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I was also able to swap in a SelectShift shifter. I wanted to do a quick write up on the install process so anyone else who wants to do this might have an easier time. Sadly, I did not take any pictures, so this is just going to be text (I know, boo). Anyway, here we go.

NOTE: This applies to a 2014 Focus SE HB using a shifter assembly from a 2014 Focus. This will probably work on other years/models, but I can’t verify that. Also, I used FoCCCus 0.8.4. If a newer version is released, the instructions may change.

NOTE 2: I did this a few days ago, so I am going by memory. Please feel free to make corrections where needed and pay attention while taking things apart so you don’t break something. I am not responsible for damages to your car or voided warranties. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Parts and Tools:

  • SelectShift shifter assembly (Should include base, wiring, connectors, shiftknob w/buttons, shiftboot, and shifter plate. Check eBay, I found mine for $100)
  • OBDLink MX (Available on Amazon for about $100. Modified ELM327 will also work, but this is just easier, IMHO)
  • Laptop with Bluetooth adapter (Amazon has USB Bluetooth adapters for about $15)
  • 5.5mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket
  • Ratchets and extensions
  • Stubby Philips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver, long-ish
  • Magnetic Parts Tray (optional, but might help prevent a lost screw. Amazon has them for about $6)
  • Trim Removal Tools (optional, but EXTREMELY handy. Amazon has them for about $5)
  • FoCCCus Software (FREE! Download HERE)
Step-by-Step

  1. Remove floormats and anything in the cupholders and center console. Unplug your phone charger too.
  2. Pull the e-brake handle up as far as possible
  3. Remove the front side panels that run from the underside of the dash to the front of the center console.
    a. Both sides have a large retaining clip that needs to be removed
    b. The passenger side has a small access door that will need to be removed to access the clip.
    c. Once the clips are out, the panels should pull off and slide out
  4. There should be a plastic pocket on the driver’s side of the shifter. Remove by pulling/prying with the trim removal tools.
  5. Remove the e-brake shift boot and trim
    a. The upper most portion of the shift boot can be twisted a little and slide up the e-brake handle
    b. Use the trim removal tools to pry up the front lip of the trim. After the front and sides are unclipped, pull the entire e-brake trim forward and work it off the e-brake handle
  6. Unclip the shifter plate (silver plate with PRNDL)
    a. Using the trim removal tools, pry up on the rear area of the shifter plate, then work the front part up
    b. NOTE: This was the hardest part for me, as I felt like I was going to break it. Everything went smooth, but just be careful.
  7. Remove the shift knob
    a. Put the keys in the ignition and turn to the ‘II’ position. DO NOT START THE CAR.
    b. Put the shifter into the ‘L’ position
    c. Pull the shifter plate and shift boot up past the shift knob
    d. Disconnect the two wire cable for the shifter plate illumination.
    e. There will be two small Philips screws below the shift knob. Remove them.
    f. Disconnect the two wire cable from the shift knob to the shifter assembly. If you have three wires… you probably already have SelectShift. You might want to confirm before proceeding.
    g. The shift knob will pull straight off with the shift boot and shift plate
    h. Press down on the exposed black ‘stick’ and put the shifter back to ‘P’
    i. Turn off the ignition and remove the keys
  8. Remove the forward center console trim
    a. There should be 3 (maybe 4 can’t remember) small screws hidden by the shifter plate
    b. Remove the screws with the 5.5mm socket
    c. This piece should be easy to remove after the screws are out
  9. Remove the center console
    a. Remove the two 10mm screws under the front area of the console
    b. Slide both seats forward and climb in the backseat
    c. Remove the two 10mm screws on the rear sides of the center console
    d. Slide the passenger seat backwards
    e. Disconnect the two cable connectors along the passenger side of the shifter assembly
    f. Gently unclip the cable ends from the shifter assembly
    g. The center console should be removable at this point. Be mindful of the e-brake handle and any other wires that may be connected (potentially different wiring on a higher trim level). Try not to scratch the trim around the front vents.
  10. Remove the shifter assembly
    a. Disconnect the cable on the lower front of the shifter assembly
    b. Gently pull/pry the end of the shifter cable off of the shifter assembly
    c. Locate the shifter cable retaining block (beige plastic square on the front portion of the shifter assembly). It should have a tab facing up and two ‘wings’ on the driver side.
    d. Gently push back on the upper tab with the flathead screwdriver while pulling the retaining block toward the driver side. This part was annoying, fair warning.
    e. Remove the 4 bolts at the shifter assembly base. They should be 10mm.
  11. OPTIONAL: Transfer PRNDS, shift boot, and shift knob to old shifter plate
    a. My new shifter assembly had a dark silver shifter plate, my car has light silver trim and a light silver shifter plate. As such, I had to move things around
    b. The PRNDS/L area can be removed by gently prying up on the rear tab and pulling it down. Be careful, this piece felt brittle to me.
    c. The shift boot is zip tied to the shift knob. I found it was easier to just remove the shift boot from the shifter plate
    d. Using the trim removal tools, pry up on the retaining ring for the shift boot and work the ring off all the way around.
    e. At this point, you can re-arrange your parts as needed.
  12. Re-installation will be the reverse of removal. Please don’t mix up your shifter assemblies or you will have a sad.
  13. Once everything is back together, it would be a good idea to take the car for a test drive and make sure everything works (all gears engage, PRNDS lights up, AUX and USB ports work, power ports work).
    a. NOTE: The ‘+/-‘ buttons will not work at this point, neither will they engage the old Hill Climb feature.
  14. Next up is software, time to break out the laptop.
  15. I did this on a Windows 7 32-bit OS, I don’t think this will be much different for Windows 8/8.1 or 64-bit OSes.
  16. Install the USB Bluetooth adapter and drivers if needed
  17. Download and unzip the FoCCCus software.
    a. NOTE: This software does not require installation, simply run the EXE file when needed
  18. Connect the OBDLink MX to the OBDII port.
    a. Port is located behind a door on the lower driver’s side left. It’s marked OBD.
  19. Sit in the car, the range on the OBDLink MX seems to be pretty short.
  20. The OBDLink MX should light up
  21. Press and hold the ‘Connect’ button on the OBDLink MX for about 2 seconds and release
    a. The blue light should flash quickly, indicating it is in pairing mode
    b. It will stay in pairing mode for about 2 minutes
  22. On the laptop, right click the Bluetooth icon in the system tray and select ‘Add Device’
    a. The OBDLink MX should pop up in the device list
    b. Follow the prompts to complete installation
  23. Once installation is complete, go to Control Panel -> Devices and Printers
  24. Right click on the OBDLink device, go to Properties, and find the COM Port
  25. Turn the ignition to position ‘II’, DO NOT START THE CAR.
  26. Open the FoCCCus.EXE file to start FoCCCus
  27. At the prompt, select the following:
    a. Serial Port: Select COM port for OBDLink MX
    b. Port Speed: 500000
    c. Auto: Unchecked
    d. Maximize Speed: Unchecked
    e. Platform: Not selectable, should default to Ford Focus 3
    f. Language: Probably English
    g. Click ‘Open’
  28. FoCCCus will open the Central Config tab
  29. Click ‘Read from BCM’ and wait
    a. You will probably get and Engine Failure warning on the dash, ignore it
    b. The dropdowns should populate with info
  30. Click ‘Read from IPC’ and wait
    a. The center instrument panel will go blank
    b. The dropdowns should populate with info again
    c. NOTE: I’m not entirely sure which of the above steps is needed, but I used both
  31. Scroll down to the last option in the Central Config tab, ‘#243 Shifter Type’
    a. Change the dropdown to “Select Shift Tech”
  32. Click ‘Write to BCM’ and wait
  33. Click ‘Write to IPC’ and wait
  34. The central instrument panel should now say ‘PRNDS’
  35. Exit FoCCCus (just click the red X)
  36. Turn the ignition off and remove the key
  37. Unplug the OBDLink MX, put the laptop the laptop away.
  38. Turn the car on and go for a test drive
  39. You should be able to put the shifter in ‘S’ and select gears with the ‘+/-‘ now
  40. ENJOY YOUR NEW SHIFTER!
Hopefully this helps someone out!
 

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nice write up! the FoCCus software seems pretty cool.
 

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I used a shifter assembly from a 2012 and the elm327 linked below. Super easy and did it before work one day. Also for those of you who don't know. You can pay $20 just for the ELM327 and change your setting to selectshift without changing the shifter and then your "L" gear will be "S" which should give you quicker firmer shifts and will hold a lower gear for longer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/mobile/dp/B005FEGP7I/ref=mobile_oh_details_?ie=UTF8&app-action=detail&asin=B005FEGP7I&clickstream-tag=your_order
 

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Has anyone confirmed that enabling selectshift on an "L" shifter will actually allow sport mode? Obviously there won't be buttons for changing gears but if sport mode still works that would be cool.
 

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Has anyone confirmed that enabling selectshift on an "L" shifter will actually allow sport mode? Obviously there won't be buttons for changing gears but if sport mode still works that would be cool.
I can confirm that this will work. You'll still have "L" on the shifter, but you'll get an "S" in the instrument cluster and your downhill button will no longer work.
 

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Also just wondering if this would actually display "S" in my 2012 base SE monochrome dash display. I'm thinking you guys probably have the larger full color screen. I assume that even if it doesn't change in my cluster it would still act as "S" mode.
 

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So I hate to be that guy who shouldn't have messed with something he didn't know much about but I'm moderately tech savvy and these instructions seemed easy enough to follow. Now after switching to selectshift tech and back to normal, neither selection in focccus allows my car to start. Any ideas,
 

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So basically you did what I did a few years ago? Except you did the whole assembly.
 

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Ahhh okay sweet, well nice. I think the hardest part of this is honestly the Focccus software
 

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Hey could you email me the software that you have. I downloaded the newer version and I can't get it to connect using the modified elm. I also have a 2014.
 

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I needed one modified to make changes to the ICP because it requires HI Speed CAN
 

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I hacked up the cheap ELM I had to attempt to modify it but I ruined it lol. Prior to that I was still able to access focccus I just couldn't change anything under ipc. For select shift i would assume you don't need to access the ipc
 

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I hacked up the cheap ELM I had to attempt to modify it but I ruined it lol. Prior to that I was still able to access focccus I just couldn't change anything under ipc. For select shift i would assume you don't need to access the ipc
there is no reason whatsoever to ever change anything in IPC...

a simple reading of how the modules work in the helm manual will show this to be true.

IPC is a backup of the as-built data in the BCM. no one should mess with it.
 

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I needed one modified to make changes to the ICP because it requires HI Speed CAN
you don't make changes to the IPC. that's your problem.

again, IPC is a backup of the as built data in the BCM.

you guys need to read the helm manual in the electrical distribution section and learn how the car communicates through the modules.

there's lots of poor, false, and misguided information regarding the focccus software and changing settings posted by people who don't know how the system works in the first place.


i'm no expert by any means but i've obviously read a lot more than most everyone else who has posted about these things...
 

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Can someone please email me their version of focccus software that has worked because mine simply does not work on my 2014 sedan or hatch. Please lol
[email protected]
I converted my elm back to normal and it still doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Focus 13, I used Focccus 0.8.4 as well. Did you do the direct swap or did you do the wiring in method with the shift knob like Paparacer did?

Also, how is the is the Focccus software not working? Is it not communicating with the vehicle at all, not reading, not writing? Are you getting any kind of error message?

(Please note, I'm no expert with the Focccus software. Just hoping that one of us will recognize the error/issue you are having with a little more information.)
 
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