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Subscribed. Would like to see the how-to once you get one up.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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just looked at a few sources and what I have in post 4 currently is correct, both in inches and mm

However I did find that they changed it for 05-07, and again for 08-09, and once again for 2010. So if you dont have a 00-04, do a quick google for:

"ford focus" 2007 front rear track

replace 2007 with your model year of course. the quotes around ford focus make sure you only find results with the words ford and focus next to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok so here is what I want to confirm.

1494
-1486
= 8
/ 2
= 4mm that each rear tire should stick in further that the front. So if the front measures 10mm from the center cap the rear should measure 14mm.

58.819
-58.504
=0.315
/ 2
=0.1575

0.1572 inches is equal to 0.400mm not 4mm. So is my math off or am I not understanding correctly.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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and if you want 0.1575 inches in 64ths, just multiply it by 64.

0.1575/1 = x/64

x = 64*0.1575 = 10.08

so the rears should be about 10/64 inches each further in. Which is 5/32. or 2.5/16. So if the fronts are at 2 inches, you would want the rears to read 2 and 10/64.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well fine be that way. LOL The conversion chart I looked up must be wrong then. Well now I need to check my alingment because I have been using the wrong measurements. I was using 2" from the center cap on the front wheels, then 2 5/8 from the rear. It looks like I shoud have been using 2" on the front and 2 5/32" on the rear.

*EDIT*

You posted before I finished typing this up.

So my car has a slight bit of neg camber right now which isn't horrible but not prefect like I want.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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correct.

In post 4 I had it really wrong since I screwed up the conversion, I said 2 and 1/64 in the back but it should really be 2 and 10/64

too late to edit that post now, maybe a mod can come in and add a 0 to it for me?

anyway your alignment will only be off maybe a 64th or two, if youre picky like me then yeah take another look but it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
correct.

In post 4 I had it really wrong since I screwed up the conversion, I said 2 and 1/64 in the back but it should really be 2 and 10/64

too late to edit that post now, maybe a mod can come in and add a 0 to it for me?

anyway your alignment will only be off maybe a 64th or two, if youre picky like me then yeah take another look but it should be fine.
I fixed the other post [thumb]

I'll redo my alingment and do the full write up at the same time. Everyone will have to settle for phone pics tho, cause thats all I got.
 

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Old Phart
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Posted via FF MobileThe string method worked great yesterday, confirmed the conversion by just measuring 4mm on the central mechanic`s rule with a caliper - 5/32 is perfect. (10/64) Found LF 1/32 out, RF 1/32 in, LR 2/32 in, RR 4/32 in. Looks pretty close, and didn`t change on second check after front SVT struts installed and driven for a shake down. (this is measured with SVT wheels). Looks like steering is left to adj. for too much RR toe, wheel is slightly left - I`m guessing that if I can get the RR adjuster loose and adj. that to match the LR it`ll be perfect, or at least quite good! That should bring it to 2/32 in at rear and 0 in front. Thoughts? good enough at that? I`m happy that it looks like only one wheel off, and that not by much...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yup just bring that one wheel to 0 or match the other rear and you'll be fine. I usally set all four wheels to zero toe, for longer tire life. My front wheels have about 0.1 negative degrees of camber so running zero toe up front is important to me.

The hardest thing I had a problem with when doing this alingment is keeping the steering wheel in place.
 

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Old Phart
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Posted via FF MobileThanks Norcal, setup to measure this way is so quick I think tweak then drive then recheck will be my method for the little adj., trying to keep it all straight to recheck before moving it might not be worth it for my small adj., more errors just from things being "jacked" out of place when making small adj. in my case I think...
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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just for what it's worth.... as you change the rear toe you'll change your camber as well.

seems overly complicated but I'm sure it works. Sorry I know not everyone has free access to an alignment rack [hihi]

btw I know it's not perfect like this looks like it is, but just jack up the car, adjust it a bit till it looks good, drive it, and re adjust if necessary. (you can tell I've done that before. LOL)
 

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Old Phart
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Posted via FF MobileYeah, done the tweak by eye too, that works better than you`d think with an "educated" eye... I was amazed how quick this measurement method was, with the track info to line up the fishimg line, 5 min. max per side to get good #s! well worth it!
 

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From this thread, post-4, back in 2010

we just did Matt's (mellephants) a week or so ago, followed the method outlined here

http://www.scoobymods.com/howto_4_wheel_alignment-t7388.html?
The primary info for this shade tree alignment process is/was located at this external site (right?)->

http://www.scoobymods.com/howto_4_wh...nt-t7388.html?

This link is currently broken (Error 404); so wondering if someone has a replacement link or a copy of the missing Scooby thread? Thank you.
 

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Old Phart
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Marde - the key part of the descriptions is to use fishing line between a pair of uprights (I used jack stands) at the side of the car, aligning them to get the line parallel to the car by measurement to the wheel caps.

Specs. given in that post show the different track front & rear for the MkI, for the difference in measurement front to rear.

Front is set to an even number of inches, rear to that plus half the difference in track front to rear. (2" front & 2 5/32" rear for MkI)


This was VERY helpful to me not that long after I joined, I see the title was misspelled so I can finally contribute now by correcting "alingment" for easier searching! (moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis)
 

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Thanks for the info and quick reply Sailor.

Sadly, something is just not clicking inside my head. I fully understand setting up the fishing line. My problem is-> the fish line becomes the first reference point for measurement; so what is the second point? -the (whitewall) edge of the tire?

Additional confusion is->
For the rear wheels, you said: (2" front & 2 5/32" rear for MkI)
That will position the rear wheels with some "tow out" -correct?
-or- was this info intended only for the front wheels?
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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Wow, seems like a lot of my old posts are getting dug up from their graves lately.

Anyway, I have since learned a lot more about this method. Be wary of relying on the quoted track measurements, as they can cause you to create a trapezoid, rather than a rectangle, around the car. This has obvious implications on your toe measurement... Instead of blindly using center caps, I suggest you start with the caps but then actually measure string-to-string at the front and rear of the car before starting.

The main points are to make sure you:
1. Actually have a rectangle, not a trapezoid, and
2. That the rectangle is not a parallelogram. In other words, make sure that the sides of the rectangle are parallel to the centerline of the car.

so what is the second point? -the (whitewall) edge of the tire?
The wheel rim itself. You want a SOLID reference point that will move in direct relation to the suspension components.

Don't forget to roll the car back and forth a bit after each adjustment to settle any pressure on the suspension bushes.

Additional confusion is->
For the rear wheels, you said: (2" front & 2 5/32" rear for MkI)
That will position the rear wheels with some "tow out" -correct?
-or- was this info intended only for the front wheels?
This is merely so you can correct for the difference in front and rear track widths. If you set the strings equidistant from all center caps, you will have a trapezoid because of the difference in track widths. See above for clarification that you NEED a rectangle.
 

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...
This is merely so you can correct for the difference in front and rear track widths...
Ah! Now the brain clicks. This was explained & posted in 2010, but took me another 5 years to understand it. Dense? Who me?

Some of the earlier talk about "front to back" had me thinking of the front of ONE WHEEL compared to the back of the SAME wheel. Silly me.

Now that I have it, and really understand the setup of the fish line rectangle around the car... here is (hopefully) my last question...

Should all wheels be perpendicular to the fish line; hence zero toe?
I will also re-read this and other threads for the answer to that question. I remember from earlier reading that some people setup front wheels with a tiny bit of negative or toe-in; which pulls back a little (to near zero or maybe some positive toe) during acceleration... right? -No wrong, see post-40

My goals are DD with best possible tire wear.

Thanking you all. [thumb]

Side note: I am planning to (maybe) make a test jig, that will seat on the wheel rim edges, and then extend away from the tire, and then extend to the front & back of the tire, to provide a better visual reference of tow error; as compared to the other reference-> the fishing line.
Same/similar test jig might be used for visual alignment of camber; which I learned about here/somewhere, using it with a plumb bob.
 

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Old Phart
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Alignment recommendations don't change, this is just a measurement method.

Front on these at zero with any error towards slight toe out.

Rear is usually set with a small amount of toe in. ( I used 2/32" vs. wheel center)

How you do measurements can change as you get more familiar with how this works on YOUR car. Setting up the full rectangle can confirm whether your track measurements are correct (the adjustment for differences front to rear) and even possibly show if the suspension has shifted sideways at either end (collision damage/subframe shifted for possibilities). Once track and straightness has been confirmed, a quick check can be done setting up off one side at a time with measurements from the hub centers.

How your wheels measure can change how you do it as well. When using my '04 six spoke SVT wheels the center cap & rim edges were even, so after an initial check measuring from both front & rear edges to confirm where they pointed the rechecks after adjustment could be done with only a measurement to the front edge.

Shortcuts like those were handy (once confirmed valid) when I did adjustments/checks. My routine instead of setting it up on boards with pairs of vinyl tiles to let the tires move as I adjusted it by crawling was to make the measurements - make a change to the setting - drive it to let it settle - then set up the string for a recheck.

Also proved to my satisfaction that the surface doesn't have to be perfectly flat (at least as long as the suspension isn't loose) with repeat measurements after a drive & setting up the string again getting matching results on blacktop that wasn't perfect.

Your jig might be handy to look at camber, not needed IMO for the toe settings.


P.S. - one helpful addendum comes to mind, front wheels aren't likely to be perfectly straight when you come to rest before measuring. Compare both sides to come up with a total toe reading, 1/32" in on one side might match with 1/32" out on the other for perfect "Zero".
 

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^^^ Fantastic & very helpful post. Thank you -both.

enter Sponge Bob Square Pants narrator voice here-> "5 Years Later"...

I have no questions or doubts about it now.


Edit:
Making correction to something I said earlier.

This is wrong->
...I remember from earlier reading that some people setup front wheels with a tiny bit of negative or toe-in; which pulls back a little (to near zero or maybe some positive toe) during acceleration... right? -No, wrong.
This is right->
some people setup front wheels with a tiny bit of positive-toe/toe-out; which moves a little to near zero toe, or might flex into negative-toe territory, during acceleration...
((( stuff above later found wrong again with news from illinipo in post-41 )))


Great reference thread here->
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/wheels-tires/143550-importance-toe-toe-out.html
 
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