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Discussion Starter #1
I don't know which cams to get. Should I get stage 1 or stage 2? I want to add a supercharger later, but that could be a while.

Do I need adjustable cam gears? I like the fact that they are lighter, but can I do without them?
 

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you wont like crowers w/a blower especially, think will be very piggish down low.

look into stage 1s, regardless of manufacturer.

-Ult
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good point. This will be a daily driver with lots of red lights ahead. I really don't know much at all about cams, but working on my Focus is forcing me to learn fast. Do you think I should add new valve springs or anything else like that. I want my engine to be safe.

I also heard that I could lose power with this mod. Is that just if it isn't timed right?
 

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AKA Toyotech
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you will need cam gears, you won't need new valve springs and retainers....the crowers, even stage one have a loping idle. of course you will lose power if they aren't timed correctly...luckily our motor is non interference...or it would crush some internal goodies...you better tell me a mechanic is installing these...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes, this will all be professionally installed except for the intake and TB.

Any ideas about where my hp/torque will be assuming I get the stage 1 cam?

BTW: what do you mean by "loping idle"?
 

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AKA Toyotech
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ever hear a v8 that barely idles....as you can almost count the revolutions the crank is at...thats a loping idle..just not as bad. lil over 140whp
 

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Discussion Starter #7
haha...man, I don't really want that, but to be honest, it kinda does that already, so it's okay.

Now, I can't decide on what to get, Crane cams or Crower cams.
Crane says idle - 6500rpm (and cost ??? does anyone know?)
Crower says idle - 6000rpm (and cost $401.98)

Crane says that they have smoothed out the idle + they have higher rpm range, so that "sounds" like a good choice. What do ya think?
 

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AKA Toyotech
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i can tell you that no matter what stage crower it is...it will def not be from idle up...ii say go to crane.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well then, we agree on what cams I'm getting. Great! Do you have any idea how much they cost?

Also, will the stock MAF be substancially restrictive? I'd like to get the 70mm, but that's gonna have to wait for more cash.

Oh, and just a funny note...I'm keeping the 'Turbo Tornado'. I'm gonna put it between my new cone filter and the MAF (in case it really does what it says, that's a good place). I'm still upset I bought it, but it sounds like I have a turbo sometimes because of the whistle..lol. Infomercials suck!! They take advantage of impulse buyers. [hah] [chair]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You have listed that you've ported a 2k manifold. Well, I'm driving a 2000ZX3. What is involved in that? It seems as if I'm doing all this stuff to make my car breath better, it may pay off to do that too (seems simple since it's plastic). Is it just porting around the TB or on other areas?

So, Ford Racing cams are made by Crane? It would be nice if they are both cheaper and better than the Crowers.
 

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there not made by crane, their just the same grinds

-Ult
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ahhh, I see...
 

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DO NOT GET STAGE 1!!!
They absolutely suck
I have stage 2 crowers and they are badass. Your idle will lope, but i think its pretty cool. You will have lots of trouble getting those bolts off. I recommend you find somebody with an impact gun or that you buy one to get them off. If you dont know how to do this, get somebody who knows how. Also, I would recommend getting an aftermarket throttle body that has an adjustable stop screw. Odds are that you might need to mess with the idle. If you get stage 2, you might have to grind the cylinder head, and you might not. I didnt. But if you have to, it can be done with a screwdriver. You dont need the adjustable cam gears. I didnt, but i want them pretty bad. But if you keep the factory sprockets, you will need to drill holes in them because there is something on the cam that it will have to fit into. I forgot what it is called, but u will know what im talking about if you look at it closely.
 

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udo said:
DO NOT GET STAGE 1!!!
They absolutely suck
I have stage 2 crowers and they are badass. Your idle will lope, but i think its pretty cool. You will have lots of trouble getting those bolts off. I recommend you find somebody with an impact gun or that you buy one to get them off. If you dont know how to do this, get somebody who knows how. Also, I would recommend getting an aftermarket throttle body that has an adjustable stop screw. Odds are that you might need to mess with the idle. If you get stage 2, you might have to grind the cylinder head, and you might not. I didnt. But if you have to, it can be done with a screwdriver. You dont need the adjustable cam gears. I didnt, but i want them pretty bad. But if you keep the factory sprockets, you will need to drill holes in them because there is something on the cam that it will have to fit into. I forgot what it is called, but u will know what im talking about if you look at it closely.
i'm saddened to see such a wealth of typed bombast.

i make as much power as many of the crower 2 guys w/race headers out there, not to mention more tq and broader powerband. i dont have to wait for my cams to 4k to go. he's also lookin into a blower, so rethink your cam suggestion. the only stage 2 cam out there that needs reliefs made in the head are cat 2s. even if in the rare instance you did need reliefs...a screwdriver should not be associated w/anythin on a cylinder head other than a crude TDC test.

sprockets work, i was a skeptic too, but learnin this engine as opposed to those i've worked with in the past, they work. 0,0 car didnt make any more power w/stage 1s and a ORP than it did w/stocks thru stock cat (tuned)....tune em and a whole different story. w/stocks and stock cat, tuning yielded 8hp/3tq, w/ford 1s and a orp, tuning yielded 10whp/3tq. thats just peak. view my dyno page for the jumps across the powerband.

idle is set by the computer, if the same idle w/bigger cams is too lopey for you, then get a chip which raises the limiter some, but if you want get a custom burn w/a lil more. you cant adjust idle w/the idle screw, the computer will only compensate. i have a guy on FJ who counts the number of times i have to tell some1 those exact words. do not use an impact gun on cams plz....tq wrench and/or breaker bar.

plz reexamine your words in the effort to help this guy.

http://thewarf.com/ryan/mycar.html

-Ult
 

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No by all means, contact your local snap on dealer for the 2.5" drive impact gun they sell, 880 lbs/ft should be enough for ya!

When you finish totally ****ing up your car perhaps you can go into buisness and **** up other peoples cars!
 

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AKA Toyotech
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udo said:
DO NOT GET STAGE 1!!!
They absolutely suck
I have stage 2 crowers and they are badass. Your idle will lope, but i think its pretty cool. You will have lots of trouble getting those bolts off. I recommend you find somebody with an impact gun or that you buy one to get them off. If you dont know how to do this, get somebody who knows how. Also, I would recommend getting an aftermarket throttle body that has an adjustable stop screw. Odds are that you might need to mess with the idle. If you get stage 2, you might have to grind the cylinder head, and you might not. I didnt. But if you have to, it can be done with a screwdriver. You dont need the adjustable cam gears. I didnt, but i want them pretty bad. But if you keep the factory sprockets, you will need to drill holes in them because there is something on the cam that it will have to fit into. I forgot what it is called, but u will know what im talking about if you look at it closely.
this is the second time today you gave useless and inaccurate forum...when you gain some knowledge. come back...otherwise just sit back and listen because from what you're saying and the way you're acting...you have a ton to learn.

ps: for something that hasn't been answered...the dowel pin that comes on crowers can easily be removed and YOU DO NOT need to drill holes in them.
 

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Drilling a hole in your cam gear is simple if you do it right and better if you plan on getting cam gears. Has anybody here tried to remove those bolts with a wrench? it is impossible and you end up turning the crank as well and you cant do it.
Anyway, How i did it: I ordered a stock zetec head from a wrecked car that came with stock head, intake manifold, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body (this was rusted up and useless so i threw it away), and stock zetec cams and cam sprockets. I bid on this and nobody else did. $50 bucks. Why not? After i tried removing the bolt with a wrench and figured out it was impossible and i never removed the timing bolt yet because i didnt have a way of torqing (<---- is that a word?) it down again. So i took off the cams that came with my donor head and my crower cams that were w/o gears and took them to the service dept where my friend's friend works and he got off the sprockets from the donor cams and then we realized that the stock cams do not have a dowel pin. SO.. we could not get it torqued down at the dealership. So we took it back to my friends house, tried pulling out the pins and they would not come out. So we called FC and asked them if the pin was able to be pulled out and they said it wasnt. But we could just saw it off or drill holes in the gears. We tried sawing it off and it wasnt working so we just drilled holes in the sprockets and torqued them down. I had to leave for work before they torqued it down. so they gave me a ride to work, and finished the job for me.
Im just telling you what i did. It worked. U can call me stupid if you want, but my car is running fine and i havent had any problems. The only difference between stage 1 and 2 (crower) are that the intake cam lobes are larger. the exhaust side stays the same. So if you were going with a turbocharger though, stage 1 or 2 would be fine. Although i would go with 1. However, the focus apparantly reacts well to a larger intake cam and a small exhaust cam. On FC's turbo focus, they are using stage 3 intake cam and stock exhaust cam and they are at 536whp right now. They tested the shit and that was the best combination that worked. Go figure.
 

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AKA Toyotech
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remove what bolt with a wrench?...you mean the torx on the cam sprocket?...a wrench and torx easily removes that.

the dowel pins are pushed in...and i have the holes from mine...and the pins themselves.

you are stupid though...i read the posts...don't come back and say your not...bs, the idle adjustment screw doesn't do shit. if you didn't want to be called stupid. you didn't need to post.
 
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