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Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking about putting together a budget turbo kit for my wagon over the next couple of months using an EXP manifold (just lost one on ebay), RHB5 VJ 11 turbo (why? because I have one in mint cond.), and all of the usual other stuff. I thought to myself getting another SPI long block would be a good idea, do a fresh rebuild on that and when the car has a good tune and I'm happy with the way it runs throw the fresh motor in it and turn the wick up. Anyway my main question is are the SPI blocks Sleeved or not? wondering because this way I could get away with a honing and some rings and bearing in the extra block.
 

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I have to ask... if your going to go through the trouble to build a different SPI motor why not just do the Zetec swap... its a far better starting point for FI.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What's the fun in bolting on someone elses Zetec combo or doing the same thing eveyone else does. The parts are there to make good power with an SPI, I'm not looking for much more than 200hp and getting there will be much cheaper than a Zetec swap and then making the Zetec make 200HP which will require a turbo set-up anyways.
 

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I have to ask... if your going to go through the trouble to build a different SPI motor why not just do the Zetec swap... its a far better starting point for FI.
Why even do that?
This thread is full of over complication.
First off, you'll have a hard time seeing 200hp out of a VJ-11, it might be possible, but you'd have to squeeze every last drop out of it and cross your fingers. And second of all, why waste all the time and money to replace a stock motor for another stock motor? Just keep the one you have, as long as there is nothen wrong with it. The SPI stock short block can handle what ever a VJ-11 can make.

Edit: And no the CVH is not a sleeved motor, it's a cast iron closed deck block.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Edit: And no the CVH is not a sleeved motor, it's a cast iron closed deck block.
Great, makes life much easier. I have no clue of the history on the motor in the car (not even the mileage) because it was replaced awhile ago so I'd like to have a fresh motor in the car since everything else about the car was well documented. As for making 200hp, I think it may be possible since I got 175 out of a stock non-vtec D15 in my old civic, if not a 16G on a tube manifold and some good porting all around (and a good tuner, which I have) will get me there.
 

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Who cares about milage and history. As long as the compression is good across all 4, boost it. My turbo'd daily driver 2.0 SPI has 190k on it and is still going strong. Still has the stock head gasket even, never needed to open it up. I got that motor from the junk yard about 5 years ago with 80k on it, so I dont know the full history on it either.

Does'nt matter what motor you put the VJ-11 on, it can only support so much CFM, and it's not that much. If your gonna stick with that turbo, then a more realistic goal would be 175-180hp. If your gonna use a 16g, then 200 will be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well to each his own but I would rather go through a spare motor build it back stock with new rings, bearings, gaskets ect... The fresh motor will make more power anyways (not much but it will). I had the motor in my car blow up once already putting my whole families life at risk (long story if you don't know our 401 highway) and if I start monkeying around with things I want quality not junk yard stuff (exept for the turbo LOL). I knw it's not needed since the motor in the car is running fine, that's why I would probably get the car running to were I'm happy then drop in a fresh motor or at least a fresh short block.
 

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Replacing a perfectly working stock short block with another stock short block is a huge waste. I mean really, might as well replace the tranny with a new one to, it could go at any monent also. And as long as your at it, replace every moving part in the car.

Edit: What you should do is replace the valve seat's with somthing better. That is about the only thing that is worth opening up the motor for. The stock short block is the one thing good about the SPI right out of the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well for one the car is a DD for the time being and I cannot afford to have it sitting in my driveway while I put together a turbo kit for it, same reason I have H&R springs, Eibach sway bars, Urethane bushings, roush bodykit, new seats and stereo all sitting in my basement for it. I have to wait for the spring when we plan on geting another vehicle for my wife to drive. Until then I could be putting together a killer little motor, and frankly I would like to know that the motor is up to the task for a long time. I have a friend who thinks that he can just throw a turbo on an old car no problem and even with wicked tunes he's blown almost all of them up. Although I do agree with you that as long as compression is good all across then do it I just like the extra security in my head. And who knows I may even ad some strencth down there so it'll handle even more boost if needed. I think alot of people doubt this little motor but if you've got the resources it could be a little killer.
 

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Well for one the car is a DD for the time being and I cannot afford to have it sitting in my driveway while I put together a turbo kit for it, same reason I have H&R springs, Eibach sway bars, Urethane bushings, roush bodykit, new seats and stereo all sitting in my basement for it. I have to wait for the spring when we plan on geting another vehicle for my wife to drive. Until then I could be putting together a killer little motor, and frankly I would like to know that the motor is up to the task for a long time. I have a friend who thinks that he can just throw a turbo on an old car no problem and even with wicked tunes he's blown almost all of them up. Although I do agree with you that as long as compression is good all across then do it I just like the extra security in my head. And who knows I may even ad some strencth down there so it'll handle even more boost if needed. I think alot of people doubt this little motor but if you've got the resources it could be a little killer.
I've seen it time and time again, the more some one "rebuild's" a motor, the more problems that can come up. The average joe in his garage just cant match the quality and tolerances Ford can do from the factory. But If you going with aftermarket rod's and pistons, then that's one thing.

After all, it's safe to say I have more exsperiance and miles on turbo SPI's then any body else in the united states [wrenchin] maybe my advice ant so bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your the guinea pig LOL, truth is I've read through your Cardomain many times just to make sure I can afford it plus find all the parts ect. But when I thought about it I figured you've done and taken care of alot of guess work for others so why not go one step beyond and make a motor that's a bit stouter and would be able to safely make a bit more power (not that your numbers are anything to snuff about). Basically if I can muster up 200HP without any swapping of motors ect. I'll be a very happy man, I have to tell you though after blowing the first motor in this car after 2 weeks of owning it I don't feel confident. I have all the records since birth of this car and it was very well taken care but like I tell my wife it was just luck of the draw. We could have bought another Focus that would have given us 100'000 trouble free kms (not likely but [thankyou] ]
 

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so why not go one step beyond and make a motor that's a bit stouter and would be able to safely make a bit more power
Replacing stock parts with stock parts wont make any thing any stronger.

It does't need to be stronger, a stock block with 200,000 miles can handle what ever a VJ-11 can throw at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So even though the original motor that was in the car when I bought it ran like a top and I'm sure it had great compression, I should have known that the block would crack on a water jacket and leak all the anti-freeze into the motor. In a perfect world I would like to get a used motor and tear it apart and if using stock internals have everything balanced, rods shot-peened maybe line hone the main journals and some other stuff. I don't know if I would go this far, but I can bet that motor would make more power than junk or a high mileage motor and run better. Thanks for all your help though.

Cheers, Mike.
 

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So even though the original motor that was in the car when I bought it ran like a top and I'm sure it had great compression, I should have known that the block would crack on a water jacket and leak all the anti-freeze into the motor. In a perfect world I would like to get a used motor and tear it apart and if using stock internals have everything balanced, rods shot-peened maybe line hone the main journals and some other stuff. I don't know if I would go this far, but I can bet that motor would make more power than junk or a high mileage motor and run better. Thanks for all your help though.

Cheers, Mike.
So let me get this straight, when it comes to the engine your going for absolute complete perfection, but for your turbo, your ok with using and old, used, small turbo from the 80's that commonly referred to as a crappy POS and has a value of about $45?

If your really after making the most power as possible (as you said about a fresh rebuilt motor vs a used motor), dont you think starting with a EXP mani and probe turbo is going in the wrong direction?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Not at all, that's why I had mentioned the 16G and tube manifold earlier, I don't see the problem with throwing something together for the time being for a little fun then perfecting it. That turbo may not be the greatest but on a smaller engine it spools like a maniac, it may not make the biggest numbers but it's a fun little turbo.
 

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I know's it a fun turbo! Guess what I'm using on my Pony?

There are so many better thing you could be doing with your money and time, rathering then replacing somthing that is'nt even broken.
Do you have the engine managment parts like MAF, Injectors or tuner? How about a wide band, Intercooler, 3" exhaust, Charge pipeing, BOV and Gauges?


I honestly dont think the small incease in power you'll see with a freshly rebuild motor over a motor with some miles will be worth all the work, money and down time. It's not uncommon for motor builders to leave things a little loose anyways for room with heat expansion in turbo'd motor's.
 

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Ok I owned my 2003 for a month then it fried every bearing in it at 80,000 miles. If the man wants to start with a fresh engine then let him be, I would start with a new one if the time and money allowed. But when I do build mine it will be all new from the rods bearings pistons and all. I know where he is coming from about more power and dependability of a new motor, I put one in my pontiac and noticed a big difference. And he said the reason behind that turbo is because he ALREADY had it so that saves him money, and from what I gather he plans to upgrade later. Oh and I have rebuilt many of motors and been well within factory specs and as for factory tolerances all it takes is time and patience. It can be done and I am building one currently in my apartment kitchen floor and well within factory specs. So leave the guy alone go play with your BOV and let him build his car. That is all for now!!!
 

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Ok I owned my 2003 for a month then it fried every bearing in it at 80,000 miles. !!!
Obviously thats not normal. I've seen many CVH's go 200-300,000 miles with out problems. I'm gonna take a wild guess that you lost oil pressure or ran dry for somthing like that to happen.


If the man wants to start with a fresh engine then let him be, I would start with a new one if the time and money allowed. But when I do build mine it will be all new from the rods bearings pistons and all. I know where he is coming from about more power and dependability of a new motor, I put one in my pontiac and noticed a big difference. Oh and I have rebuilt many of motors and been well within factory specs and as for factory tolerances all it takes is time and patience. It can be done and I am building one currently in my apartment kitchen floor and well within factory specs. So leave the guy alone go play with your BOV and let him build his car. That is all for now!!!
Maybe he should replace his tranny with a new one, it could fail right? Maybe he should also replace his drive shafts, could fail. Also his fuel pump, and ECU, heater core and blower motor, radio and door hinges they can go bad to. Maybe he should just buy a brand new car?[poke]


And he said the reason behind that turbo is because he ALREADY had it so that saves him money
I have an idea, if some one wants to save money...dont replace parts that have nothen wrong with them!
 

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hey my rear door latches went, fixed on recall, fuel pump fixed on recall, radio screen went.... no recall. so i replaced it with a 20$ sony explode off my buddy... haha so looks like im good to go turbo huh?
 

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Hey i dont think theres anything wrong with replacing the pistons and rods, but i know i definately wouldn't bother with the whole flippin block. by the way, weren't the rods a weak point on our motors for turbo-ing anyway? i need to learn cuz im definately going to put a turbo in when i get a job at a garage at college and i can get the freaking tools and garage time for free...
 
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