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Discussion Starter #1
These things seem doomed to die, what with the crummy breakaway “safety prongs” holding the mirror in its “dressed” position, rather than flopping on the actual support bolt. I’m ready to remove the floppy RH mirror, drill a hole between the prongs, and bolt the sucker down. If anyone else has done this redneck repair, I’d appreciate any pointers you’d care to share. The pic below shows my attempt to salvage the prong using a Delta faucet valve seat doing. (Yeah, one flex too many for the yielded prong. ?). Thanks!
 

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Its not clear what you are showing or asking. The mirror is held to the door with TWO screws (one large, one small).

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TL;DR I want to know if anyone has made one of these mirrors secure AFTER the anchor prongs die, before I experiment. ?

Thanks for your response, sorry I wasn’t more clear (FWIW, I remember 1x 10mm bolt on my 2005 Zx5, but, eh, memory ?)

Rather than buy a replacement RH mirror assembly, I want to
A. Remove the mirror like I did when I first replaced it—I found a good video on YT.
B. Use the prong site to drill a locator hole from the cabin side; and
C. Secure the upper molding flush to the door with a screw, or maybe a bristly push fastener, (Those are black plastic, at least.)

The pic shows the attempt to insert the faucet spring to re-spread the plastic prongs that hold the upper end of the mirror molding flush in the corner of the door. It might’ve worked, had I tried it before the strained prong got flexed by a couple of attempts to plug it back in.
 

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2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
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I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. On my 06 zx3 a previous owner had obviously struck something with the mirror. When I tried mounting the replacement mirror it would not sit flush. The cure was to take a ball peen hammer and strike it with another hammer at the hole where the 10mm bolt came through. The metal is thin there and had pulled out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
On mine, the 10mm bolt & the T20 screw (my memory WAS bad!) only secure the bottom, leaving the “shark fin” to hang slightly away from the door—unless the anchor prongs are locked into their hole. In my two instances, clipping something with the mirror causes the plastic prongs to fail first—maybe to allow the mirror to survive & function. I can still adjust it, and see my blind spot, it just looks floppy & raggedy now.

I’m tempted to buy a manual fold ST mirror, that would (hopefully) just fold on impact, but I have to find out if the controls would still work; ST mirrors have wiring for heat, and my car doesn’t.
 

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There are a number of ways that mirror casing can be re-attached to the door even with the main bolt broken....You just gotta be willing to drill carefully located.
 

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Really best to just replace it..........
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback, folks. I know what I want to try (SUPER careful drilling), and I’ll try to document & post, either as a reference for, or a warning to, others.
 

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On mine, the 10mm bolt & the T20 screw (my memory WAS bad!) only secure the bottom, leaving the “shark fin” to hang slightly away from the door—unless the anchor prongs are locked into their hole. In my two instances, clipping something with the mirror causes the plastic prongs to fail first—maybe to allow the mirror to survive & function. I can still adjust it, and see my blind spot, it just looks floppy & raggedy now.

I’m tempted to buy a manual fold ST mirror, that would (hopefully) just fold on impact, but I have to find out if the controls would still work; ST mirrors have wiring for heat, and my car doesn’t.
Reg
I now see what you are getting at now. I replaced the non-heated mirrors on both my 02 and 05 with heated mirrors (02 had no factory wiring and the 05 was only partially wired) and have the 4 old non heated mirrors in my basement so I see the little clips/prongs you are asking about (haddent noticed them previously). On 3 of my 4 old mirrors at least one clip/prong is broken off - but since they werent 'flopping' I assume they broke when I removed the mirror.

So when you add a new screw/bolt are you going to have the head of the new screw/bolt visible on the oustide of the mirror 'sail'?

BTW your 2005 may be totally or partially wired from the factory for heated mirrors. The mirror heating element circuit goes thru three harnesses: doors, body, and power. The first and easiest place to start is at the door harnesses to look at the 5 contact connector for the mirror. Three wires (top row) are for mirror motors and two wires (bottom row) are for the heating element. Your car will either have only three wires or all five. Let me know.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #10
“....So when you add a new screw/bolt are you going to have the head of the new screw/bolt visible on the oustide of the mirror 'sail'?

BTW your 2005 may be totally or partially wired from the factory for heated mirrors. ...”

Yes, because I was *that* steamed at losing another passenger mirror ?. Later, I thought a large, plastic, “Christmas tree” push fastener would be more cosmetic, plus provide continued impact mitigation. I’m not so much worried about actually heating the mirror, as not wanting to lose the remote adjustment. (I’m a wimp about returns, lol.). What I *really* like is the idea of that folding joint preventing this whole nut roll in the future! But that’s almost $60, so I’ll try the Cheapo Protocol first.
 

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“....So when you add a new screw/bolt are you going to have the head of the new screw/bolt visible on the oustide of the mirror 'sail'?

BTW your 2005 may be totally or partially wired from the factory for heated mirrors. ...”

Yes, because I was *that* steamed at losing another passenger mirror ?. Later, I thought a large, plastic, “Christmas tree” push fastener would be more cosmetic, plus provide continued impact mitigation. I’m not so much worried about actually heating the mirror, as not wanting to lose the remote adjustment. (I’m a wimp about returns, lol.). What I *really* like is the idea of that folding joint preventing this whole nut roll in the future! But that’s almost $60, so I’ll try the Cheapo Protocol first.
Reg,
Good luck with your fix.

Since I have done a lot of research on heated mirror wiring on the 00-07 Id be curious if you could tell me if your 05 door harnesses are prewired for the heating element. All you need to do is look at the door harness half of the mirror connector and see if it has 5 wires/contacts or only 3 wires/contacts.

Thanks
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I *think* it had 5 wires, but my memory has already been established as spotty! I’ll update with results after tomorrow. And here is what I called a a Christmas tree push fastener: 2046381C-8414-4CC7-9637-9C8006A23C77_1539379332304.jpg
 

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Im not sure that fastener will be strong enough for your application. Let me know about the wires.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The upper attachment prongs turned out not to be the single point of failure due to hitting something. There is a well-reinforced plastic plate flush against the door, with the outer mirror and “shark fin” / sail making up another plate. Now imagine that Ford glued a series of perpendicular toilet paper tubes between these, and that’s your basic breakaway support system. Not all of these connectors remain perpendicular. You can see some in their holes, but the higher up the back of the sail you go, the more you see empty holes. Until I realigned the plates, the sail was bowed 1/2” out from the door. The hole next to the inspection sticker was the site of the late lamented prongs.
 

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Finally, the end result—marginally better than letting it flop. It just has to last until the new mirror arrives.
The replacement being a '02-'04 svt/'05-'07 st folding mirror?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It’s the 05-07 ST mirror according to 1AAuto: Ford Focus Mirror - 1AMRE03221

I’m going to check that the fuse for the defrost circuit can handle the (slightly) higher load. The wiring harness is probably common to a couple of trim lines to save on fabrication costs, but they could’ve THEN saved money on lower capacity fuse.

FWIW, the 1AAuto videos helped me change it the first time, too, so that’s another plus for this part. (1/4” socket worked for me on the door pull when 7mm wouldn’t— YMMV.)
 

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I'd also get the drivers side mirror also.
 

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It’s the 05-07 ST mirror according to 1AAuto: Ford Focus Mirror - 1AMRE03221

I’m going to check that the fuse for the defrost circuit can handle the (slightly) higher load. The wiring harness is probably common to a couple of trim lines to save on fabrication costs, but they could’ve THEN saved money on lower capacity fuse.



Reg,
The fuse for the side mirror heating elements is a separate fuse (F50,7.5A) from the one for the rear defroster grid (F49, 25A). Both fuses are powered thru the rear window defrost relay (R25).

The fact that the mirror connector has all 5 contacts/wires proves that your door harnesses are wired for the mirror heating elements. However the wiring from the CJB to the heating elements goes thru 3 harnesses: power harness, body harness, and front door harnesses. On my 2005 ZX4 - which did not come from the factory with heated mirrors - the car was wired from the factory for the door and body harnesses but not in the power harness (from the CJB to the LH A-pillar connector C210) so I needed to add that one wire. You may/may not find the same situation. The simplest test is to put one side of a 12V test light or DVOM on the power feed wire at the door harness mirror connector (LH: GRN/BLK, RH: GRN/ORG - as shown in your pic) and the other to the black ground wire in that connector and push the defrost switch in and see if it lights or have battery voltage. If not you will have some missing wires in one or more of the other harnesses (very common). Let me know and I can walk you thru finding what wires are needed.

BTW my car had F50 installed even though it did not come with heated mirrors and had the missing wire.

BTW2 my 2005 ZX4 is the same color as yours too.
Paul
 
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