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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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On way home today on I30 traveling about 70ish- I lost power for a short 2-3 seconds. Not electrical. the car Started to slow down is when I noticed it, let off the pedal and pressed back down, responded but did the 2-3 sec loss of power again but regained its spunk and drove home like normal.

Checked for DTC but found none other then 02 sensor heater troubles. Not sure if linked.
I am running a full tank of premium.
A side note is that recently I pulled of a coil pack and stretched a spring by mistake, not sure if is related.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update

Drove to store for tea bags and didn't make it over 50. On way there it did it again for about a mile and then it stopped. Got to store. Left store and didn't do it on way home.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ill run with my OBDII plugged up next time and monitor the sensors and fuel rail pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had another lose of power yesterday.

This time it accompanied by a flashing check engine light.
 

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Sounds like it's pulling timing. What's your code from the CEL? My bet is on knock sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Checked for dtc and found none. Going to AutoZone to get compression test. Tumbler flaps sound worse so engine may have eaten a piece. .. :-(
 

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That compression is fine. If a flap broke off, it would severely affect A/F ratio in one cylinder, but not get sucked up into the tiny little valves. IF the shaft on the tumbler flap assembly were to wear a hole in the side of the intake manifold you'd have a lean code along with a misfire code. That is what has happened to other people.

I assume it hasn't been very long since you changed your fuel filter. How did the fuel pressure test go? FP tests in these vehicles are difficult because of how the fuel pump works. You will see variations in FP.

A flashing CEL indicates a true misfire every cycle.

Pull the plugs, plug boots, and coils. Perform a resistance test on the coils. If you don't know the value to look for, just make sure all of them read similar. It will be a difficult test to do because you'll have to keep your tester on one power on the coil with the output. At a guess, I'd say 13 ohms is what you should find, but I wouldn't determine that less or more was wrong unless say 3 are 13 and one is 5 ohms. To make the test easier, find a small piece of stranded wire, push that over the top of your coil pin- carefully. Test the other end of the wire. That will be easier than trying to hold a tester pin on the coil pin. Don't push too hard, those coils are expensive!! I have seen where coils are much cheaper now on RockAuto, but those take a few days to get.

I am surprised that you don't have a misfire code since you had a flashing CEL.

I would also recommend that you pull the plugs and check the condition of the plug deposits. If one is strange, then look further into that cylinder as far as potential injector or coil issues.

As Mogul mentioned, check your crank sensor, but do not remove. Just make sure it's plugged in. You don't want to remove it until you know it's bad. OH, and I always check the black box of death when looking at plugs because it's in the same harness. That's your radio interference capacitor, and it should be mounted on a bracket near the front of the engine- follow the little black wire that comes out of the injector harness. If that wire shorts out before the box, it will blow a fuse that will kill the whole vehicle. The other end of the box should be grounded to the chassis.

The fact that you don't have a CEL but you had a hard misfire could be indicative of a bad crank position sensor or something else..... did you double check for DTCs using the electronic odometer trick? Perhaps your scanner is defunct.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Haven't performed a fp test. Only reading ive seen is from obd2 reader.
I pulled plugs when I compression tested and they only had a white substance on them and I assume thats normal. I did not check/change gap when I purchased them.
Black box of death lol. I mentioned this before, it ls wires are pulled out or bare on one end but it is there connected and has been tapped so atnto not short. Its grounded to frame. Ground wire is frayed, not the one connecting it to harness.
True, no codes or pending codes.
Coil test- ohms check touching one prong on pin in connector and the other prong on the spring?
Ive a coil pack that I pulled a D20 ZX4 that I can use as replacement if one is bad.

Update later, at work. Till then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Home.
Checked DTC using test mode and got a 9318 which indicates battery voltage low according to the website I read.

B1318 9318 Battery Voltage Low

I had my battery/alternator tested and was told battery good but alternator dropped a few points. This was like 3 weeks ago.

Gonna find out where that sensor is you're speaking of and check its plugged in good. Also about to test coil packs.


Got to looking around and found this bit of information.

http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthread.php?3741-Advanced-spark-timing-for-your-Ford-Duratec-Mazda-MZR-engine-power-for-free said:
That would be the crank angle sensor.

CAS's exist in cars without distributors. The function is more or less the same.

A distributor controls spark to each plug. A rotor button spins and shorts out the coil to 4 contacts which connect to each lead / plug, thus firing each spark plug in order.

Cars with multiple coils / ECU triggered spark use a CAS so it knows the position and speed of the crankshaft / camshafts / pistons, so it knows at what moment to fire, just like a distributor.

Both a CAS and Distributor can be 'rotated'. Their bolt holes are slightly elongated so that it can be rotated clockwise or anti clockwise. Turning it one way 'advances' the timing, the other 'retards' the timing. You're effectivly changing the calibration of the distributor / CAS, so the ECU or Dissy thinks the engine is at a slightly different position than what it was at before the change. In other words, if the CAS / Distributor is in a neutral spot, if the engine is at 0 degrees rotation, the Dis/CAS will report it's at 0 degrees rotation. If you advance it, it might say it's at, eg, 5 degrees rotation, when it's still actually at 0. If you retard it, it'll think it's at 355 degrees rotation, when (again) it's at 0.

In turn this causes the spark to fire slightly earlier (or later) than it did prior to the change. The optimal time for the spark plug to fire can depend on cylinder pressure, boost pressure (if forced induction), fuel quality (Eg, regular petrol, vs high quality 98 octane, vs racing fuels, etc) and probably other things.
Helps to know why not to remove the sensor.
 

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White is normal on plugs. You won't see much on platinum/iridium plugs as compared to standard plugs.

Yes, test from one pin to the end where the spring fits. This is known as a test of the secondary. Testing for a hot at the coil with the key on will only tell you if you the wiring to the coil is damaged. That is possible---- but you're not getting a misfire code. That being so... I sort of think that coil tests of any type will not show you anything except that the coils are good- cross that off the list. The crank position sensor falls into the same category, although it could have an intermittent issue. The reason I say not to remove it unless you replace it is because I've read where 1-2 FFs removed it, cleaned it, reinstalled it, and the car wouldn't start. They had to buy a new one. This makes no sense to me, but it is what I remember, so I warn.

Low voltage code. Frayed ground wire.... where? Do you mean the ground at the battery or the ground that connects to the engine block? Either one is bad news. I have read on here where a guy with an SVT lost the main ground to the engine block and the entire load for the vehicle was fed through a small ground wire that connected the cylinder head to the chassis.

OH... crank angle sensor = crank position sensor. Same part, different term.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I already tested the coils.
I was getting 6.04 on all of them (from spring to pin, even switch pins i was testing. I also testing pin to pin- all readings was pretty much the same) but one coil which was at 6.00. This test was done with a warm engine. (I also ohms tested the coil connectors on the wire harness- which was probably redundant but it was done any how. got a 2.40 on all wires.)

Found my crank sensor, here it is.




So yeah its dirty. I do not know what that oily substance is. I didn't take it off but used MAF sensor cleaner to spray it off and cloth to wipe of the end of it where those teeth are. Disconnected the wire and cleaned the connector to sensor and inside where the connector goes. Compressed air to blow out any junks and drying.

When I mean there is frayed wiring, I was wrong. Just look here:


After this pic was taken (this was MONTHS ago) I cut off the loose wires and tapped them/the box up with electrical tape so it wouldn't short.
 

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Hi, I did not read each word of this thread, but wanted to comment after seeing the pics. Off topic maybe, but the old gunk under the CKP & the new wet oil residue above your CKP should be a concern. Is that oil something you identified and fixed recently/previously or something left as unknown?

Passenger side motor mount (PSM) when they go bad will drip in that area, but your pics indicate something more than just that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have known about it for a while. I have replaced the PSM, it had split into two parts.
Nothing I can do about it right now but seeing as I think there is nothing in that area that would be putting out this substance other then the valve cover gasket I have already replaced, I am not sure what else that it could be.
I know that steering? fluid passes over this side of the engine but the level is constant and always has been.

Do you know what is all in this area that could be producing this substance?
 

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My comments here have little or nothing to do with your "short loss of power" thread. The oil leaks in the pics (old and new oil?) are likely another subject.

Identifying any fluid leak is a "hands-on" type of situation, gotta get in there and nose around. Getting the engine cleaned would help to find a fluid leak, IF it is still leaking after the cleaning. Some people are nervous about engine cleaning because it can sometimes create a problem; while others (dealerships) do it all the time with no worries and no/few problems ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I clean mine quite often but probably not as thorough as I should. I usually just pop the hood and spray some purple power on the top and surrounding surfaces while making sure to clean the underside of the hood so that if anything started leaking/spraying into it, it would be easily located.

Going to either get some purple and spray down where these pic was taken and hope that removed it. Also will be removing the PSM to get a better view of this area and spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As for short loss of power. I still haven't any idea what is causing these issues- Thought about just replacing the sensor that was covered crude in case. Anyone know anything else I could try to diagnose this issue.

So far I have:
Compression tested cylinders.
Checked spark plugs.
Ohms tested the coil packs.
Made sure crank sensor was plugged in and not dirty.
 
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