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.....also the oil pump has a timing mark that is also dead center.....
Yuppers - both timing marks straight up and you're good to go ( crank and cam). Silly me overlooked the timing mark on a 'NEW' oil pump housing - much too clean and shiny! And everything looks different off the car!! Kind of like how things look after a snow storm.......


moon111 - price depends on quality. You can buy belts for:

120k miles - Ford eom
90k miles -
60k miles - Dayco

belt and tensioner - $45 to 75+, over a year and a half ago though.
 

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2000 Focus LX
2.0L SOHC engine

I changed out the timing belt and put it back together and it doesn't start. It gets a spark, I can tell it's getting gas, and I've taken it apart to ensure it's stayed aligned. It sounds like a normal start for the first half second after you crank it over, then it's a lower, weaker sound. Got a new battery, same result. The only part I was lost at when putting it back together was putting on the crankshaft pulley. The placement of it, etc. It had a notch in it, so I lined the notch in the pulley with the notch in the crank sprocket. I also removed the crank sensor in a work fever, and found I didn't really need to do it. I don't think that was the issue though.

In speaking to a friend, he said that the number one cylinder had to be up, with the crank sprocket and cam sprockets in 12 o'clock position. Since the belt went bad and stripped the teeth off one section of the old belt, it may have thrown off my cylinders or something. I know I can tell if a cylinder is up with the spark plug out, my question is which one is my number one cylinder, and can my cam sprocket mark be at 12 o'clock and the #1 cylinder not be up?
 

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2000 Focus LX
2.0L SOHC engine

I know I can tell if a cylinder is up with the spark plug out, my question is which one is my number one cylinder, and can my cam sprocket mark be at 12 o'clock and the #1 cylinder not be up?
The #1 cylinder is closest to the belt(s).

"Can your #1 cylinder be TDC and cam NOT be at 12 o'clock?"

Yes. You can be on #1's Exhaust Stroke instead of the Compression Stroke (cam will be at 6 o'clock) - when your crank mark is straight up. Your crank turns two revolutions for every one revolution of the cam. For the Compression Stroke set Both the CAM and CRANK marks straight up. Use the marks on the head/block, oil pump housing to verify and for perfect accuracy the first time.

After you have installed the new belt, rotate the crank by hand two complete revolutions, clockwise, and check the markings again. Be sure not to hit a piston with a valve (debate is still on going if SOHC SPI is an interference engine or not).

Your bad belt slipped and the crank/cam weren't correctly positioned when the new belt was installed - MOST PROBABLE CAUSE.

Pages in Chiltons manual 2A-2 and 2A-4 show the markings to use for correct timing.

Also - your oil pump needs to be primed - VERY IMPORTANT, EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

New oil pumps need to be primed by hand through the pick-up mounting hole before the oil pick-up tube is installed on the pump and before the oil pump is installed on the engine. Rotate the oil pump by hand a few times while filling it with oil - then install the pick-up tube. Then install on the engine. Once on the engine, monitor the oil pressure while cranking the engine for 15 second intervals until the pressure comes up. Don't start the engine until the pressure comes up.
 

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so i just got done with my timing belt and timing belt tensioner it seamed overwhelming and nearley impossible untill i found this thread thanks guys saved me some cash
 

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Getting ready to tackle this job on a 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 SOHC SPI. Just curious on the following...

9. Once these are out you will need to remove your harmonic balancer (the pulley on the crank shaft). This one is hard to get out. There are a few not to safe ways to get it out that I wont mention here. Be safe.

10. Now that this is off, you will want to line up the timing marks before you remove the belt. Look for the mark on the crank and one on the cam pulley. You will want to line these up so that they are pointing up. To turn them, do so by turning the crank clock wise only. It would be easier if the spark plugs are pulled, and make sure you put the car in neutral if you have a MTX.

How can you tell that the marks on the crankshaft line up with the crankshaft pulley on? After you take the crankshaft pulley off what tool do you use to turn the crankshaft if the marks do not line up? Do you just put the crankshaft pulley back on since it is keyed and move the crankshaft with it?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Spi is interference or my spi would still be running. My valves dropped because of jumped timing. Piston had to hit valves.

You line up crank with ratchet, no you don't remove balancer and put it back on. If your asking.questions like that you.should probably have someone else do it for you. Honestly timing belt on spi is so easy I'd do it for 50 bucks it's about a 30-60min job
 

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Don't take it offensively I don't mean to be rude. Experience I'd a teacher I learned just just like you asking what I now consider to be retarded questions.. although mistakes have cost me. Sometimes it's better to watch and learn before going at it.

If I was in sc I would definitely come do it for us and teach you in the process.

Basically you want to turn crank to Tdc you do.this with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer there are several ways.to do.so.I would Google that first. How to find Tdc.

I use my thumb in the spark plug hole as well as feel for it as I'm cranking with the spark plug in. With the spark plug in the difference is slight but the crank will just be a little harder to turn its easier to tell.the faster you turn the crank because.the.pressure in the chamber will escape somewhat fast.
 

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Lol true that. Phones really suck to type on. But seriously I didn't mean to come off rude. I'm trying to help so you don't time your.shit wrong and drop a valve or bend them or blow a head gasket, or crack or warp your head. Thus costing you more time and money. But seriously I am retarded my first engine swap I tried.to.pull the engine with the torque converter bolts still. I've made my retarded mistakes don't get me wrong luckily trans.was fine. But it could have been a bad for me.
 

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Its all good. I've done everything from engine & transmission pulls & installs, internal fuel pumps, manifold gaskets etc and the list goes on. Surprisingly I've never done a timing belt. So this will be the first one. I now realize that if the cam is on TDC then the crank should be as well as long as it hasn't jumped. I plan on tackling this job soon. The key is like with everything double check, triple check, quadruple check.
 

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2000 Ford Focus SE Split Port

[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]Thanks for the post on the timing belt. I just changed mine as well but didnt have great luck. Before I changed my timing belt it ran great. After I changed the belt it ran good but had a small miss. Prior to taking the old belt off I tried to align the cam and crank at top with both notches. It didnt matter how many rotations I could not get them to both hit at the 12 o clock position. I had all the spark plugs out and could tell the number one piston was not at TDC. When I had the number one piston at TDC both the Cam and Crank shaft where at 5 minutes to the right of 12 oclock.

So I proceeded to change the belt with the number one piston at TDC and both the crank and cam at 12 o clock. I put the belt on and tried to rotate the engine 2 times but it the piston would hit the valves. Prior to removing the belt I painted the alignment of both the cam and crank. Next I took the belt off again and put it back the way it was prior to me removing. I checked the rotations of the engine and it rotated all the way through 2 rotations. I put everything back together and it ran good but had a couple of misses. I ran it for about two weeks and yesterday when starting my engine I heard a loud knock coming from my engine and it was idling bad. I immediately turned it off and had it towed home.

Next I removed my head and found out that the number one piston was hitting something. It may have been my valve but there are bits and pieces all in the number one cylinder. I believe my belt jumped a tooth and the piston and valve hit each other.



My question would be is if I have the head reconditioned can i still use the engine with the number one piston having cuts divots in the top of the cylinder. The engine still has good compression.

See picture below:
 

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