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Discussion Starter #21
Leo - I assume if you're swapping out a Zetec and into a Duratec - you would need to swap out the harness and the central electric box?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Matt - you have a PM
 

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I would go with the 2.0L duratec but don't use the cossie intake mani because that will hurt your torque and that will not allow you to be as fast as you can be. I am removing my 2.3L duratec and installing a 2.0L duratec with our on F2 head. We will have figures and cost after Dec 18. I expect great numbers and awesome performance numbers.....

And ofcourse the 2.0L and 2.3L duratec engines are interchangeable
 

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it hurts power? im curious at something, i would probably have the car tuned with every part i put on it to optimize the power and torque curves, would the cossie manifold make more power if it was tuned to work with the cams, valve springs, intake, F2 stepped exhaust, and FRP head?

another question, does the spec focus develop enough g's to warrant the use of an accusump set up? how does my build list look?

2005 Ford Focus ZX3 $6,500

Engine 2.0 Duratec
F2 Stepped Exhaust header $325
F2/Custom Cold Air intake $150
Cosworth Intake manifold $650
Custom 2.5in Exhaust $210
Accusump 3 quart $310
Ford Racing CNC Head $950
Crane Cams/valve spings and retainers $725
SCT Xcalibrator 3 Tuner $400
CFM 67mm Throttle Body $250
Prothane Poly Engine Bushing Kit $19

Suspension
Eibach Pro-System Plus $720
Prothane Poly Bushing Kit $195
Ford Racing Rear Subframe $195

Brakes
SVT Brake Kit $850
Hawk HPS Race PadsFront and Rear $185
3.5in Neoprene Aeroduct Hose $65
Stainless Steel Brake Lines $115

Wheels and Tires
SVT Euro 17x7 Wheels $400
Toyo RA1 205/40-17 (shaved) $770

Drivetrain
Torsen T2 Differential $510
4.06 Final Drive Kit $120

Safety
2.40L Alloy Hand Held Extinguisher $120
G-Force Cam-lock Harness $135
Corbeau FX1 Seat $300
Corbeau Seat mount $100
F2 Racing Roll Cage $1,750

Interior
G2X Racepac Data Aqusition $950
OMP WRC Steering Wheel $190
Summit Premium Battery Relocation Kit $110
OMP Steering Wheel Mount $72

Fluids
Royal Purple Manual Transmission fluid $45
Royal Purple Purple Ice $13
Royal Purple XRP 5W30 Synthetic Motor Oil $65

* - indicates something not needed but would be nice to have $2,281

Total $18,464
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Some thoughts in no particular order

Overall cost - your build sheet is showing almost $2500 for the intake, head, and cams, and doesn't include the various gaskets, fasteners and the like. It seems to me that selling the 2.0 and dropping in a 2.3 would have a total cost of less than half of that - plus it's a lot less work.

If you go with the 2.0 - please take note of the following:

1) The only legal 2.0 head/intake are the FRRP head and Cosworth intake. We expect F2 to be submitting information to homologate the head and perhaps the intake, but haven't seen anything from them yet. Don't have enough knowledge regarding relative performance advantage/dis-advantage of the cosworth manifold. However, I would either build the rest of the car out and wait for the F2 head homologation, or else go with the FRRP or swap the 2.3

2) Accusump not needed - though for piece of mind go for it if you want. I would think that an oil cooler (Focussport has one for $150 or so) would be a better first investment. However, you will need to upgrade their oil lines from hose clamp ends to a crimped connection.

3) Xcal's can be had cheaper than $400 - try Central Florida Motorsports or Focussport or others

4) Used 67mm TB's can be had for around $175 - see classifieds

5) There are better (though perhaps not cheaper) suspensions than the eibach. The multimatic kit is stiffer and not a whole lot more money

6) Get the Toyo R888 215/45/17 tires. The RA1 tires aren't legal after July 1. If you have them shaved, you may want to think about a second set of wheels with full tread R888's for use in the rain.

7) Make sure you factor in welding costs for the cage. Not sure if it's a bolt in, but you should still weld the feet to the frame of the car.

8) Budget $1k for a HANS or similar. NASA and or SCCA may require it for 2008, but it could save your life.

9) Personally, I think the Hawk HT10's are a better pad than the HPS. The HPS are really a glorified street pad. HT10's work much better when hot - more bite, less fade

10) Love my G2X - but it's a nice to have for your first year. Save the cash and put it into seat time.

11) Good to see if that you have the SS brake lines - they are a must.


Otherwise - list looks very complete - you've done your homework. [headbang]
 

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yeah i learned a lot from my first track car build, a 93 MR2 turbo, now i want to get into W2W racing. but i was thinking i could cut about 2200 bucks out of that list of stuff that id like to have but dont nessisarlly need, i could put that elseware for the moment and maybe put it into seat time. another thing would be that the car will me basically my indestructable HPDE car. i cringe when i put the MR2 off, but i cant say that i would do the same if i put the focus off the road.



quick pic of the old car.... it was pretty heavilly modded... i estimated on the cage, but that price 1750 is the price on F2's site for a MIG welded cage, but i wish that i could find someone who makes a weld-it-yourself cage for the focus, because i can weld tig or mig. i know the poly motor mounts would be a must, i broke one when i had my 2005, but would the poly suspension bushings be absolutly neessiary? also have you ran into any issues about the brakes fading to the point where youd like to have brake ducts? i have them listed and i know how id build them, just wondering if you use them or would want to use them? yeah i figured that there was a better suspension, but i like that fact that it comes with everything needed, shocks springs, and antiroll bars, not to mention i have good expiernce with the kit, i put it on a freind of mines focus and i loved the way it rode and drove. granted i never drove it on a track, but i know how easy the whole thing is to install. i found an xcal 3 for 400 at steeda, and i was reading over the features and it seems like the xcal 3 is the only one that allows for custom tuning by a tuner, most likely my engine tuner for the MR2 would become my tuner for my spec foucs. if there is any other way of doing custom tuning please let me know, i never got into engine tuning on my focus. i agree on the SS lines, made a HUGE diff on the MR2, by the way does EBC make red or yellow brake pads for the focus? thanks for answers!

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #27
- Livermore performance has (I think) the weld it yourself cage for about $900 IIRC.

- Polyurethane suspension bushings not needed IMO. If you have everything apart, go ahead and do them - but the cars are relatively soft and the bushings aren't that much firmer than stock.

- My rear mount is gone too...Poly is a must there. Know who sells them?

- You're right on the xcal

- I'm going to run brake ducts for 2008. I had some fade on hot days, but I'm not sure if it was really fade or else pad knockback from the caliper flexing. I'm making my own using the fog light holes and PVC pipe. These cars brake really well. Re-reading your post, the 2005 cars have the same calipers (I believe) as the SVT rally kit - the only difference is that the kit's brakes are 335 mm disks vs. 320 or so for the 2005 OEM disks. Save the $800 on that - I had no issues sticking with, or sometimes outbraking the cars with the kit even on the long straights at Mid-Ohio (120 mph -->> 40mph)

- No idea on EBC's as I haven't used them. I'd personally be running Performance Friction 97's as they are my favorites from my Porsche days, but they don't make them for this application. Note - to get my HT10's to fit the front calipers, I had to grind the backing plates a touch to get them to fit in the guide channels. Unfortunatly, there are not a whole lot of people making brakes for the 05-07 cars.

On the other hand -Hawk gives good contingency money. Winner at the nationals got $500 and they paid me $150 for 4th [:D]
 

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http://focus.c-f-m.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=53

/\ i think thats the correct bushing but cfm has a bunch more

so on the brakes, i will probably start with a base model 2005 zx3, which means 320 rotors upfront and rear drums, i can either swap in an SVT front and rear kit, or just do an SVT rear kit? i was going to do the SVT whole kit just so that it would be easy to find brake pads in more performace oriented compounds, or is this a wrong assumption? i would think that the 335mm disks would probably help with fade as well, considering that there is a larger area exposed to air, as well, the brakes would probably be a little more catchy,being that the rotors are larger, and ultimatly can create more braking torque, however, are the calipers identical for the rally kit and SVT kit? also is the brake balance pretty good in the car or would tuning the balance with brake pads perhaps help as brake balance adjusters are illegal? any other thoughts on the braking? any other thoughts on the braking?

hmmm...oh yeah can you relocate the battery? like to the spare wheel well with the use of a sealed battery box? out of curiousty i mention the tuner, because of above posts and such im pretty convinced 2.3 is the way to go, so with a header, cold air intake, and exhaust would i really need a custom tune to make the 160-165whp rule? thanks

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You may want to look into getting the rear brakes/disks/calipers from the junkyard. '05 fronts were running about $30 in my area, so you could probably pick up everything you need for maybe $200? As to other information on what the SVT brake kits come with, check with Leo Capaldi ("LCR"on this board) as he's a site sponsor and the series director.

Brake balance is pretty good, but go with the most agressive rear pads you can find. Every little bit helps for turn-in. You'll still have to trail brake the crap out of the car to make it turn, though. It almost has to be pitched into the corner rally style.

Most of the cars have the battery relocated to the tire well. However, you may want to look into one of the lighter weight batteries such as the oddyssey brand, as getting the car down to weight is going to be a challenge. If you want to be at the minimum (2650 with the 2.3), you'll need to pull the windows and window lifts off the car as well as anything else you can find. AC, and maybe even the HVAC system. The oddysey that I have (sorry - forget the model - 680 maybe?) weighs about 12 pounds vs. the 30+ for stock. Plus it's a gel model so you can mount it in any orientation.

If you can get 160-165 on a dynojet -you're going to spend a lot of time on the dyno and swapping in exhausts and the like. Strong cars will be mid 150's with just bolt ons. Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?[rofl]
 

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this seems like it would be a very expensive option but what would you think about for a eibach dampers and springs in the front, and a multimatic dampers and springs in the rear to help with rotation? just babling really...

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Definately would work - but I think that you'd really be lacking enough spring up front to control body roll/contact patch - what you gain in the rear you'd lose at the front.

There is a new set of springs - M-5560-ZXM - out for this year that are a replacement for the multimatic springs, but drop the car another 1/2 inch or so more than the multimatics. Also may be a touch stiffer as well. I'm putting them on my car. I think they are around $200 or so, so picking up a set to mix and match with your current springs is definately do-able and cheap. Not sure if they are available yet, but should be available by Jan 1. Check with Capaldi, McNews, CFM, or any of the other sponsors on the board.
 

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the anti-roll bars arent limited to being unmodified, only that they are under a certain diameter, i wonder if it matters if they are hollow or soild? also i could weld in an adjustment bar, and calculate the different roll stiffnesses and figure out the balance of front to rear roll stiffnesses, i think that becuase its a spec suspension we need to figure out a way to optimize it... would it be out of the rules to put small washers between the upper strut mount and the shock tower to corner balance the car? ive heard of someone doing this before with good results, however im not entirely sure about the legallity in our series. or maybe imthinking to hard and i should just build the car and have fun. anyways just random ideas.. have you driven on the R888's? ive heard they stick harder than the RA1's which i have driven on.... i think that i could analzye the exhaust system and header on wave and fluent, along the the cold-air intake, and optimize them and maybe come close to the power i want. if you can tell i like expirementing and figuring stuff out, im on the FSAE team at UTA, we are in the process of building our 2008 car and im getting inspired with some of their ideas

Matt
 

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Or you can just purchase one of our cars that is for sale and it is turn key ready to go.......

As for the Cossie manifold there is a lot of data that shows you lose torque with the manifold...even if you tune the car with all of the parts you will still see lower torque numbers than compared to stock. To see what I am talking about take a look at the FS turbo kits with stock and cossie manifolds. Again please note this manifold is a great product but ideally works better and flows best above 8,000 rpms.....




Even though these cars will be used through out the year these cars are also for sale. With the addition of a 2008 Sedan and another 08 later in the year we figured we would put this out for someone that might want to purchase Spec Focus Race Cars.

One is a 2003 (w/05 Front End) and the other is 2001 Focus, both are ZX3's with Full cages and race seats and nets on window and right side seat net. Below is a brief list of the items each has....

2003 Focus:
2.3L Duratec Engine
5-speed with Torsen
Full Cage w/fire system
Tow hooks front and rear
Built to full spec rules.....
AIM Digital Display
Sparco Seats and OMP steering wheel
Toyo R888 tires
Lexan Driver and passenger windows
Still can be driven in the street as it is still registered
Car has 12,000 miles


2001 Focus:
2.0L Zetec Engine w/racing head
Full cage with w/fire system
complete ac system still working
aftermarket radio still works
Sparco Seats and Sparco Racing wheel
Toyo R888 tires
The car has a salvaged title but still street driven
Car has 54,000 miles
Tow hooks front and rear
5-speed with Torsen and Ring and pinion
Built to spec rules.

Both cars are ready to race for next season and are also ready for sale. The best option for a turn key race car that you can still drive on the street for a bargain price given everything you are getting.

Both cars a available for $8500.00 each (firm on the price), by far the best bargain for the dollar! Please call us at 562-698-3000 or e-mail us at [email protected].....thanks and take care.
 

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well that deffinatly sounds like an option, ijust need to get rid of the MR2

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #35
the anti-roll bars arent limited to being unmodified, only that they are under a certain diameter, i wonder if it matters if they are hollow or soild?
Solid or hollow doesn't matter. As long as the front 21mm or less and the rear is 25mm or less, you're good.

would it be out of the rules to put small washers between the upper strut mount and the shock tower to corner balance the car? ive heard of someone doing this before with good results, however im not entirely sure about the legallity in our series
As I read the rules, there's nothing wrong with doing this - you just need to trade off the the change in ride height vs. the better balanced car. My thought is that this would be overthinking the solution. The ride height is high anyway.

or maybe im thinking to hard and i should just build the car and have fun.
[:p]

have you driven on the R888's? ive heard they stick harder than the RA1's which i have driven on....
Ford's report is that they stick better - will know in February

i think that i could analzye the exhaust system and header on wave and fluent, along the the cold-air intake, and optimize them and maybe come close to the power i want. if you can tell i like expirementing and figuring stuff out, im on the FSAE team at UTA, we are in the process of building our 2008 car and im getting inspired with some of their ideas
Yup - if you can solve this one and make reliable power - you'll have a line of customers lined up, starting with me ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Or you can just purchase one of our cars that is for sale and it is turn key ready to go.......
I'm with Ricardo - ALWAYS cheaper to buy a car than to build your own. Ask me how I know. [bigcry]

FWIW - I had my car shipped from San Diego to Virginia - cost was just under $600
 

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Solid or hollow doesn't matter. As long as the front 21mm or less and the rear is 25mm or less, you're good.



As I read the rules, there's nothing wrong with doing this - you just need to trade off the the change in ride height vs. the better balanced car. My thought is that this would be overthinking the solution. The ride height is high anyway.

[:p]

Ford's report is that they stick better - will know in February



Yup - if you can solve this one and make reliable power - you'll have a line of customers lined up, starting with me ;-)
the front sway bar is 22mm limit... im guessing that you cant change the pick-up point for the sway bar in the rear, rules mention nothing to say you cant? because you could make the car rotate much better, you have to have a huge rear sway bar because of the terrible placement, but if you could shift it out an inch or two, the rear sway would be i would imagaine it would be 50-60% more effective, making the car turn in and rotate rather easily

the ride height difference would be about a 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch difference, so i dont find it to be unreasonable, also i drove a good freind of mines spec miata before and after corner weighting... huge difference.

i could deffinatly work on the exhaust, i figured out an exhaust for my WRX and it picked up 13whp 14lb-ft of torque, and it only weighed 9lbs, then i sold the exhuast because some guy loved it, i didnt really like the sound anyways, but i could deff build one for the focus, im thinking 2.5in with a mangnaflow flow-though race muffler but ill so some more research.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Here's the swaybar rule:

Rear anti roll bar diameter may not exceed 25 mm. Rear end link and bushing material may be changed but must mount to the anti roll bar and subframe in the original manner with a through-bolt and sandwiched, non-adjustable flexible bushings
 

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so it must mount to the subframe in the same manner, but the pick-up point along the control arms can be changed im guessing as it is not defined as a limitation, my guess is that you could easly make the rear sway bar more effctive in this manner

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I think you'll run afoul of the of the "no other changes are permitted" that aren't specifically allowed catch-all rule. See section 18 of the rules.
 
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