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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just put new struts on my 2010 Ford Focus using motorcraft quick struts. It has 115K on it. What symptoms have dramatically improved? Vibrations in the wheel, floorboard, and seat much improved. The Steering feels tighter, sharper, and smoother. The vehicle had bad wheel hop and would vibrate especially if you hit a bump, or rough pavement that has now been solved. I used quick struts the original strut mount and bearing plate appeared to still be in good shape, but the damper itself especially on the driver's side was completely shot it was like a marshmallow.
My only regret I should have done this sooner. I also put new rear shocks on it.
The only real tip I would have is once everything installed put it on ramps, and fully tighten it with the weight of the vehicle on the ground this will help ensure the strut is fully seated in the knuckle.
I could easily do them both under an hour.
I attached install instructions it's from a SVT Focus the process is similar.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2010,focus,2.0l+l4,1444693,suspension,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174


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https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5cc5a6c8c6b1e/FORDINSTSHTM-3000-ZX3(1).PDF
 

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New dampers= struts/shocks do make a difference & is a wear item.....I've never installed Motorcraft quick struts but have installed other aftermarket quick struts on other vehicles for ppl & found different ride height differences.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
New dampers= struts/shocks do make a difference & is a wear item.....I've never installed Motorcraft quick struts but have installed other aftermarket quick struts on other vehicles for ppl & found different ride height differences.
The ride height difference is definitely true. In my experience they eventually settle down.

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I did this last weekend and plan to write a full review after 1 month. I opted for Gabriel ReadyMount quickstruts and also installed a new set of Moog end links. The ride quality is slightly better. By this I mean less harsh, which was a hoped-for outcome. Rear is more noticeably harsh now, noticed going over patched expansion joints, so maybe its the "hop" effect. Will do rear shocks at some point but no rush. Car is 2010 SES, 114k. Saved at least $500 doing this project myself. Took several hours, but I went very slowly and methodically. If I had to do it again, I could probably do in 2 hours max. I don't wrench much, kinda proud of myself for doing this.

Edit: I have noticed no discernible ride height difference. Intended to measure before and after, but forgot to. If there was a difference, I wouldn't care.
 

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Ford may well use 10 different springs in the same car model. Sometimes they can even be different left side to right as some cars have more weight on one side and it's done to balance the height out.

When you buy quickstruts the available ones often do not cover all the spring rates, the makers trim the numbers down to lower inventory costs like they do with so many other things. The actual struts can be the same way.

I used to get complaints over it when I sold quickstruts, some settle down lower but some never did past a certain point and people were not happy with those.
 

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Dunno how so many of you eat struts like that, 3 cars with over 200K miles on them and not a single strut changed, the cars all drive perfectly and no vibration at all. I can as well sudden stomp the brakes to a 100% lockup and still have no trouble controlling the cars straight (no ABS). Push all your weight down on a bumper as hard as you can and the car bounces back up once only. Still plenty of damping there.

I'd change them if I were autoXing but no reason to not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know what to tell you the struts were definitely bad in the front. The ride quality has massively approved. These quick struts are motorcraft brand for the 2008 to 2011 Focus, and all of the part numbers matched the original strut assembly. The driver side strut was so bad you could rock it like Jell-O.

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Dunno how so many of you eat struts like that, 3 cars with over 200K miles
Probably shitty roads. Suspension parts last forever where I am now, but growing up with atrocious roads in/around New Orleans, alignments were needed often and blown shocks were a way of life.
 

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I just put new struts on my 2010 Ford Focus using motorcraft quick struts. It has 115K on it. What symptoms have dramatically improved? Vibrations in the wheel, floorboard, and seat much improved. The Steering feels tighter, sharper, and smoother. The vehicle had bad wheel hop and would vibrate especially if you hit a bump, or rough pavement that has now been solved. I used quick struts the original strut mount and bearing plate appeared to still be in good shape, but the damper itself especially on the driver's side was completely shot it was like a marshmallow.
My only regret I should have done this sooner. I also put new rear shocks on it.
The only real tip I would have is once everything installed put it on ramps, and fully tighten it with the weight of the vehicle on the ground this will help ensure the strut is fully seated in the knuckle.
I could easily do them both under an hour.
I attached install instructions it's from a SVT Focus the process is similar.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2010,focus,2.0l+l4,1444693,suspension,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174


Sent from my LG-LS997 using FF Mobile

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5cc5a6c8c6b1e/FORDINSTSHTM-3000-ZX3(1).PDF
I put on the KYB quickstruts a couple months ago, and I noticed they have more coils than the original springs as you can see in the picture. Ride height is slightly higher but I feel the springs are a touch softer. I just did the rear shocks a couple weeks ago and those seem to really help keep the the car flatter on turn in. Overall body roll in mid corner is the same of course, but the car will start turning faster so that will help with autocross this summer.
I am kind of tempted to compress the front suspension with some 10k ratchet straps for a weekend and see if that lowers the ride height permanently. I have to do some research on springs before I do that though.
 

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I wish I had a local shop that could do alignments like your shop does. I have to bring mine in multiple times, tell them to match the toe, and they still **** up somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wish I had a local shop that could do alignments like your shop does. I have to bring mine in multiple times, tell them to match the toe, and they still **** up somehow.
Good old country boys that have been in business for 30 years and they don't seem to run off their mechanics.

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I said I'd do an update after about 1 month so here it is.
Parts & Cost:
GABRIEL G57081 & G57082 Ultra ReadyMount springs/struts. $177.89 from RockAuto includes shipping & discount code.
Moog K80066 Sway Bar Links (2). $35.16 from Amazon Prime.
Alignment at Mr. Tire franchise, $95.48.

I live in the Washington DC area and drive on mostly urban streets that are in pretty bad shape. My preference was for a less harsh ride if that was an option. Reviews of this product usually referenced a smooth or "good" ride. As some of have said, with quickstrut products there is generally one part #offering, whereas with OEM there may be more due to different spring rates and trim levels. So theoretically this part may be softer, like a Focus base or SE, or it may be firmer to sort of cover all bases. Some reviews of other cars complained of a harsher rougher ride after installing quick struts. Who knows. I was ok with this, and I'm not interested in spending a lot of money on this car, but I wasn't going to buy the cheapest part out there (which are about $50 each).

I would say the slower speed "in town" ride is maybe slightly softer, but not hugely different. The highway ride is what seems to be more settled and stable and handles expansion joints and potholes at high speed with less drama and harshness. I don't take corners hard, so no huge difference in my perception.

Before the new parts I had some banging around in the front that I suspected to be sway bar links or struts. That has gone away, although there a few occasionally noises up there still-- perhaps arm bushings, sway bar bushings, etc. Its way better than before though. Car is 2010 SES sedan with 17" wheels and Michelin Premier A/S tires with about 30k of wear on them. If you have garage space and basic metric tools (deep well sockets, open ended wrenches, torque wrench, jack stands, etc.) I would totally recommend doing this job yourself to save money.

Total parts cost was $305.53. No sales tax since all was shipped to a no sales tax address, which is where I did the work. The quotes I got from shops in the DC area ranged from high 700's to $900+. I would do it again in a heartbeat, and consulted lots of YouTube videos first. Next job will probably be right and left engine mounts.

I did this last weekend and plan to write a full review after 1 month. I opted for Gabriel ReadyMount quickstruts and also installed a new set of Moog end links. The ride quality is slightly better. By this I mean less harsh, which was a hoped-for outcome. Rear is more noticeably harsh now, noticed going over patched expansion joints, so maybe its the "hop" effect. Will do rear shocks at some point but no rush. Car is 2010 SES, 114k. Saved at least $500 doing this project myself. Took several hours, but I went very slowly and methodically. If I had to do it again, I could probably do in 2 hours max. I don't wrench much, kinda proud of myself for doing this.

Edit: I have noticed no discernible ride height difference. Intended to measure before and after, but forgot to. If there was a difference, I wouldn't care.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wanted to do a update on this.
I cannot recommend the motorcraft quick struts anymore. Both the struts have developed a constant popping sound in the strut mounts.
Honestly this car has been giving me so many issues in the last couple years I don't feel like spending any money right now on it, or doing the work to replace the strut mounts. I will keep driving it as is.
Buying replacement strut mounts and a spring compressor will run me about $100. The whole reason I did quick struts was to avoid taking the struts apart. I figured motorcraft would be good quality but I guess the strut mounts suck.
So anybody reading this do not waste your money thinking you're buying a premium product you are not.

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I really didn't have any interest in modifying the suspension.

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Sure, but you would have been better off going the SVT route in the first place by looking at what you paid for just front struts. Now you still need bearings and tops etc.
It's all direct bolt-on and a better ride
 
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