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Recently changed my timing belt so I thought I would try writing a little how to.


1. You may need to raise your car some to get a little better access, but it's not a requirement unless your car is really low.

2. Under the car you will need to remove the belt shield. It is held by 2 bolts. Sorry no pictures but very easy to find and remove.

3. I found it helpful to also remove the wheel well skirt on the passenger side of the car as well. Simply remove the plastic screws on the skirt and pull out the locks. There may also be one torques screw.

4. You will need to remove your water tank.



5. Use a jack and a block of wood to hold your engine under the oil pan. This will keep it from falling and putting undue stress on the other mounts.



6. Next you are going to have to remove the passenger side engine mount.



7. Once this is out you will have more room to remove the accessory belt.



8. Once this is out you will also need to remove the timing belt covers. There is the metal one on top that has 4 bolt and a plastic lower one, that is hard to get to. The plastic one has 3 or 4 small bolt.

9. Once these are out you will need to remove your harmonic balancer (the pulley on the crank shaft). This one is hard to get out. There are a few not to safe ways to get it out that I wont mention here. Be safe.

10. Now that this is off, you will want to line up the timing marks before you remove the belt. Look for the mark on the crank and one on the cam pulley. You will want to line these up so that they are pointing up. To turn them, do so by turning the crank clock wise only. It would be easier if the spark plugs are pulled, and make sure you put the car in neutral if you have a MTX.

11. Once your lines are lined up, remove your timing belt. You will need a 8mm allien wrench to pull back the timing belt tensioner.



12. Check your tensioner for wear, I needed to replace mine.

13. Double check your timing marks, and install the new belt, by starting at the crank and going counter clockwise.

14. After you have it in double check your timing marks again.

15. There good, triple check it by turning you crank clockwise 2 turns and the marks should be in line still. If not U will need to remove the belt and try again.

16. Put it all back together. Make sure you put the accessory belt on before you reinstall the engine mount, as this is a lot easier.

Warning, this all sound very easy, but can be very difficult if you are not experienced. This can also be dangerous, as you will be working with tools and heavy parts. I take no responsibility for any out come good or bad if you try this. This is meant for informational purposes only. I recommend that you have someone to help you, preferably someone experienced. Sorry there are not more picture, but my hands were dirty and I was trying to finish. Project took about 4 hours, including a run to the parts store to get new tentioner.

Hope this helps.
Also if there is anything missing or if you have any suggestions please post it.
 

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Thank you, I had a little over 114,000 miles. I was starting to get a little nervous. I still need to add to this, torque specs and so. Hope to get it updated soon.
 

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ok so i finally got around to changing my timing belt yesterday. Wow it was rediculousely easy. Literally only took me 30 to 45 minutes. And most the time seemed like it was just jackin up my car. LOL. But really, its easy and if you need it done then give it a try
 

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I'm getting ready to do this in the next month or so. Are there any special tools I will need to do my SPI 2.0L? I remember on my 1986 Escort there was a special wrench that my girlfriends Dad let me borrow from his job at the Ford dealership to do the timing belt on that car.
 

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Can anyone elaborate on the harmonic balancer removal? Is it just the pulley on the crankshaft for the accessories? How do you get this off?

Thanks.
 

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Yes, it's the pulley on the crankshaft.

You need to find a way to keep the pulley from turning while you try to wrestle the bolt loose. On slotted pulleys I have braced metal bars (screwdriver shafts) through the pulley and caught them on something solid on the backside. A good strap/chain wrench may grab with enough grip to do it, I used a strap wrench when I put the pulley back on (100k miles ago so it's held) but haven't tried it for removal.

On the Focus, I used the starter to turn the motor with a breaker bar/socket on the pulley and braced on the garage floor.....this is the not-so-safe-way I think he is mentioning. VERY IMPORTANT, you must have the plug wires or coil unplugged or the motor will fire.....this is bad with a loose pulley bolt ! Also the breaker bar will probably go flying across the garage (mine did) so it's important not to have any body standing around or anything breakable nearby. If I would have thought about it more, I would have draped a towel over the breaker bar handle or something.
 

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Yes, it's the pulley on the crankshaft.

You need to find a way to keep the pulley from turning while you try to wrestle the bolt loose. On slotted pulleys I have braced metal bars (screwdriver shafts) through the pulley and caught them on something solid on the backside. A good strap/chain wrench may grab with enough grip to do it, I used a strap wrench when I put the pulley back on (100k miles ago so it's held) but haven't tried it for removal.

On the Focus, I used the starter to turn the motor with a breaker bar/socket on the pulley and braced on the garage floor.....this is the not-so-safe-way I think he is mentioning. VERY IMPORTANT, you must have the plug wires or coil unplugged or the motor will fire.....this is bad with a loose pulley bolt ! Also the breaker bar will probably go flying across the garage (mine did) so it's important not to have any body standing around or anything breakable nearby. If I would have thought about it more, I would have draped a towel over the breaker bar handle or something.
I'll bet that added some excitment to the job!!!! [thumb]

Sounds like a strap wrench is the way to go. Is it completely necessary to take off the pulley? Can't the timing belt be taken off around the pulley after it is loose from the engine? Also, is there a torque spec for these bolts? I didn't see them on the general torque specs that were included in another thread.

Also, I saw a picture in a thread for the DOHC engine and using marks on the cam shaft pulley, drive shaft pulley, and the belt. Are there not top dead center marks on the pulleys to go by anymore?
 

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Not too exciting, it hit the plastic trashcan so no damage. I believe it's necessary for the timing belt (not the job I was doing at the time combined with fuzzy memory may make me wrong) Most of the time there's a cover behind the pulley that covers the lower timing pulley.....if not that, there may be a flange around the bottom of the bottom timing gear which would also keep the belt from coming out around the pulley.

I've done a few timing belts on other cars and all needed the crank pulley removed for the above reasons. If only he would have snapped a picture through the wheelwell....sigh.

Our SOHC (SPI) has timing marks I believe but IIRC the DOHC does not (at least not on the cam gears)

I betcha can't get it off with a strap wrench though....I think I tried that before doing the other thing.
 

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I was under the impression that the 2.0 SPI was a clearance engine. I bought a timing belt tensioner yesterday and the paperwork in the package says it is an interference engine. Is this true?
 

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No, it's not but I noticed that that seems to be how everyone selling belts has them listed.....not sure why.
 

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I would like to tip my hat to untenops for this great tutorial. I did my belt last week and my success was in great part to this thread.

I read MANY threads on this forum and I applied some of what I read elsewhere to my project.

Here are a couple tips to doing this job.

First, before you take the belt off, mark the old belt, both pullies, and where the pullies are in relation to the block. Then when you take the tensioner loose and remove the belt, you have your engine positions marked.

I would like to add a couple pictures, but I don't see where. [???:)]
 

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Just to confirm on #10, The timing marks are to be BOTH pointing at 12 o'clock? I thought they were suppose to be facing each other?
 

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Just to confirm on #10, The timing marks are to be BOTH pointing at 12 o'clock? I thought they were suppose to be facing each other?
It doesn't really matter where the postion of the crank and the cam crank are. If you mark your timing belt and pulleys BEFORE you remove the timing belt, you can simply mark the new belt in the same places as the old belt and install the new belt at the marks. That is what I did a couple weeks ago and it worked perfectly. If I could find how to add pictures I would post them for you to see.
 

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What is my best bet if my timing belt has gone bad and snapped or fallen off? I have been told that this has happened to my car, and unfortunately I tried to start it a multitude of times... I have never done it before, but clever in figuring out how to do things right the first time around. Are there marks on the splines of a 2000 Focus LX SOHC that can help me align it?
 

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location of timing marks .Your cylinder head has a mark on it that is dead center.you can see it from the window in the cam sprocket timing pointer, also the oil pump has a timing mark that is also dead center. Line up the crank sprocket timing pointer on that mark. Crankshaft at T.D.C(crank sprocket timing pointer aligned with oil pump. Timing mark and camshaft sprockret timing pointer aligned with cyn head timing mark. good luck. fordtec out!
 
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