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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I'm 280 miles into my break-in and currently have a issue with 10+ psi of boost.

Once I'm in boost for a good amount of time I start smoking, and immediately after words for quite sometime until I drive normally for a good 5-10+ mins in 2-3k rpm's. Also when this happens I lose vac at idle down to 15 from 22, but after I've drove for a few vac at idle goes back to normal.

I've done alot of testing, but haven't narrowed it down. I'm currently working on crankcase vac/release with pressure (check valve).

AFR is okay, oil pressure is okay..etc etc.
I did a test last week to see what kind of vac in the crankcase I had, and I had zero. Come to find out I had vented the cam cover and had forgot about the oil drains in the head causing no seal for the lower block. I went ahead and sealed the cam cover and now have 5-15in/hg of vac in the block while cruising. When I went into boost I did see around 3-6psi on the lower block. So I'm currently working on venting the block to the dry sump tank with a check valve.

I also drained the 10w 30 royal purple break-in, and am refillingl with 15w 40. A weird thing is when this happens, I can open the dry sump tank and see the oil in it giving off strong smoke fumes as well. I did notice another thing when I drained the oil, I only had about 1- 1.5qts of oil. I've had a few small leaks and hadn't been checking it. Although oil pressure has been fine (I can run as little as a 1/2 qt and still have pressure). The oil leaks have been worked out since.

Oil to hot because I was to low on oil?? I couldnt get a probe into the tank to see what temp it was at.
Other thoughts I have are, to thin of oil and/or not enough drive time on the block with vac on the lower portion to seat the rings. I more or less started right off the bat driving in boost, but didn't have this issue until about a month ago.
Possible saterated oil with fuel from tuning? The smoking/somewhat burning oil in the dry sump tank smells more like fuel then oil..but this could be a royal purple smell as well. I'm currently letting the drained oil settle to see if it seperates, I've already skimmed it for metal and so forth.

After I got the block vented like I want and I still have issues I might swap radiators and run oil through a tranny cooler input on the radiator.

Any input is appreciated. I've done alot of testing but having a hard time narrowing it down.

If someone wants me to post block/build specs I can.

I'm sorry this post is everywhere, I'm extremely tired and am finishing up a 70hr work week, and about to start another 70hr work week in less then 12hrs.

-Jarred
 

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Making boost on a fresh engine isnt wise in my opinion depending on rings , clearances etc may be part of you problem

What restrictor do you have on the turbo , with what your saying about it happening under boost then clearing up after time leads me to think turbo seals leaking under boost then taking time to burn out

Its very common to see smoke/smell in the res tanks with a dry sump because everything is being sucked into the tank from all over the engine , My opinion is your wasting your time to create Vac on the engine but you will have to play with that on and off the dyno to find that out for your self

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was running a -4 direct to the turbo, but when this started I put a restrictor on it. I believe its a .039"/1mm restrictor. I had thought of this too, but this wouldn't explain the loss of vac at idle when this is happening.

Only thing going to the dry sump tank is oil, no fumes. Crankcase was sealed previously with the cam cover vented to a catch can. After I found out I wasn't getting any vac on the lower crankcase and found it was venting through the cam cover because of the oil galleries. I sealed the cam cover off. The car runs amazingly better with it all sealed, even likes boost more. But I've only put a few miles on it this way and not enough to see if it seats or does anything for the piston rings.

I'm running total seal rings, and I'm leading to believe this may be my issue. But can't sort why this recently started happening.

I'm just not up for pulling some pistons and rods. I do still have my standard rings that came with the probe pistons. But this would totally ruin my week if not month haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Which port are you sourcing your vacuum readings from?
Talking about idle vac or crankcase vac?

Idle vac I have two different readings, one which megasquirt uses which is direct off the intake manifold and another for my full sweep autometer boost gauge which direct off of a vac block.

The crankcase sensor is direct off the front ventilation spot which I have block with a plate/ 1/8npt port/ map sensor.

I have not compared my boost gauge to megasquirts readings, which I should probably have done. [scratch]
 

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Did this start before or after you got Vac to the bottom of the engine , Have you done a compression/leak down test

The way the dry sump works is it sucks oil and air scavenges the pan and you get air pushed into the res tank as well so thats where you get the smell/fumes/smoke

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did this start before or after you got Vac to the bottom of the engine , Have you done a compression/leak down test

The way the dry sump works is it sucks oil and air scavenges the pan and you get air pushed into the res tank as well so thats where you get the smell/fumes/smoke

Tom
It started before, I've done leak down and compression test. All showed good. I've not done one with bad idle vac though or right after this has happened. I've only done it when the engine has run fine.

I'm switching to a thicker oil, I can see why the rings are unseating...seems so weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I still feel its turbo

Tom
I have John's old turbo, although I've had it for awhile I've put very few miles on it. I guess I can always pull the downpipe, wastegate and IC piping to see which show signs of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll just run open turbo mani, my neighbors already love me alot... I'll just make sure they haven't forgotten I'm over here [gunfire]

coat hanger turbo + open mani [mad]
 

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Sounds like the Turbo to me
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So tonight I got home and decided to refill the dry sump about half way..knowing I'll have to drain it in a few weeks for some oil line changes. Anyways, got it warming up..everything is fine...although Idle vac is alittle low 17-19 in/hg...then I get it warmed up for about 10 mins..then all sudden it puffed here, then it puffed there then it started puffing everywhere. So I turned it off, removed the wastegate and checked for oil residue. Didnt find anything, just the standard carbon crap. So I decided to start it up again...although it ran different because the megasquirt...no smoke coming from the of the header so I went and checked the tail pipe to see if it had anything coming out of it..and it had exhaust. So I then had the neighbor kid and I went to the engine bay and revved it. No smoke out of the header, but did have some ...atleast more noticable out of the tail pipe.

So next test will be turbo removed + mileage and driving hard..although this thing will be a dud without the power adder.

Hopefully sat I can get the turbo off and misc items fixed.

Oh ya, I sorta broke the cam cover tonight. Time to find a new metal contour cam cover :(

Anyway I've ruined the turbo seal from putting the restrictor on, or for never having one up until recently? Its a gt2860rs .86 a/r
If I go onto another turbo I'll probably go gtx3071r with a tial housing. But hoping I dont have to go that way, thats about 1600+ bucks I do not want to spend.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
question, if I remove the turbo from the mani..but leave it otherwise hooked up. And start the engine, will I be able to see oil gushing out of the hot side? or does the turbo need to be spinning in order to properly drain?
 

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In my opinion it would have to be spinning for the seals to leak

I dont think your going to see oil gusing you would be surprised to see how small amount of oil it takes to smoke a lot with the amount of heat there is at the exh side of the turbo

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ya I imagine its a small amount, I'll probably try it anyways. I've been pricing gtx3071/6r's and also a new chra for what I have. I think I'll probably stick with what I have 600 > 1200
 
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