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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone I'm new to the forum have been searching around here for a while but I haven't seen someone with the same issue. I have very close to driving this into a WALL!!! I usually work on jeeps and trucks but my girlfriend has a 2006 Ford Focus ZXW wagon 2.0L. With now 83,000 miles and bought it with 13,000 miles. I've maintained the car for the last 5 years she has owned it. It came time recently where I wanted to do all new brakes. First I started with the back installed new shoes, hardware and drums, I realized I messed up because I put the drums on with an impact gun馃榿. My fault! Luckily my brother who is my auto parts guy gave me a new set on the house! I installed them thru the correct procedure and torque spec. But the car when pressing on the brakes shakes like there is an earthquake. I have pulled the E brake handle up and can feel the same effect, I don't know what I did wrong I have watched 100,000 videos on replaceing the brakes and drums!....
...
What I know is the drums have grease that looks to be coming from the bearing inside which j know should not be there, but my fear is that if I get new drums for the 3rd time, whatever is going on will ruin those and I will be back to square one馃檭. Also when I did brakes and did the brake cylinders and bled them very well.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME BEFORE I LIGHT THIS CAR ON FIRE 馃敟 馃槴
 

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Rear wheel bearing is a sealed unit - there should be no grease outside of it.

There are lots of Focus drum brake 'how to's' on YT, etc, not a difficult job. The only part alot of folks miss is the rear adjusters can seize up (depending on where the car lives) and are not properly freed up. Its hard for me to say from your description whether you have bad parts, or put it together wrong, or there is grease where it shouldnt be, or ?

Paul
 

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What brand of brake drum?

As the post said above kind of hard to tell what's going on.
To me it sounds like your brake drum is out of round bad part.
When you slide the brake drum on to the spindle does it go on okay nice and straight, how does it spin is there any wobble?

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Discussion Starter #4
All the parts are lakeland auto parts store brand not sure who makes them cant remember, i put antisieze on the brake adjusters and made sure everything is how it should look to a T, the drums are questionable because A- I can see grease around the bearing meaning that the seal is ruptured (most likely from the vibration) i would think that they could be out of round but these are the second set I got. I can tell you that after the first time doing the brakes I adjusted the ebrake upfront and had the brake light on. Just recently I fully loosened the e brake and they adjusted the self adjusters are far as i can just enough for the drum to fit. I can also say this vibration shakes the whole entire car and sounds like there are nails in the tire thumbing very loud. Noise definitly coming from the brake area. I get my question is should I get OEM ford drums and new brakes and give it another try but the only thing left that could be off is the spindle? I'm just not sure the direction I should go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have one of them because before I drove the car on a 900 mile road trip I replaced the driver side drum because it was making a slight sqeak on acceleration then went away. But yes I do have one old drum
 

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Can you tell if the problem is one side or both sides?

Does it vibrate/shake when not braking?

It all started when I ____ (fill in the blank with as much info as possible).

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would say it is both sides because there is grease on the bearings in both drums. And like I said the whole car shakes, and no it only shakes when braking driving is it perfect.

It all started when I did the rear brakes and drums before that it stopped fine no shakes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also when I adjust the brakes put the drum on, is there anyway to adjust the brakes after that or any concrete way of knowing that the brakes are adjusted correctly.
 

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The adjusters are designed to self adjust on their own. So no need to put on too tight.
I would personally throw on the old brake drum and see if it at least helps with that one side.

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Discussion Starter #11
the old drum had a whining noise and vibration, I think I will get a new set of drums tommorow and go from there because I know there is play in the bearings and the car will not brake normal with the bearings moving like that, will update tommorow possibly if I can get the drums
 

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You assemble the brake adjusters as backed off as they possibly can be. The quadrant there MUST have clean teeth and be 100% free working with the little spring on it. NO lube of any kind on it. The brake then self adjusts to the required amount by pushing down the pedal 2-3 times to move the brake shoes out to the drum and done. No backing up needed and it does literally nothing on that design. You do NOT preadjust as they can be tight enough then to drag and then seize to not brake correctly. A slight amount of bearing grease spattered on the drum will do the same thing.

IIRC the later models may have a rear seal that goes with a drum, you should check on that, earlier ones do not. If not there and needs to be...............well, you can imagine that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The last time I was messing with the brakes I had someone press on the brake when I had the driver side drum off and could see the brakes moving and hear the adjuster click so I would assume it is working there. I think that my issue is when I put the drum on maybe it has a hard time fitting on the spindle which messes up the wheel bearing and goes back within a couple miles. I took the one old drum i had and I can pull the wheel bearing up and move it around which I don't think it should do, so the wheel bearings are bad but I think the spindle might be messing them up. Am I able to grease the spindle before hand?
 

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The rear wheel bearing consists of an outer race containing two tapered roller bearings and inner races. There should only be a tiny amount of axial play in the inner races (example):


The spindle does not need to be greased. I put a very thin coating of anti-sieze on the bearing inner races as having the one or both inner races sieze to the spindle is a common issue especially in rust belt areas.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good News Everyone!!! I went and purchased a set of drums today and when I bought them I also got a bottle of brake lubricant. I will list the exact procedure I used-
鈥 First I removed the old drums
鈥 cleaned the spindle with brake clean and a rag, checked out spindle to make sure there was no pitting or abnormality
鈥 I then put a light coat of brake lubricant on the spindle and bearing in the drum
鈥 Then slid the new drums on VERY CAREFULLY
鈥 I then used the correct procedure of spinning the drum counter-clockwise with using a torque wrench on the spindle nut to 173ft-lbs
鈥nstalled the tires, took her for a ride and it is as if I never had an issue, no vibrations, shakes or noises

I'm not sure what was causing this earthquake shake but they only thing I did differnt was clean the spindle and lube it. It could have been bad drums, i did notice it was a different looking (no numbers or writing in the inside) i am glad that the last job did it. I cannot thank everyone enough for the quick responses and feedback
The ford will live to see another day 馃
 

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Cool. I would say bad drums. Some companies just cannot make them right at all.
Glad you got it fixed.

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The ford will live to see another day 馃
(y)

Keep in mind that although the bearings in the original drum went 83K miles (and probably could have gone more) the bearings in the aftermarket drums you installed will probably go only 20-30K miles if you are lucky. All the aftermarket drums for MK1 Focus have very cheap wheel bearings that dont hold up. So keep an eye (and ear) to those bearings. You can buy fairly decent replacement wheel bearings but you need either a hub tamer kit or press to remove/install them from the drum casting.

Good luck
Paul
 

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The new drums not having any numbers or letters screams cheap Chinese crap, the numbers are given to show the maximum 'machine to' ID size and all good drums have it.

'There should only be a tiny amount of axial play in the inner races...'

Some have way more than that and will appear to be defective to the untrained. Like listening to the 'adjuster click' which you will NOT hear on these ever. The click is the normal action of the shoes and multiple springs taking up slack in various pieces and places when the brakes power up to be solid. The spring/clips that hold the center of shoes down always click as you are scrubbing sideways against a perforated surface there. The shoes themselves make a click noise too when scrubbing sideways.

X2 on the crap wheel bearings pre-pressed into drums, they are intended to only get you up and running and commonly can die again in a year. I warrantied thousands of them I bet. I for one will never use a preloaded drum.
 

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The Axial bearing was cocked when you tightened the spindle nut the first 2 times.

The the drums need to be spun in a counter clockwise direction as you start to seat the hub on the spindle otherwise the axial bearing does not seat properly. If you drove on a cocked bearing with the nut then it would need to be replaced. take the drum up snug with a ratchet and them torque it down in steps as you spin the drum.. I believe the spec is 173 Ft/Lbs.
Once you reach the spec spin the drum 10 revolutions counter clockwise and recheck the torque.
Put a little RTV on the edge of the dust cap when installing... It helps to keep the water out.

You did not mention if you changed the inner seal and reinstalled the inner seal ring or ABS tone ring from the original drum....Aftermarket drums do not come with those parts installed Not installing them will cause early bearing failure.. A new inner seal is about $75 ea and the seal ring is about $15 ea. As far as I know they are dealer only items.

Steve D
 
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