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Focus Preacher
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I'm just posting to say thank you very much DoogieB.

I've ordered all the same parts like you. The setup is very good!

Also very nice tutorial!
 

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This is so awesome OP, thank you for taking the time to write this up. It's EXACTLY what I was looking for! I was about to drop over $1,000 for an auto shop to install inferior speakers without any amplifier. I would be kicking myself if I knew how cheap and easily I could do this myself!

I am planning to do this install over the weekend in my friend's warehouse. I don't really have any tools yet, so would be someone be so kind as to give me a really quick overview of what tools and/or materials I should purchase before I start this audio install? Besides the items that were listed in the tutorial of course. So far I know I need the following:

- Plastic molding removal tool
- Soldering iron / solder
- Hex tool

Is there anything else I should pick up before I begin?
 

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Focus Preacher
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3,408 Posts
This is so awesome OP, thank you for taking the time to write this up. It's EXACTLY what I was looking for! I was about to drop over $1,000 for an auto shop to install inferior speakers without any amplifier. I would be kicking myself if I knew how cheap and easily I could do this myself!

I am planning to do this install over the weekend in my friend's warehouse. I don't really have any tools yet, so would be someone be so kind as to give me a really quick overview of what tools and/or materials I should purchase before I start this audio install? Besides the items that were listed in the tutorial of course. So far I know I need the following:

- Plastic molding removal tool
- Soldering iron / solder
- Hex tool

Is there anything else I should pick up before I begin?
I didn't used the trim removal tool. (fork)
If you want, you can use your fingers and pull carefully you won't break a tab.

Get some electrical tape and shrink tubing (shrink tubing is opt. but its better for a clean, safe job)

Foam will help to keep things in place and prevent vibration of wires and crossover module (if you purchase the same speakers)

If you want i have some complementary pictures that OP didn't post.

EDIT: oh yeah, get a glue gun, you gonna need it to fit the tweeters.
 

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ELCouz, that would be awesome if you could post the complementary pictures that weren't in the OP thread, anything else would help a ton! Thanks for filling out my shopping list. How are the tweeters installed? Do you need to glue them into the bracket from the old ones, or just straight-up glue them to the frame?

This is super exciting for me, probably mundane to some of you guys. I love my Focus and upgrading the sound system will make it almost a perfect vehicle!
 

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Focus Preacher
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3,408 Posts
ELCouz, that would be awesome if you could post the complementary pictures that weren't in the OP thread, anything else would help a ton! Thanks for filling out my shopping list. How are the tweeters installed? Do you need to glue them into the bracket from the old ones, or just straight-up glue them to the frame?

This is super exciting for me, probably mundane to some of you guys. I love my Focus and upgrading the sound system will make it almost a perfect vehicle!
I will post pictures when I get back from work :)

Happy to help!
 

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Focus Preacher
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3,408 Posts
Here it is:

Rear speaker comparison (ewww)



Rear speaker installed



Front speaker comparison (freaking cheap!!)






Here the tweeter glued (wont fit, i broke some clips then glued it in position!)

Btw, the glue is not visible once the tweeter cover is installed [^]










Front speaker installed



Front speaker bracket close-up (drilled the bracket to pass the wires)




Glued Crossover (no vibration)



Little foam to remove door vibration







Subwoofer damn clean & invisible install!!

Seat removed



Passing the power wire



Battery terminal






Hidden AGU 80 amp fuse inside battery compartment










Firewall behind glove box






Amp installed (connected the ground to the seat screw after installing the seat) Amp trigger wire is on the ignition (i loose the subwoofer when radio continue with engine off, its ok i want to save the battery )

Also installed a switch on the amp trigger wire so i could turn it off and unplug my subwoofer to remove it from the trunk (if i need place)








The subwoofer (200w rms, enough for me :p )




Hope this help!
 

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Focus Preacher
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Everything is almost installed (running on the radio power for now) except the harness and the alpine ktp-445u...

Yet i see a problem with the DoogieB (OP) method.

KTP-445U require a 15 amp capable power source. I don't think the oem radio power gonna work. Might require a fused wire from the battery as a power source.

I will investigate this further regarding the fuse rating of the ford oem radio.



If its not like this you connected the ktp-455u, please DoogieB chime in.
 

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Everything is almost installed (running on the radio power for now) except the harness and the alpine ktp-445u...

Yet i see a problem with the DoogieB (OP) method.

KTP-445U require a 15 amp capable power source. I don't think the oem radio power gonna work. Might require a fused wire from the battery as a power source.

I will investigate this further regarding the fuse rating of the ford oem radio.



If its not like this you connected the ktp-455u, please DoogieB chime in.
When I did my ktp-455u I didn't need to run any extra wires. Everything was wired through the parrot harness to be plug and play. No problems so far and I have been running it since around the middle of March.
 

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Focus Preacher
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When I did my ktp-455u I didn't need to run any extra wires. Everything was wired through the parrot harness to be plug and play. No problems so far and I have been running it since around the middle of March.
You kept the 3 amp inline fuse from the parrot harness?
 

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You kept the 3 amp inline fuse from the parrot harness?
No that go chopped with the other parrot specific stuff. Then wired into the ktp-455u which does have its own fuse. The factory radio fuse I did not change and I believe it is rated for 15A. I have not smoked any fuses yet. From the stuff I read it said as long as the factory radio has a 15A fuse or higher installed from the factory it can draw right from the factory harness without the need for an extra power wire.
 

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Focus Preacher
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No that go chopped with the other parrot specific stuff. Then wired into the ktp-455u which does have its own fuse. The factory radio fuse I did not change and I believe it is rated for 15A. I have not smoked any fuses yet. From the stuff I read it said as long as the factory radio has a 15A fuse or higher installed from the factory it can draw right from the factory harness without the need for an extra power wire.
Understand that but the no go is here ...

From an electrical point of view, this is not good especially for a 16 awg wire.



I'm not here to say it wont work, of course it will work but only saying that for cover your ass.

15 amp is more than this small wire can handle.

At least for the sake of safety, remove the small wire and solder it directly to the bigger wire from the harness!!!

edit: correct me if the wire is the same size i haven't received the alpine yet, but i have the harness in front of me.
 

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Understand that but the no go is here ...

From an electrical point of view, this is not good especially for a 16 awg wire.



I'm not here to say it wont work, of course it will work but only saying that for cover your ass.

15 amp is more than this small wire can handle.

At least for the sake of safety, remove the small wire and solder it directly to the bigger wire from the harness!!!

edit: correct me if the wire is the same size i haven't received the alpine yet, but i have the harness in front of me.
The yellow wire on the Alpine amp was 16 awg the parrot harness is slightly smaller I can't remember how much smaller. I used a lot less of the parrot power wire than than the OP used. I only used like an inch I believe. I will have to pull it out of the dash and check.
 

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Focus Preacher
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The yellow wire on the Alpine amp was 16 awg the parrot harness is slightly smaller I can't remember how much smaller. I used a lot less of the parrot power wire than than the OP used. I only used like an inch I believe. I will have to pull it out of the dash and check.
I was measuring with my measuring tape, I don't have my caliper with me now.

Came half way between 16 awg and 18 awg, no marking on the wire.

Let say 18 gauge, it's worse but will work... let say you listen to extremely loud music for awhile (few hours), wire might overheat, insulator might become dry (with time), crumble off and create a short (it's protected) but still don't rely on a fuse to compensate for wire ampacity error.

I love my focus, damn I would be sad if my audio job set my car on fire few years from the installation. That's why I'm sharing my concerns here. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #95
The input plug of the KTP-445U will melt long before the insulation on the wires of the Parrot harness. That's assuming the dime-store crimps or shit soldering job aren't the first to go. This isn't a problem, however, because the KTP-445U uses very little power as it was made for this application. Heck, on my installation the level controls of the amp are turned the whole way down.

As always, fuses in a wiring harness are to protect the wires (and connectors) from a dead short.

Since you seem interesting in this, ElCouz, use a meter and check the average current draw of the KTP-445U while the amp is running and report back. This is easy enough to do with the wiring harness to tap into.
 

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Focus Preacher
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Yes I will check once I will receive the amp.

Also,I've planned to check the amp speaker output also with a scope to see the optimal gain (more easy to see distortion)


You guys have better ears than me hehe
 

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This isn't a problem, however, because the KTP-445U uses very little power as it was made for this application.
For the amplifier to output 45wx4 = 180w, it needs more than 180w input. 200w if it's 90% efficient.

200w / 13v = 15.4 amps required.
180w / 12.6v = 14.3 amps required.

If you don't have 13v and 15.4 amps at the input to the amp, then it won't put out 45w per channel - it's impossible.
And I didn't factor in the OEM head unit's current draw...it has to use a few amps (perhaps 5 amps = 65w?) at full volume.

Note that 10-20 feet of wire of 16-18 guage will drop 0.5 to 1v at 15 amps due to I*R loss on the wire. 16 guage has 6 ohms of resistence per 1000ft, 16 guage is 4 ohms per 1000 ft.

So let's say 5 ohms per 1000ft, and assume we have 10 feet of wire from the battery to the head unit (HU) and amp, and a short distance from the HU and amp to ground (I am unsure how long the gorund connection is).

So the resistence is 10/1000 * 5 = 0.05 ohms. Multiply by 15 amps = 0.75volts lost on the wiring between the battery and the HU (when playing at max volume).

Someone who has their car apart could measure the current draw and voltage at the input of the amp and HU (4 measurements)...would be interesting.
 

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Focus Preacher
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Couldn't test the current my dmm is rated max 10 amp and my dc clamp ammeter couldn't mesure well ( clamp are too big)

From what I've read max volume before unbearable I've got ~12.3 amps .

Peaks are difficult to measure, so much current fluctuation.



After an hour of testing and calibration, everything work very good.





Put everything back together... now front speakers are crackling.

Rear is okay, i can go high volume no problem but front higher volume level than 2 i get loud crackling, popping.

I think its a short.
 
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