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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got the car to start, fixed the transmission llinkage clip and drove to the store down the street :) Brought the car back to where i was working on it and tried to start it up again, nothing. Pulled the starter and one of the two nuts holding on that clip wiggled off..dk how. Anyways i put the starter back on and the car cranks fine again. However no i get no spark...same place i was at last week. Before my problem was a bad engine ground. However, the engine ground now is in the correct location. Bought a new crank sensor, still nothing. I have new plugs and wires as well. I can hear the pump turn on and smell the gas. What i do notice is the battery light coming on when i crank the car over. Its very odd to me that i drove the car about 2 miles, started it up 3 times and then nothing only 30 minutes later. Any help is great, going on my 4th week without a car :(
 

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do you have a volt meter? check the bettery voltage makesure your getting 12v. that is all i can think of, hopefully someone else will chime in for ya.
 

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Try cleaning up the leads to the batery and see if that solves the problem. If not try swapping to another batery to see if the batery itself could be causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cleaned the leads. Also tried jumping the battery like normal and then again with the neg on the engine to help ground it out. Nothing
 

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Discussion Starter #5
also, i do get power to the coil. I noticed that when i pulled the starter off the car the wire that grounds the starter to the solenoid..was corroded a little. Would that cause a no spark situation even though the starter is cranking and doing its job?
 

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also, i do get power to the coil. I noticed that when i pulled the starter off the car the wire that grounds the starter to the solenoid..was corroded a little. Would that cause a no spark situation even though the starter is cranking and doing its job?
No I don't think so. The bad ground at the starter would only cause the starter not to function properly. The other ground straps to the engine block should be sufficient for spark. You did hook those up right? There should've been at least one, if not 2-3, near the top of the block possibly off some accessory brackets.

Another FF with a Zetec I was helping had a no start issue that was related to some wiring connector nearby the battery. I have no freaking idea what it was, but she called it a plug. It was loose, she plugged it back in, and had no problems. It could be the freaking coil plug for all I know, but since I have a Duratec- I can't go look for what might cause the problem.

What kind of bad sound did you hear?

So am I getting this right, it's cranking, but not starting? And you've used a timing light to insure that you don't have spark? BTW, there are also el-cheapo spark plug wire testers that I recently saw in Autozone that will work for this. No matter what I'd verify that you do not have spark through some method. Then test the primary, pos and neg connection where the coil plugs in to the wiring harness for the proper resistance. After that you'll need an ohm meter that will test k-ohms to test the secondary which will be from the pos you just tested, to the output of the coil. Testing the coil is absolutely needed as it is the next thing to verify. If the coil passes the test, then the PCM must not be sending the signal to the coil. I'd expect a CEL to show up for either a disconnected or malfunctioning cam or crank position sensor.

I hope that helped some. I just diagnosed and repaired a failed spark issue in my work van. I nearly went out and bought a new coil- but decided to test it before going that route. It turns out that the coil was fine, and the rotor button had self destructed inside the distributor. Heckuva lot cheaper than a coil, but I had to pull the metal parts out with a magnet.
 

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so all the plugs are in the right place and snapped on? all plugs gapped the same? just asking some things that havent been asked that could be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea plugs are gapped right and connected. 20 minutes before this happened i was ridding high driving around town lol. AND, it ran fine, no problems at all. so basically heres the thing...car didnt start (only clicked), replaced starter (now cranks), no fire. Coil was working 20 minutes earlier as stated.

Battery ground to starter is reading wayyy higher with a voltmeter than the other engine/battery grounds (Normal?). I'm positive that i have no spark. Pulled the plugs and sprayed starter fluid, nothing. Fuel yes, compression yes, air yes, spark no. So i'm trying to see what went wrong in the starter removal/install process that caused this situation. Maybe its just me but there isnt really anything major in that process to cause this to happen.

Would the battery light pop up if a relay or fuse was bad? Fuses were fine but i'll swap some relays around 2m
 

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Discussion Starter #9
used a scanning tool and have no codes, used the cluster test and i get d262. From what i understand those codes are useless but i removed my glovebox to get at the ecu and i have a ton of tools in the pass seat...maybe it loosened a connection to the pcm...???
 

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I remember having a "starter failure" as a result of having a mildly dirty battery and the terminals being barely loose. It clicked just like you said. Don't know about the spark, but I just thought I would throw that out there.

I guess just double check that, and if you're using the little felt things to combat corrosion, take them off and try without them because sometimes it will interfere with the connection.
 

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Maybe its your key..It could be that coded key is'nt being read right.. locking the system down.. may have to reset the system...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
GOT IT TO RUNNN! AND drove it home :) i tried everything..literally everything so i resorted to the ol' screwdriver tap on everything lol. Shook and hit the coil and started up...mental car
 
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