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First off let me explain my situation, I have a 01 zx3 focus 85 k, intake, obx 4-2-1 headers fs flex, borla, udp. I know that by going fi i will loose my intake....well I finally finished college and have got a real job (ahhh beats the hell out of all those years at wal-mart lol) anyway I have about 4 grand to spend on fi. I also plan on upgrading to a better clutch once I purchase the kit.

I have been reading post like crazy to try to learn as much as I can. I have decided to go with the power works supercharger. I think it sounds like the most practical for the money, and not to too hard to install hopefully, because me and my buddy will be installing it. But there is a few questions I have about the whole thing. As I said above my car has 85 k miles, I was wondering if there would be need to go ahead and have the motor rebuilt because I plan on keeping the car for a while. The engine in it right now still runs good, I have always changed the oil every 3 k miles, and have had nothing tear up besides the notorious fuel pump. I know it depends on driving style for the wear and tear on the motor but as far as that goes I really have been pretty easy on my car.

As far as the tune goes I know they give you the capability of having your chip sent to them, but from what I have read "its nothing to write home about". How big of a difference does it make by doing that or actually having it tuned on a dyno. If need be where in ohio can I go to find a dyno that will be capable of tuning it. I am located in the south east part of ohio. If I do send my chip in how long on average do they take to send it back?

What about realiablity? I dont want to spend that much money and have it break shortly after installation. Remember this is going to be a daily driver that wont be abused, but only on ocassion. I have read that it is possible to break in to the high 13's with this sc, true??

Sorry for such a long post but I did use the search for a long time and never really could find exactly what was looking for so I figured i would just throw all of the ???'s in one. If any one is still reading lol, if you could please give me a little info and keep in mind that this is not another pointless post from some 16 yo kid that in all realitly is never actually going to follow through.....

-chuck
 

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Do/have done a compression and leakdown test to check out the health of your engine. If all is well, I wouldn't worry about a rebuild.

You MUST send in your ECU for the PW re-flash to get the base calibration. We have plenty of cars running around with no issues whatsoever - many with much more miles than 85K. You can choose to have it dyno tuned somewhere if you wish, but they have to be able to modify the base PW calibration. The kit comes with a overnight shipping package for your ECU ... we get it the next day, it is usually reflashed that same day, and often goes back out that same day overnight too. 2-3 days in total is the average.

We also have plenty of cars out there with 30-40K miles on their kits now. High 13s are possible assuming you can pull a good 60' time and hook it up.
 

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Like allways the best tune will be on a dyno this will be the best performance the the best safety the next problem will be finding some one to tune it that knows what there doing

pw tryes to send out one tune to fit all and that just wont work you would think they would of figured that out by now with all the issues they have had with trying it

pw also alters your ECU making it so the Avg person cannot scan what your ECU is doing through the OBDII port so if you do need to check things down the road you cant , if you remove the pw you will have to buy a new ECU (250-400.00) and have the PATS/Keys reset(75-200.00) to be able to restart you car after removel plus a tow bill to get it to a Ford dealer (40-75.00) kind of a high price to pay to want to remove the pw tune ? ? ? ?

This is another reason to get a proper tun done by some one that knows what there doing and on a dyno

Tom
 

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???

From the instruction manual ...

"Dealers using WDS (Worldwide Diagnostic System) and PDS (Portable Diagnostic System - Palm Version) to communicate with PCMs in Powerworks equipped vehicles may not be able to communicate with the PCM. WDS and PDS attempt to automatically "ID" the vehicle by checking the PCM Catchword / CAL ID, and does not recognize the ID in the Powerworks flashed module. Dealers can force WDS to communicate with the PCM by manually entering the PCM "Tear Tag" number (located on a white sticker on the PCM, and sometimes also located in the door jam), or by entering the PCM "Part Number" (located on the PCM part # sticker), or by entering the original vehicle calibration number (accessable to dealers by running a Ford OASIS printout using the VIN number from the vehicle).There should be no issues like this using NGS."

The calibration is Ford certified and released (necessary per the SEMA agreement and CARB certification). Ford issues a unique PW ID number for the cal. Because the volume of the product is low, the dealer/service networks are not updated with the unique ID number - that is why a WDS/PDS doesn't initially recognize it. The aftermarket tuner companies (like SCT or private tuners) are only allowed to modify the production release calibrations as well. They won't get the PW cal unless they go thru the effort of extracting and converting it to an aftermarket tuning software package ... and I don't believe there is anything standing in their way from doing it.

The average person is likely just going to use a code reader or a Xcal2 (or similar) device to check CEL issues. While those devices can't identify the PW cal (because of the above), I have not run into any CEL checking issues using such devices.

If someone wishes to return their PW vehicle back to stock, PW offers to re-flash their ECU back to the stock configuration (for a small fee). There should be no reason to purchase a new ECU unless something is wrong with it.
 

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QUOTE"If someone wishes to return their PW vehicle back to stock, PW offers to re-flash their ECU back to the stock configuration (for a small fee). There should be no reason to purchase a new ECU unless something is wrong with it.
[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]*The customer that contacted me did not read this or didnt see it to read it , I will contact him and see what he has to say about that in his instructions , If this is the case i will retract my statement about returning back to stock , He is removing his kit to sell

I have had 3 pw cars in here and none have been able to read the PID with the SCT Raptor and the Predator would only read a few of the codes

What do you read your PID with SCT ?

Unlike stock ECU i can read and make a base templet tune file the pw cannot be read with out removing it and having to read it with a special devise to extract and make a tune base file from with the SVT being much harder to do this

Agree just checking the CEL is easy with any reader

Tom
 

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He probably won't find the reflash-to-stock offer in the manual ... would need to talk to the tech hotline.

I've used Xcal2 for datalogging. I've heard an Xcal1 can extract the calibration which then needs to be sent to SCT for conversion into a PRP modifiable file.
 

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1turbofocus said:
QUOTE"If someone wishes to return their PW vehicle back to stock, PW offers to re-flash their ECU back to the stock configuration (for a small fee). There should be no reason to purchase a new ECU unless something is wrong with it.
[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]*The customer that contacted me did not read this or didnt see it to read it , I will contact him and see what he has to say about that in his instructions , If this is the case i will retract my statement about returning back to stock , He is removing his kit to sell

I have had 3 pw cars in here and none have been able to read the PID with the SCT Raptor and the Predator would only read a few of the codes

What do you read your PID with SCT ?

Unlike stock ECU i can read and make a base templet tune file the pw cannot be read with out removing it and having to read it with a special devise to extract and make a tune base file from with the SVT being much harder to do this

Agree just checking the CEL is easy with any reader

Tom
Hello again Tom!
Your right, it doesn't say that in the manual. The PCM can also be re-flashed at the Ford Dealer by bypassing the auto detect and manually putting in the ECU code if the customer didn't want to send the module back. As far as reading PID's, I'm not sure how Ray is doing it but he has had a couple of PW cars in for tuning and seems to be able to read whatever he needs to. At our shop we use the same tools as the Ford dealers use and don't have any issues.

As far as the comment in an earlier post about about a generic tune not working and us not being able to figure it out.... If you go back to some of our other encounters, you'll recall that we never claimed to make the most power, we said it was good safe power, with good driveability and reliability. And of course it is one of the requirements for getting the package EO certified.
(By the way, if this method doesn't work I guess you need to show me the worldwide tuning centers, were they individually tune all the cars produced in the factory's around the world.)

There is a reason why aftermarket tuners make money by modifying production calibrations. It's not because the aftermarket tuners are smarter than the factory tuners (well maybe in some cases they are) but because the aftermarket guys don't have to warranty the product if something goes wrong, and even if they do decide to cover warranty it is on 1 or 2 cars, it isn't by the millions. Factory calibrations are done safely to allow for production hardware variability, environmental changes, altitude, etc. And unlike the aftermarket are required to certify at sea level and at altitude. OE calibration programs take years with millions of dollars spent on research development and testing, and there are still warranty issues and recalls. A tuner can take an individuals production car, strap it down on some rolls, add a little spark and fuel and BINGO! you find and extra 5 - 10 hp. You can't however take that tune and send it to Arizona and have the same results. (unless of course that's where you started) Our stuff is pretty consistant vehicle to vehicle and there is a lot left on the table as some of the guys who don't care if they break their cars have found out by doing some extra tuning.
(Just Say'in!)
 
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