ok this thing is being a pain, i get down to ready to pull the sensor out of the transaxle and the pin the holds the sensor wont come out no matter how hard i pull from what ever direction i can, and any tips?
i am putting in a new speed sensor on the transaxle, and i got the wires disconnected and just need to remove the pin the holds it in place, and it wont come out no matter what i do or how hard i pull, and its hard to manuver in that small area
If you have a manual transmission, i am stumped. The Mitchell's on demand manual says nothing special about the pin. It just says remove the pin and the sensor. Maybe it is stuck there ??? Try some penetrating lubricant.
so this can be reached from under the hood? some dude on craigslist "ford tech looking for side work" i asked him about it and he said he'd have to reference his ford labor guide. I laughed and replied about that book quoting 3 hours for a manual window regulator, when it only took me 30 minutes, and I've never taken a door panel off this car.
Considering that this post is almost a month old I am sure he has the problem solved by now. What I am thinking that he was referring to was the speed sensor itself where it attaches to the transmission. It has a locking pin that holds it in place so it isnt shaken off by the engine vibration. It should have a rounded top like a nail would. All you have to do is pull on this retaining pin and the sensor pops right off.
I got mine out. To be clear, this is for the iB5 transmission only. I have no idea about the MTX.
I used a pair of 10" locking pliers (Craftsman 45715) plus a small hammer with a plastic face. I clamped on the pin and then tapped on the pliers. The pin came out reasonably easily. With regular pliers, there was no way to get enough leverage to pull very hard.
The pin was solid stainless steel, most likely a 300 series alloy because it was relatively soft and non-magnetic. It was soft enough to gouge with the locking pliers easily. I'd say less than Rockwell C 20 for sure. The clip that was riveted onto the pin broke off during the job — oh well. A new pin/clip assembly did not come with the new sensor. I simply pressed the old pin back in sans clip.
Note that oil will drain out once you pull the sensor. Also, dirt will fall in. Make sure you clean the area before pulling the sensor and have something to catch the oil to avoid a mess on your floor.
Regarding the electrical connector, the tab to press faces the rear of the car. It can be pinched forward with your thumb with medium effort.
Regarding access to the area, the Haynes manual said to remove the front left wheel and the fender well. I found neither of these were necessary. I simply jacked up the front left of the car and got to it from below. My feet were sticking out behind the front left tire and my head was facing the passenger side (right side). I fed my left arm up the channel next to the exhaust pipe to get the connector off and clamp the pliers on the pin. I swung the hammer with my right hand reaching up beside the engine mount. You can get about 4" of swing. Not much, but enough.
Ford part number was 98AB-9E731AG. I bought the replacement from Rock Auto (rockauto.com) for $43.79. Replacement was an Airtex 5S4698. It was a solid-state magnetic sensor, not cable-driven.
Symptoms of the bad sensor:
1) Speedometer and odometer dropping out. First occasionally, then more frequently with some months.
2) Engine power noticeably dropped when the speedo shut off and abruptly came back when the speedo came back up.
3) At first, it seemed to happen most often ~45 mph, but eventually happened at any speed
4) Failure period was random, anywhere from a split second to 30 sec or more at a time.
5) When the speedo was out for much time, the odometer reverted to "- - - -"
6) When the speedo was out, this sometimes made the engine stall when trying to idle.
7) If the speedo was out long enough, it would throw a code and set the malfunction indicator light. This could be reset by unplugging the battery.
8) First symptom happened about 95,000 miles. By 103,000, it was bad enough that it was hard to drive the car, primarily from the idle stalling side effect.
The new sensor worked flawlessly, and the driveability of the engine was noticeably improved. I suspect that there were many quick failures that did not move the speedometer needle noticeably but still screwed up the engine control.
Once I had the right tools (the locking pliers, basically), the job took about 20 minutes. Without the right tools, the job was impossible.