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Discussion Starter #1
I drive it like I stole it. bought it new in March 2007. 2.0L zx3
I live in vegas, it gets hot.

This summer was a tough one on the little car. the heavy rains we had 2 weeks ago may have been the silver bullet that killed it,

FSWerks CAI sucked up water and vapor locked it.. I got it running. sounded good. Swapped out fluids but yesterday I tossed a connecting rod through the bottom of the motor when takin off from a light.

Called my buddy. towed it, he called me telling me a junk dealer has a motor $550 6m/6000m warrenty. with 35k miles on it

not great but.. not bad...

Plans to flush new engine and put in my normal engine oils.. Mobile 1 Syn, and Royal Purple.

Engine mounts are 1 year old. so not changing them.I own FSwerks CAI, I have the fswerks stealth exaust.

was thinking about installing a underpully. but my main question is without spendin much since this is going to cost a bundle what should I consider..

is a 2.3L an option that is cost effective if so, other then the Block what should I consider replacing.. never explored the 2.3L can it take abuse.

should I just do a race headers since I do not need smog. and get a sct?

Would like some input before I buy the motor tomorrow.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Hydriliced it huh? That's why I run a Steeda SRI. I'd do the FSwerk's header, & CFM's UDP's. I not sure what it take's as far as ECU's= 20 to 23. I do a Poly dogbone for sure= lower engine mount. Good luck on your motor, you'll get it going again.
 

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I would recommend the 2.3L (D23) to anyone who's looking to replace their engine. It's a little less efficient as far as fuel economy is concerned, but the benefits from the power are worth it. If you buy one as is, it will give you an extra 20 horses over the 2.0L (D20).

If you have the money or the time, you could also look into re-building it with some forged pistons and rods. As well as deciding to build it for F/I (low comp piston) or NA (high comp piston).

Since you have a 2007, it will pretty much be a direct swap for you, however you will have to purchase the accessory belt for the D23 as well as the correct passenger motor mount (or use washers to raise your current one by 1/2 an inch), as the D23 is 1/2 an inch taller and the intermediate bracket for the passenger cv axel will not line up properly if you don’t. I would also recommend that you use the IM from your D20, so that you will not have to swap out your ECU and harness for the D23 equivalents. You will also have to drill a hole in the dip stick that is 1/2 an inch higher than the original hole to equate for the difference in height. Other than that, just swap all your accessories and sensors over to the new engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
there is no rebuilding the old engine, it her a hole in bottom the size of a coke can... are used 2.3l much more $ to install?


I already have the poly mounts...
 

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Hmmmmm
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2.3 is gunna be more of a hassle i would stick with the 2.0 unless you really want the 2.3
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am not doing the work, just over seeing it. I am having surgery on tuesday so I cannot work on cars for 2 months. I got a master tech doing it for me. When i found this guy I found gold... but do not want to make to much trouble for him... if a 2.3 isnt just a little bit of extra work I dont wanna bother.. but I am strongly considering the headers and UnderDrivePully kit. these seem easy.
 

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Hmmmmm
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than in that case do a 2.3, just do what the guy said above... just get a 2.3 dipstick and oil tube though...
 

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I was referring to rebuilding a 2.3L. Also you can't get the oil dipstick for the 2.3 as it is made for the 2.3 IM and will not bolt up correctly to your 2.0 IM. You have to drill a hole in the 2.0 dipstick tube if you are using the 2.0 IM.

I really wouldn't consider drilling a hole to be a lot of work, especially when you're talking about installing an engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so other then a Dip stick the 2.3L will bolt to the tranny... wire harnest will work too? just need to change computer? what about engine mounts?
 

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If you read what I wrote above you will realize that unless you are going to use the IM from the 2.3 engine, you will not need anything from the 2.3 other than the engine itself.

The 2.3 IM has a set of tumble flaps that the 2.0 IM does not have. Thus if you plan to use it you will need the harness and the ECU from the 2.3 in order to utilize it. That is why I recommended that you stick with your 2.0 IM and keep it simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea... seems like it will be a much greater hassle.. Just the motor was 550 for the 2.0L and its 800 just for the 2.3L Plus the other stuff you mention may run into another $300 to $500 by just guessing, so is 20hp worth $$500 to $800 on top of the cost... not sure if it is.. plus the extra labor.. 4 to 6 hours extra may run me another $300 so, 2.0L it is... but a CFM's UDP's for $250ish should be done now and a FSwerk's race header. these take little labor is my guess so its just parts...
 

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The washers to raise the engine mount will run you about $6, the accessory belt about $25, drilling the hole in the dipstick tube will run you 15 minutes of labor max. So~ really doesn't seem like much more money/work.

Although finding a 2.3 for a bargain price may prove tough because of the scarcity.
 

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As drunkyoda said when it comes time to things such as high compression NA setups or FI setups, the gains from the 2.3 increase exponentially over the 2.0.

However I don't know what your plans are so that's why I didn't mention them before.
 

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All you need is a tune for the lager engine and your done. You could even use the same head if you wanted or used the 2.3 one. That sucks dude. I dive mine hard and haven't ever hydro locked cause of the huge spash shield.

Also an under drive pulley wint really show that many benefits. Just ask turbo tom. And from my experiences you can cause problems from the accessories being under driven. Especially if you have an aftermarket stereo.
 

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I dont see a logical reason NOT to swap to 2.3, if you have the engine out and have the ability to go bigger with little to no hassle, why wouldnt you? It will be faster from the get go, then any other mods will give more gain. Also, if you ever decide to sell the car, it will sell quick and for good money since 2.3's werent available for your car.

Matt
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I agree go 2.3 more torque for the money and you will love it over that 2.0

So if I'm wrong correct me

List of what neededs to be done fore 2.3

Take all accessory and other parts attacked to block
Put 2.0 intake manifold on 2.3
Buy 2.3 pass motor mount(or buy 1/2 inch worth of washers) and acc belt
Redrill dip stick from 2.0 to fit 2.3

That is it
 

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Yes, that's pretty much it. If you have a 08+ then you will also need to swap the intake cam, as the position indicator for the cam is different than the older year models. Also it appears some 08+ models have an electronic thermostat, but that can simply be swapped over.

You can also do some other things, such as the popular BSD and draining the PCV system to the ground to stop all that gunk from gumming up the ports of your new engine, but of course these things aren't necessary. You will still get carbon buildup from the EVAP system and the injectors, but carbon doesn't really hurt valves like gunk will.
 

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Focal Distortion
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GoodwrenchEG, sorry to here about your motor. I also live in Vegas and didn't have any problems with the rain, I'm lowered w/FSWerks CAI and drive about 150 miles a day on average. If you need any other help with your car feel free to reach out to your local focus club, Focal Distortion and we will help you in anyway we can.
Thanks
Bob
 

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milage on the blown engine? i blew my 07 d20 in 24k...
 
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