Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys,

Question I was reading the How to on replacing shocks and struts and in the

end the guy says that the rear shocks the bottom bolt was very hard to take

off. If he correct about that? I want to replace mine today, but I can see

the huge bolt I have to take of. i usually use PB blaste to loosen up bolts. Do

I need an Air compressor and Gun to take that bolt out or can that be done

by hand?


Thanks

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,263 Posts
you can do it by hand... impact tools help greatly... my bottom shock bolts were pretty seized on mine... so i used a torch to heat em up a bit and they broke free pretty easily. Shocks took about 10 mins total to change for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
yup, real easy, i never change a shock before and when i did mine it took about 15 minutes its really easy. dont pay some one to do it, it takes longer to take the car to a shop and have them do it then it does to do it in your driveway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I am just afraid to break a bolt or something. I have a very long break bar that I use

sometimes, but last time I used it I over tighted a motormount and broke the bolt.

So have you done it on a ZX3 model mine is about 70,000 miles. I looked at the bolt and

they do not look rusty they look gold color looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,263 Posts
It's a 15mm bolt... there is only one down there to remove. It will on there prtty tight. I think its like 66 ft/lbs or somewhere around there i think. Don't quote me. I just used my impact wrench to tighten it. That's why i had to use heat on mine then it broke right lose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,737 Posts
> I am just afraid to break a bolt or something.


Patience is helpful. You'd probably be OK if the bolt/nut isn't rusty, but if you want to be ultra-cautious, then spray the PB Blaster on it, tap it a bit with a hammer, and them wait a day before trying to do the job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Penguin I was just thinking about that myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
I would also spray them with the PB and try to let it sit for awhile. Mine were pretty tight and were only on a year and a half. It is definitely and easy job and that bolt will be the hardest part of the job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reply guys I replaced them yesterday. It took me 30 minutes. It was fun. I sprayed it with some PB and then it was easy from there. What I did notice was that my car gain some height now it looks slanted the back of the car looks higher than the front tires. I hope that is normal. I also checked the shocks and when I pressed them down all the way down they never will come up. I figure they where bad. I am also suspecting the front one's are bad too. Oh well I will tried to change those later on this month or next. Its getting cold here in Dallas.

Thanks for the help,

Juan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis.

Man I LOVE the OP's Avatar, so funny!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Just tried this today, used wd40 but wasnt able to get it off. Think I need to invest in a torch.
Word of advice: WD40 is NOT a good penetrating oil. WD40 stands for Water Dispersing formula #40. It is designed to keep water off of things. But once rust is in doing it's thing, well, that is a different matter. It is not the right tool for the job. It helps, but marginally (especially with heavy rust).

Use products that specifically say PENETRATING OIL. Things like PB Blaster, Knock'er Loose (have used both with good results), Deep Creep, etc are going to work a lot better for you.

If you want the best results, mix Dextron III and acetone half & half and brush it on the area. Works VERY well, and costs pennies vs the spray cans.

Just some advice from someone who has lived for 40 years in rust belt states.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Thanks, I also think I might have stripped the bolt. Can you give me advise on that?
The nut is accessible from the bottom of the trailing arm, correct? I believe it is right there on the bottom, getting all the crap splashed up on it from the road.

If it is stripped, then all that has happened is the tiny tack welds done by FoMoCo just popped loose. Not unheard of to say the least (their tacks are very small). Throw a box wrench on the nut, a ratchet on the bolt, and spin it off.

If the bolt is seized in the bushing, unfasten the top shock nut, then turn the bottom nut off, and pop the stud out with the shock as a unit. Take the shock out of the car, put the shock on a block of wood or a bench (with the bolt head hanging over, put the nut back on the threads, and twack it off with a hammer (after liberal applications of penetrating oil of course).

If that doesn't work, you could always cut the shock loop & bushing to see if the bolt can be salvaged, or just buy another bolt. They are like $9. Use anti-seize on the shank to help keep it from rust welding again. You can re-tack the nut if you want, or just put it back together with a wrench every time.

I have a pile of suspension bits sitting in a bucket of evapo-rust right now, and probably 3 more buckets behind it. I know about rust [8]. Between living in Michigan, Minnesota, and New England, that is pretty much the way things are when working on cars. Everything becomes crusty orange pretty darn quick.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top