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Some of us do not have to wreck our cars to know what is bad for them. Did you have to stick your hand into a fire to figure out that it hurts?
 

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Your evidence against MMO?................the company has NEVER supplied any proof of the claimed benefits of using it. ?????????? It is solely spread by the uninformed. Like here.

The NTSB ruled that use of it in an aircraft engine failed it to crash a plane.

Both Ford and GM warn against using it. It damages emission systems.

From the MMO faq...........'MMO is about a 5 wt oil. It will reduce the high end number of a multi-vis oil by 4 wt points. The low end number will stay the same when used as per directions.'

So, it's HALF of what ATF is. The 4 points is wrong, it actually depends on the original weight of the oil mixed with, and the amount of MMO used. Additionally, the last sentence is wrong too as the lower number is the base weight, it HAS to move that number, impossible not to.

Another from the MMO faq................'Tests indicate that 4 oz/ 10 gallons of fuel is the optimum level to use in fuel according to engine tests. Using more may increase vehicle emissions or TRIP A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (caps mine) in emission sensitive vehicles.'

There is also a two stroke adviso in there to sell even more product but the useage number is so low you may as well not use it at all, the makers know that engine damage is a very real possibility using it in a 2 stroke. But they HAVE to sell product, and risking yours doing so.

Look at the MMO site resident MSDS, the product is normal oil 70% and 30% Stoddard solvent, or varsol, almost the same as kerosene or turpentine. The solvent thins the crap out of oil to let it wear parts more, anybody not grasping that is an idiot.

I sold gallons of it, the only thing it fixed were owner heads, the cars it did nothing for and some got worse. Like most maintenance product, the owners swear by it with no real proof at all.
 

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You're getting a bit too worked up, and please, try to keep in mind that this was spurned by your comment about my habits. It's simple logic: if it hasn't happened to you personally, then logically you shouldnt make such claims. If something went wrong on a customer's car, it's very likely, that there was a combination of factors involved in the failure. In that context, I can see you having a desire to warn people against using a product that can contribute to a failure under the right circumstances. Obviously, these are not my circumstances because I havent had a failure on any of my vehicles, and I've used transmission fluid and MMO in my crankcase with no detriment. And in fact, on my wife's 4G64, it quieted her valve tick.

Me themsk joo haf too much of an all-or-nothing attitude. But I understand you wanting to help people take care of their things.
 

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'It's simple logic: if it hasn't happened to you personally, then logically you shouldnt make such claims.'

Do you dare to think that every mechanic handed a car to work on has actually personally encountered the problem on it before in some way? And in one goofy statement you just wiped away any potential learning gained from those in the past, you may as well burn the libraries.

You're in effect saying you MUST stick your hand into the fire to know, that's the silliest thing I've ever heard.

I'll leave you alone, you obviously have much bigger issues than me to work on. Besides that, the OTC parts stores need less than stellar buyers to keep them in business, and those buyers need to continue to hear all the false things they tell them there. Enjoy that (fake) reality, I would feel bad about cracking that.

Lemmingworld.....................................where each has to experience that cliff for himself personally.
 

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I'm sorry that you have so much trouble dealing with opinions that differ from yours. I don't believe your analogy is appropriate because in the case of putting your hand in a fire, only one thing can happen. But we are in fact speaking of an engine, which is very complicated, and can fail for many different reasons, and often due to an amalgam of problems. I don't mean to say that if it hasn't happened to you, then it can't happen. That would be ridiculous. I'm saying that if it hasn't happened to you, then you're not in a qualified position to say it's going to happen because you are working off the experience of others, not your own.
 

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And I'm saying instead of wasting money on trans fluid put water in the engine instead of oil next time. You can't make a judgement until you have personally experienced it yourself. Your rules, and your methodology, and IF it dies you can say it was 'due to an amalgam of problems'.

Lemmingworld.......................
 

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No, thank you. I'll just continue using Marvel Mystery Oil, and enjoying the great results I've been experiencing for decades. I'd tell you the story about how I run 20w50 in everything I drive, including my 4 cylinders, but I'm afraid you'd just blow your top, again. Have a great morning.
 

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You are not qualified to make a decision like that if you have not personally experienced it.

You are not running 20-50 oil if you are mixing 5 weight MMO in it. It lowers the numbers, it's not 20-50 any more.

You don't read my posts, or you would know I use heavy weight oils all the time. And I don't cut them with crap MMO either. Why would you just to ruin the advantage by lowering the viscosity back down?

Great results? I have never had the sticky valves, ticking, and other problems you describe ever in a long stream of cars, even the oldest engines never do it. I've never used a maintenance chemical ever, they simply waste money. If a meteor suddenly fell to strike me into thinking I needed to do what you do I would simply buy some kerosene at much cheaper and add it to the oil, the exact same effect. No need so far, every car I let go to the scrapyards still started and ran fine with no rattles or other flaws, I simply drove them so long I needed to get rid of them to make room for more cars. The last two would have had 3-4 years each of driving left, I just can't get people to buy them, they tend to not pay for them. I send them to the yards before I will simply give them away to someone who promises to pay but then later doesn't.
 

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Hey, bud you've been hostile since I first, replied to this thread. I haven't attacked you once, but you just keep hammering away at me. I'm not offended because it doesn't change my good experience, but why you mad, bro?
 

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Greetings all! I apologize for the long post. I'm hoping someone can give me some direction. Hours and hours of googling and reading through forums like this one have given me a lot of possible things to look at, but no real firm starting point.
I have a 2005 ZX3 SES I bought earlier this year. It ran great for about a week, then threw a CEL and started stalling out every time I let off the gas to come to a stop. I replaced the plugs. I cleaned the throttle body (sticky and gummed up) and the IAC valve. I would have replaced the air filter but it has a lifetime filter and the indicator is well within the green range. The car stopped stalling, but instead started idling high, 2000-2500 rpms. DTC said minor vacuum leak, so I pulled the intake manifold and cleaned the flaps, cleaned inside the block where the valves are, cleaned the TMAP sensor, replaced the pcv valve and tubing (which had a huge gash in it). In order to get the intake manifold off, I had to remove the fuel rail. One fuel injector came out with it, the other three stayed in the engine block. I replaced the affected o-rings. Put it all back together and it ran like a top.
I had read some good reviews online about Marvel Mystery Oil and since I could tell this baby hadn't received much love, I thought it would be a good idea to clean the fuel system. I read that MMO could be used in the fuel tank or during an oil change which I thought odd but figured it must be ok. What I DIDN'T read were the instructions, instead assuming it was like all other fuel treatment products I'd used, and dumped all 32oz in at the next fill up. Basically 6-8 times what I should have put in. About 90 miles of driving later, it started coughing and sputtering and shaking like it was going to fall apart. There was also an occasional loud "pop" coming from just behind the engine. When I pulled over, the engine compartment smelled like when you burn the ends of a polyester cord to melt them a bit so they won't fray. The serpentine belt had been shaken half off the pulleys and I had to pry at it to reseat it. I sat there and spent a few hours reading online, determined it must have been the overdose of MMO that caused my current woes. The consensus was that I should drain the fuel tank and put in fresh gas. I also read that the catalytic converter can be damaged if the car is driven while misfiring, so I got roadside assistance to tow me to my storage unit where I spent the night waiting for them to open so I could get my tools. Next morning I couldn't get my siphon hose to reach the fuel through the filler hose, so I drained the tank by connecting my siphon hose to the fuel line in the engine compartment, disconnecting the battery negative terminal, shorting the fuel relay, turning on the ignition key, then making contact with the negative cable about 500 times to get all the fuel pumped out. I also replaced my serpentine belt since the old one had sustained damage. I then put in 5 gallons of fresh gas, and many cranks later got the car started. Again, rough idle, sputtering, coughing, popping. And my serpentine belt fell off. (Over the course of this ordeal I've had to put it back on 3 times, and reseat it by prying at it 3 times. I'm assuming it's the roughness that jostles it off since when I'm careful to not let it run too rough it stays on.) I read a ton of stuff about what all this could mean, thought maybe I'd damaged fuel injectors, fouled valves or plugs, fouled oxygen sensors, ruined my catalytic converter. A friend suggested there still might be MMO in the system, advised putting in Chevron supreme with techron and a fuel injector cleaner, then drive it until the catalytic converter gets hot. So I did that. Drove it for 150 miles with only a couple of stops. Mostly on freeway with some in town traffic. And it only runs marginally better. It doesn't pop, or maybe I just turn it off before it has a chance to. I noticed that sometimes after I start it it'll rev up to 3000 rpms and stay there for a bit before settling down to cough, sputter, and shake. I don't know if that was happening before I drained the fuel, so I'm worried I damaged something draining the way I did. Also, as long as I was cruising 60-70 mph, it seemed to run smooth, though it lacked a little power. If I let off the gas and coast, occasionally it will keep accelerating, and I imagine that if I had it in neutral at those times it would be revving up to 3000 rpms on its own. Otherwise when I let off the gas half the time it'll surge and cough, the other half nothing. If I then apply the accelerator slightly, say to keep it at 45-55 on level highway, it bucks and surges. Once it's under a load and picking up speed it settles down. When it town, it coughs and surges most of the time, but occasionally settles down and runs normally. But very infrequently. Now the DTCs it's throwing are:
P0171 system too lean (bank 1)
P2195 O2 sensor signal stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1
P0128 coolant thermostat (coolant temp below thermostat regulating temperature)
P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
So now I'm wondering if putting in too much MMO was just a coincidence, or maybe all this really was caused by the overdose.
If caused by the overdose, things I'm looking at include damaged/fouled or leaking fuel injectors, damaged fuel rail pressure sensor, damaged or fouled plugs, damaged or fouled O2 sensors, damaged or fouled catalytic converter, and gunk that's been loosened up and is now wreaking havoc. Also possible collateral damage if by draining the fuel as I did I either stressed the fuel rail pressure sensor or fuel pump too much, or confused the crap out of the PCM/ECU.
If a coincidence, I'm looking at all the above plus possibly the MAF sensor.
All hoses seem tight and well-attached. I pulled the vacuum tube off of the FRP sensor and the end of it did not smell like gas.
Does anyone have any ideas about what's going on? Am I missing anything? Any suggestions of what to try first? Second? Etc?
And what do you think of Scotty Kilmer's suggestion to clean the catalytic converter by putting in a gallon of lacquer thinner when the tank's half full and then running it at high speed for 150 miles?
Thank you so, so much, to anyone who chooses to give me some considered, pertinent advice!
I should also add that my car has the same hard to start issue that so many others have. So I'm familiar with what my fuel pump sounds like. And it seems to me that after draining my tank as I did, the pump doesn't run for as long as it used to when I turn the ignition to "on".
Also, when I say it settles down once it's under a load and picking up speed, that's only when I'm giving it quite a bit of gas. If I'm accelerating moderately, or slowly, it bucks and surges.
Just finished driving it across town. It's definitely backfiring. Not many loud pops from the engine compartment, but the exhaust is noisy like it has an exhaust leak, only it's not steady, it surges.
I sure hope someone here can help me!
I just read your post and you are correct. I made the same mistake and had the same results. It's was the MMO.
 

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I just read your post and you are correct. I made the same mistake and had the same results. It's was the MMO.
This^^^^^^^Why use those chemicals for?
 

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I find it interesting that stuff could do any harm in the fuel.
We've had guys at work put gas in diesel trucks. Simply draining the fuel and refilling
Is the fix truck works just fine after
There's a great channel on YouTube called project farm. He has a bunch of videos on all sorts of different things including running engines on different stuff.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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Oversimplication to deny all problems can justify eating botoxin. The people with 'good experiences' will understand though.

We now have the OP and post #30 telling what happened and why would they lie?

I for one back in the '60s ran an old Bridgestone that had no injection pump on it and sloppy mis-mixing of the oil ratio to fuel was eye-opening, you found out (sometimes in less than a minute) how oil in varying amounts will mess your stuff up. If walking home won't show you you're just plain stupid.
 
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