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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
At first I thought I had a bearing or some kind of axle problem coming from my right foward tire area. After reading a lot of post I think I have a bad motor mount. I engaged the emergency break and put my car in reverse and noticed when I pushed on the right side of the engine the vibrating stopped.

After I drive my car for a while the vibrating stops, I think that has to do with the engine idaling higher when it's first sarted. I'm going to see if it vibrates when I accelerate hard.

If I'm wrong about the motor mount I would think it's a tie rod but I grabed the tire and tried to tug and pull on it and I didn't notice any play.

this is the thread I got good info from on this site:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174501&highlight=sound+wheel
 

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Funny thing I have the same problem, I have broke of a lug nut on the front right side. I start the car in the morning get a kinda hum vibrating sound ( thought maybe leaking spark plug wire) I pop the hood to see (hear) what is going on. I sit back in the car the noise (vibration ) gets a tad bit louder , get out again and it gets softer. I drive the car , for sure notice vibration when turning right ( power steering fluid is ok) , after x minutes on the freeway all sounds vibrations have gone away. When I pull into the parking lot at work I cannot replicate any sounds or vibrations, it only happens when cold (parked overnight). Anyone , how do I replace the lug nut , as this appears to be the first place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yup that's the same problem

I forgot to mention that it gets a lot worse when I turn right. But everything explained so far on this thread is what's happening to my car. I also checked to see if the vibrating happens when I accelerate hard but I didn't notice any.

When you say you have broke of a lug nut, what does that mean? Are you talking about one of the lugs on your tire rim? If that's the case all my lugs are ok but I hear the same sound.

Based on what I've read on other threads I have a strong suspicion it's a bad motor mount. My next guess would be the tie rod. also I made a mistake in my last post on this thread: I pushed on the right side of the engine and the vibrating stopped (passenger side) or above the right front tire. According to what one guy said on this site if you notice your engint vibrating more thatn a inch or 2.

This is a quote from whynotthinkwhynot (the person who has the picture of cats for their profile picture. No on both accounts. Bad motor mounts can cause a "thunk" but only under acceleration. The way to diagnose a bad motor mount is to engage the emergency brake, chock the wheels, and put the engine in gear. Have an assistant observe the engine movement. If the engine moves more than an inch or two in the engine compartment, then inspect the motor mounts closer. This is easier to do with an automatic transmission. The engine movement will be violent and you might even be able to see rips and tears in the upper motor mount if that is the damaged mount.

I'm going to check the motor mounts because I forgot yesterday. I will give updates as I find out more.
 

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Whoa, that's a difficult one.

First off. Domesplit, it's much better to get in touch with me using the PM system here on FF. I hardly ever check my yahoo email, and if I don't know who is sending me something on there I generally delete it with the 100 spams I get daily because I've used this email for like 10 years now.

The cats, well that's Fritz the Cat, and the girl is actually a dog, but you'd have to see the movie to understand that.

Well, a vibration can be due to a bad motor mount. You should be able to tell by the test I wrote about. Sometimes it makes a sound, but not every time. It depends on which mount is bad as to whether or not you hear a sound.

Vibration can be caused by other things. For example, I believe my van has developed a coolant leak into the combustion chamber of at least one cylinder. I'm hoping it's only the intake manifold. What happens is that the van is difficult to start, and runs with a horrible miss for a few minutes after starting. Once it warms up, the condition disappears. I found excess steam in the exhaust, but not horribly just yet. It's just a theory based on my experience with this particular engine, and I don't think that's your problem.

First off, if it was a motor mount, then the vibration would reappear at the specific engine rpm where you can feel it. That rpm is most likely to be on the low side, so you'd feel it at idle, but not while driving.

From what you wrote, it appears you have a bad transaxle mount, or rear motor mount. I'd inspect it visually for cracks or tears, and verify that is the problem using the motor mount test you quoted.

I'm sorry I can't offer more advice, but I'm better on extreme failures than on vibrations, clicking sounds, or other "sometimes" noises. There are times when these minor annoyance problems cost more money than extreme failures because you just keep throwing parts at the car to fix it- and nothing works. I have problems like this with my Focus, but I generally wait until the problem is severe enough for me to verify exactly what it is.

A hub, for example, will feel like a lot of things before you can verify it's actually the hub that's the problem. You might hear humming sounds like loud pavement while driving, notice a vibration when turning in the direction of the bad hub etc. Yet, when you jack that tire, and rotate the wheel with the bad hub- no sounds occur that identify the hub is bad. After changing the tires, wheel, rebalancing, alignment, and months of unanswered questions- the hub finally starts roaring, and when you rotate the wheel you can hear the bearings grumbling.

I'm sorry I can't give you more information than that, but that's how it is with some parts. As far as your tie rod, remove the wheel on that side, grasp the tie rod with your hand and see how it moves. It should move side to side- but not very easily. If the tie rod is floppy, just falling around without any force, then it's bad. You might even be able to hear a mid tone clank or tap just as the wheel starts to turn if you're standing beside the wheel. Generally, if you have a bad tie rod, you'll think it's an alignment problem, or out of balance wheel. You will also notice tire wear on the inside and outside of the tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that's actually good info. I'll double check everything and wait until I can narrow down the problem.
 

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Went to replace the broken wheel stud yesterday, in the process broke another one . Out of frustration drove the car to the dealer yesterday and left it there (on two studs). One other thing , my front right tire had a nail in it tire was low on air. Can't say I am looking forward to the call from the dealer though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Vibrating getting worse

Now the vibrating is getting worse, the vibration is constant now but it's worse when the car is cold. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet put i'm almost certain it's a bad motor mount. I'll post the problem when I solve it.

Also does anyone know how to fix a motor mount? Price? Can you fix a motor mount yourself? If so how long would it take? I've tried looking on this site on how to fix a motor mount but I haven't found anything, if anyone knows a link to a thread with this info it woud be nice if you posted it here.

This is another thread I'm going to follow: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2437786&posted=1#post2437786
 

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I also have the exact same issue - ZETEC, 120K miles, manual. I have it while sitting still at idle. It's amplified while driving and you drive through rolling type bumps - like a large speed bump or driving out of the driveway onto the street. As the car bounces the sound is louder. I replaced the lower mount, but it did not help. I did a little adjustment on the passenger side mount, and I was able to lessen the vibration. My confusion is that the passenger side mount looks fine. Is it possible it's bad, and I just can't tell? Is there some internal "magic" inside the mount that has failed?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How did you adjust the passenger side mount? You know that's what I think the problem is but I don't thinks it's a bad idea to just replace both of them because I'm sure the other mount is wearing down faster now. How did you get the lower mount replaced? how much did it cost you?
 

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Any mount adjustment or replacement requires a jack SECURELY under the engine.
Passenger Side Mount - Remove coolant tank, your will see the mount attached to the car with three 15mm bolts in a triangle formation. I loosened the one towards the front just a little. Then I loosened the other two enough so I can move the mount with a small pry bar (covered in a rag so I don't scratch the paint). I moved the mount slightly (1/2 cm) on the side that is loosened up the most. So basically I created a slight twist in the mount. I then tightened it up and started the engine to see if the vibration went away. This is trial and error, but it worked. I think the mount is on its way out, but this bought me a little more time. Picture http://www.mechanixtrix.com/Article/Article.aspx?ArticleID=10.

The lower mount is a little more to it. Jack up the car - on jack stands. Securely support the engine with a jack stand. The "dog bone" shaped mount is attached the back of the tranny. There are five bolts to remove. Slide the entire mount out and swap the dog bone out.

Each mount is about $40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Any mount adjustment or replacement requires a jack SECURELY under the engine.
Passenger Side Mount - Remove coolant tank, your will see the mount attached to the car with three 15mm bolts in a triangle formation. I loosened the one towards the front just a little. Then I loosened the other two enough so I can move the mount with a small pry bar (covered in a rag so I don't scratch the paint). I moved the mount slightly (1/2 cm) on the side that is loosened up the most. So basically I created a slight twist in the mount. I then tightened it up and started the engine to see if the vibration went away. This is trial and error, but it worked. I think the mount is on its way out, but this bought me a little more time. Picture http://www.mechanixtrix.com/Article/Article.aspx?ArticleID=10.

The lower mount is a little more to it. Jack up the car - on jack stands. Securely support the engine with a jack stand. The "dog bone" shaped mount is attached the back of the tranny. There are five bolts to remove. Slide the entire mount out and swap the dog bone out.

Each mount is about $40.
Very good information. I thought I would be spending a lot more. Next payday I will buy the passenger side mount and may buy the other 2 (3 mounts total?). That way I won't have to keep nickle and diming it. I still have to change my fuel filter but after I heard the noise starting I had to change the plan. Anything I do to try and fix this problem I will post here with the result. Thanks to all who is helping.
 

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Problem Solved!

The rumbling has stopped. I replaced the passenger side motor mount today and the loud sound has stopped. I did this on trial and error...and it was the only thing that made sense. Looking at the mount from every point normally visible the mount looked fine. But after removing it the rubber on the bottom side had separated from the metal portion of the mount. Therefore the engine vibration was resonating through the car. And when a rolling type bump was hit causing more downward pressure of the engine the sound got louder. Not sure what we learned, because the only way to see that the mount was bad was to remove it.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

Hope this helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Solved

I just bought a passenger side motor mount (OEM) and installed it. When I lifted the engine up the bottom of the old mount sorta dropped out! When I took it out I could see the rubber at the bottom was all torn out. it was only being held in by the engine weight.

I just want to say that before I knew what the problem was I looked at the mount. I took the plastic piece off the top and I noticed it was squishy (very soft) I was able to push it in about 2 or 3 inches. When I got the new mount I took the platic piece off the top and it was hard. So that is definately 1 of the checks you should perform when checking a motor mount.

Changing the motor mount was easy. All I needed was: 15mm short socket, 18mm long socket, extention for the socket and a ratchet wrench, a jack and a jack stand and 30 minutes of spare time.

My car is a 2002 Zetec.
 

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Thanks for detailing the passenger side mount replacement. I replaced it (the one under the coolant resevoir)....but it took me a while to get the three 15mm bolts loose, lots of WD40, waiting, tapping, etc. The 18mm nuts were not as hard to loosen.
Ford priced the mount at $107. I bought one from Advanced auto parts for about $48....hope it lasts. The car has 237,000 on it, so if I get 100,000 out of the cheapy, no problem.

Has anyone replaced the other mounts themself? Dog bone or torque arm? Are they harder to do than the front passenger side mount?
 

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Thanks for this thread. Replaced the mount, problem solved.

Also, when i took of the mount visually it looked great so I was really debating whether it was the problem but after I've installed the new one the car drives really well :)
 

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Thanks!!!

I just rear ended someone and sudenly my my car made that horrible grinding groaning noise when it was cold, and when I turned right. Mechanic spent 6 hours trying to figure it out, and I just figured it out after 10min of searching these forums. This should definitally be on a sticky, if it's not. I'm going to replace the passenger side mount, and hopefully get that upgraded dogbone in back, I've heard it's worth the money to get a stiffer mount. I cant wait!!!
 
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