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Well exactly as the title says i don't want to spend $46.00 on an o2 sensor [hatchet] , mine has been throwing an on and off cel for about 1 and 1/2 months now for the front o2. Should i just leave it[paranoid] ...or should i buy a new one[xx(] ...(i used the search button couldn't find a direct result) plz halp!
 

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whats the cel for? If it was a cel for the downstream id say screw it you can make a cheater but i'd buy a new front O2..its the important one lol
 

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Replace it, my bank 1 sensor went out and the car ran like complete garbage.
 

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You can't change the sensors front to rear. They are keyed differently to prevent someone from screwing up the connection.
 

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I think the sensors have the same connector.

So just change them front to rear...............
Your right on. I replaced front and rear several days ago and they are the same plugs on the ZETEC.

Keep in mind these sensors constantly update your PCM to adjust fuel. I have found these on the net for 1/2 price same as the parts store. Anything less than replacing and having 2 good sensors = best case nothing. Worst case= crappy fuel mileage, crappy running engine, trash your cat.


Throw the dice[wrenchin]
 

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lhc_focus...

I just finished an engine swap and there was a difference between the sensors. The harness came from a 2000 Zetec. The harness for my old 2000 SPI also had keyed sensors. Was there a difference between years?
 

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Front O2 connector,sensor side; looking at pins inside

lock at 12 o'clock

key at 2 o'clock
key at 9 o'clock

2 top pins heater
2 bottom pins o2 sensor and ground
(right bottom o2 sensor, black;left bottom ground, grey)

Don't have rear sensor at moment.........
 

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OK, maybe you can swap the wires up at the connectors, but all that's going to do is cause the computer to read the front sensor as bank 2, and the rear sensor as bank 1. Now there will be a new CEL. Your computer is going to get some freaky signals that will likely confuse it.

O2 sensor 101: Your O2 sensor reads the oxygen in the exhaust through an electrochemical reaction that produces a small amount of voltage from .1 to 1v. The higher the voltage produced, the leaner the fuel burn appears to be to the computer. If you disconnect your sensor, the car will run rich. As the sensors get old, they tend to cause the engine to run richer.

Now since the first sensor is close to the intake manifold, and the second sensor is after the catalytic converter further down in the exhaust. The computer is not expecting the same reading from both of them because the oxygen content in the exhaust will be different after the converter. By swapping the two up, you're likely going to lose fuel economy, but hey, do what you want, it's your car. Just keep in mind that you're following along the same path of those people who disconnected all the vacuum hoses and fuel reclamation systems from their 80's feedback carburetors and thought that they were improving the design. [screwy]
 

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Move the sensors, not just the connectors.

The rear sensor doesn't take much abuse, compared to the front sensor. So you're troubleshooting the front sensor. If the problem moves to being the rear sensor, the sensor is definitely bad. If the ECU still thinks it's the front sensor, it's most likely not an O2 sensor problem, but something else.

If the problem goes away, you're fine.
 

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"penny wise. pound foolish". You don't want to spend money to make your car run properly. Instead you probably spend the same amount on the extra gasoline, because it's running rich.

But the main problem will come when your plates are due. In this state you won't get past the emission inspection with a CEL problem. And you can't just erase the code, then go for a test.....there's a thing called "readiness" built in, meaning you have to drive the car for a while before the emission test can be performed.

What usually happens then.....when you face losing the plates due to expiration, you'll madly start buying new parts, hoping something will fix the problem.

Penny wise, pound foolish...
 

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$46 for an O2 sensor is cheap. Just do it.
 

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Front O2 connector,sensor side; looking at pins inside

lock at 12 o'clock

key at 2 o'clock
key at 9 o'clock

2 top pins heater
2 bottom pins o2 sensor and ground
(right bottom o2 sensor, black;left bottom ground, grey)

Don't have rear sensor at moment.........
I will take a look at my rear sensor when I get home tonight.
 

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"penny wise. pound foolish". You don't want to spend money to make your car run properly. Instead you probably spend the same amount on the extra gasoline, because it's running rich.

But the main problem will come when your plates are due. In this state you won't get past the emission inspection with a CEL problem. And you can't just erase the code, then go for a test.....there's a thing called "readiness" built in, meaning you have to drive the car for a while before the emission test can be performed.

What usually happens then.....when you face losing the plates due to expiration, you'll madly start buying new parts, hoping something will fix the problem.

Penny wise, pound foolish...
must be a St. Louis thing because i just had my car inspected last month and they didn't do that. i got wrote up for not having a muffler, but when i told the guy that my car(SRT4) didn't come with any mufflers, he called the dealership to verify. no sniffer test, no OBDII test.


i do agree with you on the penny/pound thing. just spend the [email protected] money and fix your problem before something else gets messed up. not only will the car start running rich, but if you run it that way long enough, your catalytic converter will fail due to having to filter way more than it was intended to. then you are going to have to spend even more money to get that replaced. just spend the 46 bucks so that you won't have to spend 400 down the road you cheap [email protected]@ard.
 

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DO NOT use the $46 Bosch piece of shit "universal" O2 sensor.

Will it work on your SVT... yes
will it run as good as the $70 Ford O2 sensor.... not even close

The SVT's O2 sensors are a different calibration than the Zetec and the "universal" O2's that you get for $40 .... you can use the cheap ones but you will make less power and get less fuel milage.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^^ thanks for the tip....yeah we don't have emission tests in this state [neener]...car seems to run perfectly fine right now, the only reason i wouldn't just change it is because my funds SUCK my car payment mixed with the g/f's bday= zero funds [mecry]
 

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I have this too...just started a WEEK after the PWSC install...on/off/on/off...front O2 was the cause...I am DEF buying a Ford 02 when i get back.

any reason why?? maybe the tune is too rich and it clogged up the sensor?? I am getting retuned so hopefully that wont happen again......
 

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Just keep in mind that you're following along the same path of those people who disconnected all the vacuum hoses and fuel reclamation systems from their 80's feedback carburetors and thought that they were improving the design. [screwy]
My buddy bought a F-150 like this and it got 8 mpg with a 4.9L 300 straight 6, and if you drove it for longer than about 10 min it shot flames out the exhaust. Needless to say he fixed that very fast.
 

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My buddy bought a F-150 like this and it got 8 mpg with a 4.9L 300 straight 6, and if you drove it for longer than about 10 min it shot flames out the exhaust. Needless to say he fixed that very fast.
thats a good engine if its running great, I had the FI model in my 94' f150 and when the fuel pump was going(ie. running lean) I was getting close to 18 mpg belive it or not, but no power at all. then when I replaced the fuel pump it got down to 12, but the torqu it had amazed me[80?]
 
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