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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have been having a Serpentine belt chirp issue, only on low idle, seemingly when the alternator kicks on (so I'm assuming it's the issue) I replaced the tensioner and belt, and the chirping is more common now. I didn't know what that could be a sign of, if it is likely the alternator, I know it's bad and needs to be replaced, I only get 13.3v at the battery when it's on and my lights flicker and whatnot. But could that cause the chirping? I thought that they squealed when they were bad, or could it be one of the idler pulleys? I can get a video or sound clip if that would help a diagnosis. Thanks!
 

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If it needs a alternator, Why not change it out & I'd also do the belt too as well as possibly the tensioner also......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it needs a alternator, Why not change it out & I'd also do the belt too as well as possibly the tensioner also......
I've been trying to find a good price on an alternator. I already have a new tensioner and belt, the belt was shot for sure. Im still relatively low on income to get the alternator without planning it first, especially since the SVT one is so pricey. And idk if I should get a remanufactured or new one. I tried to see if the one from my old duratec would fit, but it's a different bolt pattern.
 

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Two different styles.....Yea you could get a reman, but for a little more, I'd get the new one......start saving.
 

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The serpentine belt is making noises and the timing chain is making noises. About 1 month ago I had to get a new battery and today when I went to start it - it would not even turn over. So my friend jump ongoing it and it started but after that it wouldn't start again.
Any ideas on what to do here?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The serpentine belt is making noises and the timing chain is making noises. About 1 month ago I had to get a new battery and today when I went to start it - it would not even turn over. So my friend jump ongoing it and it started but after that it wouldn't start again.
Any ideas on what to do here?
You might have some electrical connection draining the battery somewhere. If the car stays running once it started it is at least supplying enough power for the engine, but the battery sounds like it's dying prematurely. I'm not entirely positive, it could be something else, but that's my first impression.

I would charge the battery on a smart charger (stops charging once battery is full), check it's voltage with a voltmeter, then let it sit off the charger for a day or so, and check it's voltage again. If it went down more than .1v-.25v or more, something is draining the battery. It should maintain the voltage for a very long time (months) on car batteries, especially if its a new one and the ignition is off. Very few things in cars use power when the ignition is off. Headunits use less than 1amp to run their clock, or if you have an actual clock it's the same. The alarm system and wireless remote items take roughly 1 amp to run all together, and there's various other items, but none that should drain the battery significantly over a day.

If you have aftermarket audio or electrical equipment not vital to the engines operation, I would try disconnecting them and run the above test again.

Belts and timing are not my strong point, but I am certified for electrical work in NYS
 

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You guys are so whacky.

The battery and alt fails are often interlinked on these, new battery likely means alt died to kill it and the old battery tun too long does that commonly on Focus cars. The ONLY acceptable test of a battery is a loadtest at proper CCA. Jumping car off with a dead battery to die the next day, do we think cars fix themselves??? Alt likely dead, trying to recharge a dead battery on these is the quickest way to fail the alt there is, it takes EIGHT HOURS to fully recharge the proper 500 CCA battery Focus uses. The alts can die in 30 minutes of that. They were never intended to fully recharge the battery from dead and Ford specifically states it in the service manuals.

ALL cars now can run a brand new battery down in as little as a month and I've seen quicker, there is simply too much memory used to keep computer settings in place. I used to sell batteries and leaving them sitting in cars with cable terminals on was the best way to kill a new battery in two years there was.

The routine end result of charging a battery is 13.2-13.5 volts but a battery can only hold 12.7-12.8 so some of it MUST drop off, it is surface charge and it drops quickly and that is way more than .25 volts. It drops to a battery number from 12.3-12.7 or so in maybe an hour or less and THEN it should stabilize to only drop slowly as mentioned.

Focus cars do not have timing chains on the zetec SVT engines. Rubber belt. How they commonly strip to bend all valves in them when not changed.

Belt chirp is commonly NOT the belt if new and so many think otherwise, I used to sell belts too. Use the range indicator on tensioner to tell whether the belt is the correct length, many sold as the right ones are way toward one end of the tensioner range and then not tight to slip. If the belt was easy to get on the tensioner then likely it is too long. Pulleys can make noise too, bad bearing or grooves stuffed with dirt to not positively grab the belt and the new one slips to make noise.

Post #5 get the alt checked, they commonly shed diodes and one missing will run a new battery down slowly in maybe a month. Run long enough with bad diode and then the regulator fails trying to pick up the lost charge, it overheats. Why you can't totally charge the battery back up completely without risk of failure. The diode package there is utter garbage.
 
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