacement cams would be good for street FI because of the increased exhaust profile. You can use whatever you want, but will probably see better gains with cams designed for FI like the Crower 2 FI cams. Keep in mind that if you do use cams other than stock that you'll need to find someone to tune the car once you add FI. Otherwise you might end up buying a new motor.jealm said:
Food for thought.
Joined
·
447 Posts
not to change the subject too much, but what type of cams should I get, a daily driver with no plans fo FI. That would be as far into the engine I would want to go. The main goal is to not lose any low-end torque, which is what makes the duratec so unique of an engine, but make a little more high-end as well. I'd like to have ~200 hp to the wheels eventually...
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
^^ Crane or Cosworth
Joined
·
10,540 Posts
ok I don't mean to go off topic but I have decided on crane cams but which stage should I go with, stage one or stage two? I am not going turbo and I want reliablity but at the same time I want power. I am looking for about 10-20 whp from cams... is this possible with the stage one cams?
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
yes, 1's are fine
Joined
·
447 Posts
what's the added benefit and/or downfall from going to stg 2's from stg 1's?? beside the added costs of springs and retainers
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
look at the lobe profiles and that will tell you everything.
Joined
·
10,540 Posts
What stage cams do you have aero?
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
1's are in the car at the moment, I've used 2's also. A lot of it has to do with how they're adjusted, right now the 1's are lumpier than how I had the 2's set up.
Joined
·
447 Posts
Joined
·
10,540 Posts
well I have decided on either Cossie cams that don't require the upgraded valve springs or the Crane stage ones. From what I can see they both are pretty much the same. Now I just need to figure out what ones to get.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
