Subscribed. Would like to see the how-to once you get one up.
I fixed the other post [thumb]correct.
In post 4 I had it really wrong since I screwed up the conversion, I said 2 and 1/64 in the back but it should really be 2 and 10/64
too late to edit that post now, maybe a mod can come in and add a 0 to it for me?
anyway your alignment will only be off maybe a 64th or two, if youre picky like me then yeah take another look but it should be fine.
The primary info for this shade tree alignment process is/was located at this external site (right?)->we just did Matt's (mellephants) a week or so ago, followed the method outlined here
The wheel rim itself. You want a SOLID reference point that will move in direct relation to the suspension components.so what is the second point? -the (whitewall) edge of the tire?
This is merely so you can correct for the difference in front and rear track widths. If you set the strings equidistant from all center caps, you will have a trapezoid because of the difference in track widths. See above for clarification that you NEED a rectangle.Additional confusion is->
For the rear wheels, you said: (2" front & 2 5/32" rear for MkI)
That will position the rear wheels with some "tow out" -correct?
-or- was this info intended only for the front wheels?
Ah! Now the brain clicks. This was explained & posted in 2010, but took me another 5 years to understand it. Dense? Who me?...
This is merely so you can correct for the difference in front and rear track widths...
This is right->...I remember from earlier reading that some people setup front wheels with a tiny bit of negative or toe-in; which pulls back a little (to near zero or maybe some positive toe) during acceleration... right? -No, wrong.