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Discussion Starter #1
What a bummer, sat in my car after work and was about to head home.. when the key would not turn at all. I checked to make sure the car was in park and adequately forced the steering-wheel side to side in attempt to get the key to turn over. Called my brother up and he suggested banging on the key, as if it was a nail. Had no hammer, so I forcefully open palmed the key... IT WORKED! Was able to drive home and avoid the hassle and expense of a tow. I want to replace the lock cylinder and tumbler with new ones. To make this easier, I left the Key in the ACC position and unplugged the neg terminal on the battery.

If I buy the following kit: http://www.1aauto.com/ignition-lock-cylinder/i/1aimx00175?f=585402&y=2004

Will I be able to set up the tumbler to work with my existing key -- it looks as if this is a feature of this kit? If I take out the existing lock cylinder and tumbler assembly will I run into any security/anti-theft transponder issues?

I'm hoping I can set up the new tumbler for my existing key and then replace both the lock cylinder and the tumbler with the new ones.


To be clear, I only one transponder key for the car (actually, I have 3 keys but 2 of them are copies of the original transponder key and thus I have 1 key and 2 clones). I do not have two different keys where each key has a unique but recognizable transponder signal -- thus I'm unable to program new keys on my own.
 

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Looks like the type to allow you to "key" the cyl. to match your current key.

No security problems with this type replacement, as you're still using the same coded keys.

Good move leaving the key in there, some have used the "tricks" to make it work so long it eventually has to be drilled out for removal - a much larger PITA.
 

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You can get a Ford one on Amazon for a couple dollars more if you want factory parts. Or there are $30 aftermarket replacements on Amazon as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's great, I'm glad to hear the anti-theft transponder system will not be an issue via this route.

I wish I would have gone OEM, in a bit of a time crunch with this happening in the middle of a busy work week. Bought the 1A part last night and should get it by Friday. I'll have to let you guys know how it turns out.

I'm going to search around and see if I can find a nice thread on removing the current tumbler and lock cylinder. I hope I'm not wrong, but I have a feeling it's a pretty straightforward procedure when the key is in and turned to the ACC position.
 

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Pull the cylinder and look at which way the cylinder rotates as soon as that key on bottom pulls clear of the groove in outer cylinder body in steering. Then take a file (I use a dremel with a small rock in it) and then knock the sharp right angle corner off that key side so that key then has a radius to ease the key out of the groove easier. Takes maybe 30 seconds of work. The tumblers wear just enough so that key does not pull quite clear of the groove and then cylinder can't rotate. File correctly and the cylinder locks just like normal but will not stick again, I've been driving two cars now like that for years after doing that. Both showed the problem before I fixed them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wanted to update everyone who gave me advice on how to fix my ignition.

My car initially broke down on Wednesday so I figured with 2 day shipping I'd get it AT LEAST by Saturday.. Wrong. After a few annoying phone calls with ups.. I realized the best I was going to get was my shipping expense refunded.

Anyhow, last Sunday I ended up grinding down the entire bar which is suppose to drop clear of its groove when the key is inserted, which is the component that causes all of this headache (basically exactly like AMC suggested but instead of filing down the corner I removed the component entirely).

I now have a new part which is sitting on the shelf at home.. and the original OEM part (now modified) that has been working great...

The only difference grinding away the component has made is that I can now pull out my key while the car is in drive (I don't think I could do this before the modification).

While I probably don't have to, I'm going to put the new part in anyways and hope this problem doesn't every happen again.
 
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