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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So back in 2008, my dealer told me I needed a new battery. And that my Focus takes a "special" battery. I was young and naive back then and didn't pay attention to what exactly he was saying.

Now it's 2014 and I need a new battery soon.

Does anyone know what he meant by "special" battery?

I have a 2006 ZX3 SE 2.0 liter.

Thanks.

EDIT: Just checked. I have a Motorcraft BXT-96R (500 CCA). What is so "special" about this battery?
 

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lol Don't you just love dealers! You can go with pretty much whatever battery would fit. Just make sure it will fit your battery box and compare batteries to find the best CCA value per dollar spent. I would go with a diehard gold (increased cost but excellent battery) or a kirkland brand (decreased cost and close to the quality of a diehard). Your dealer was blowing smoke my friend.
 

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Moved to "General Technical Chat". Just go to any auto parts store and they can hook you up with that so called "special" battery for the same price as they would charge for a normal battery lol.
 

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There are many group sizes that fit in there just fine. Too many shady dealership take advantage of their customers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've been looking at batteries online and some of them have the terminals (if you're looking down on the top of the battery) on the bottom, or the side closest to the front of the hood. My current Motorcraft battery has the terminals on the top, or side closest to the dash. I'm wondering if he meant that I need a battery with terminals on the dash side so they can fit inside the plastic battery box this car has. But I'm wondering if I can just turn a non-Motorcraft battery around 180 degrees and make it work? Or, I can just get this one, which has the proper orientation: http://www.sears.com/diehard-automotive-battery-group-size-96r-price/p-02851395000P
 

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The "96R" in the part number is the important thing. That tells the size and the terminal arrangement. Get another 96R with good CCA. I like to get one that has a good warranty too because batteries only tend to last 4 to 5 years in the Texas heat. I just replaced my battery. It had a 84 month warranty and I got $29 credit towards the new one so it only cost me $62.
 

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Yeah, after several years selling parts you realize here in Texas the heat kills more batteries by far than the cold of winter does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I live in Northern Michigan, so I have to worry about cold more than heat. My current batt is 500 CCA. I'm thinking 590 or 600 would be better. I've heard that there really isn't a need for 700 or more unless you're in Canada or Alaska.
 

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Yeah, after several years selling parts you realize here in Texas the heat kills more batteries by far than the cold of winter does.
This^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I live in Northern Michigan, so I have to worry about cold more than heat. My current batt is 500 CCA. I'm thinking 590 or 600 would be better. I've heard that there really isn't a need for 700 or more unless you're in Canada or Alaska.
I'd get a 590 cca.
 

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i think i know what hes talking about, i bought an xs power 3400...the posts need to be reversed to be put in our cars or you need to find extra length in the wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i think i know what hes talking about, i bought an xs power 3400...the posts need to be reversed to be put in our cars or you need to find extra length in the wires
Yeah, I figured it had something to do with the posts being able to exit the proper holes in that silly plastic housing box.
 

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I get rid of that silly plastic battery box on everything I have, it retains too much heat to damage things in my view.
 

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I get rid of that silly plastic battery box on everything I have, it retains too much heat to damage things in my view.
That cover/box is actually a heat shield to protect the battery.
 

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You should take note of the fact that MANY Foci melt the first couple inches of the positive battery cable UNDER that supposed heat shield. Some even caught on fire UNDER shield, there was a recall over it. Sometimes an intended thing has the opposite effect, I toss that shield and no more problems whatsoever. In that case the cover prevents air off fans from cooling the battery area. Add to that the OEM battery cable is slightly too small and it adds up to melt city, both mine had melted covers and on the INSIDE. I rigged larger cables and no battery cover and problem has been gone for years. Problem most likely that hot exhaust air goes around engine corner to stack up under the cover end and since no air flow there to purge it, melts things. Cover also holds in rising ATX heat, pull it and that can mix with cooler air off rad. Radiator temp 210, ATX temp 250-300. Exhaust manifold/cat maybe 700-800.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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The battery cover was designed to "pretty" things up under the hood. What do you think what engine covers were designed for?

Aesthetics.
 

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As long as we're nattering on here....

Battery cover does have a safety function, to help prevent shorting of the positive to ground in an accident that might push the hood down onto it. Some version is often a requirement in racing for that reason.

Engine covers are for noise reduction & prettiness, that's about it.
 

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X2 and a major reason. The reason for the cheap strap as well, and for rollover crashes. They pretty much jam the terminals against the hoods nowadays. You can flip one of these batteries around and it gets horrible then. At accident time I redid a custom battery tray that was like two inches lower and now can put anything in there I want.
 

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Yeah different batteries have different terminal arrangements; Most common on the top. Some on top on one side, some on top other side, some on top diagonally, Then you got special side terminal batteries..
So yeah the correct (easy) fit may need a certain odd battery.
But most car jockeys can fit any battery that you can squeeze in it they screw around enough. (adding length to a battery cable is a pretty iffy thing though.)
You DO want the battery clamped down.
And at least the plus terminal covered....
 

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My racecar battery is mounted behind the seat in a marine-type plastic box. Minimizes the risk of it getting squashed in a crash and leaking acid, or shorting against anything.

My street car has a little plastic cover over each terminal. If you don't have them, they're easy to pull off a junkyard car for under $1. Plenty of protection for non-racing applications, IMHO.
 
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