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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
My car wasn't starting the other day. I'd turn the key and nothing would happen. The car never even tried to turn over. ARgh. So I start digging around and after I pulled the cover off of the battery (why is it even there?) I say the positive cable (not the part that affixes to the battery terminal) was corroded. I grabbed a can of coke and poured it over the cable to eat the corrosion away, which it did and the car drove fine. Thing is though that the red sheath and some of the positive cable itself is burned/melted. So, my questions are:

Can I get a replacement positive cable and replace it easily?
What would have caused this?

I'd better give you some more history before you answer the bottom question. You see, a little while ago the car would just cut out and all electric would go down for 3-5 seconds while driving on the road (freeway even). Totally scary, but what I found was a lose + battery cable that would come off of the terminal. Now I'm not sure how much damage that would have caused the cable itself, but if there was arching and now the corrosion, surely ther'd be more friction and heat.

Thoughts. I'm parked until I can get this figured out.
THanks for the help,
s
 

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C2H5OH
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Yes you can purchase a factory replacement from the dealer, or you can go about making one yourself, your choice.
You are also correct in that higher resistances cause more heat, higher heat can damage the sheathing of a cable.

My little cheat sheet is telling me that a salvage cable or DIY might be more economical. The way it looks the dealer wants about $80 for a positive factory cable, part #2M5Z14300BA.
 

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I can make you any battery cable at about 5-7 dollars a foot, including labor.
I need your old one first, I can duplicate the whole thing with heavier gauge wire and temrinals, and add any extra accessory terminations.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unfortunately I don't have a book in front of me, so I'm kinda in the dark. I'd be happy toeither replace the cable with a stock one or even get FocusMachOne to build me an upgraded cable. The problem is that I'm not sure where the tail end of the (+) cable goes. In my 02 Zetec, the main positive cable runs from the battery back behind the engine. I'm assuming it goes to the alternator but I can't be certain. Do you happen to know where the cable goes to? And, where the secondary cables attached to the (+) terminal go as well?
s
 

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C2H5OH
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Starting from the battery it is one solid wire to the alternator, but it has a 90° lug that fits onto the starter terminal. The wire that bolt on the top I believe are for the main fuse box, though it's been quite awhile since I was stock and I can't recall the best.
 

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i'm having this same problem....which is why my google search led me here.

anyway, i get in my car, turn the key half way, everything seems fine: beeping noise from door being open, interior lights are on, etc

as soon as i try to crank the engine, everything just dies, like in a split second just quietness and darkness, i pop the hood, jiggle the positive and negative cables, and the lights all come back on, but dies again as soon as i try to start the car.

i pretty much know my connections are bad, i went to auto zone, said they have positive cable for about 8 bucks. I'm just worried that replacing the cable might be to big a job for me, the most i've ever done is change my oil lol, i'm very new to the mechanic world, but also very interested
 

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i sell 8 dollar cables too, but i wouldnt recommend using it for permament use.
those cables i normaly only install on older fords/chev's for use on firewall mounted or direct starter/battery cable replacements, on newer/ish cars, the positive side has or can have many acces wires and terminations which "I" would replace aswell..
 

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Changed my + cable last weekend. Picked up 4 feet of marine cable, only place I could find red 8 gage cable. Like iminhell said it runs from the bat with a stop at the starter and then to the alt. The terminal on the starter has a large crimp and tried to reuse but no go. I thought about making one but did not have the correct material. So I picked up several 8 gage lugs, one to the bat and then to the alt. The bitch is getting to the starter. Cut to length, crimp, install and put everything back together.
 

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8g is almost primary wire, in fact its one step away from primary wire, not very suitable for anything larger then 50-75 amps.

your alternator alone can push 90amps at a full load.
your starter can draw upwards to 300amps when cranking, considerably more if its bad or weak.



your probably not getting any better results from replacing your oem cables with 8g, other then it being corrosion/resistance free, esp if you just crimped without fluxing/soldering.

not to be rude.

I would also expect your oem cable to last for "many many years" if regualar maint. is preformed, else factory defects or improper battery installations.
 

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Your table is correct but we are only talking 3.5 feet of 8 gage cable. If you take the table further to the left it will show 8 gage meets the needs. I did some amp draws several months ago and was surprised to see that with every electrical thing on, it was pulling 125 amps.

No offense taken just a healthy debate[wiggle] [wiggle]
 

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no worries, kudos. glad to know more people know thier cable requirements.
i would still opt for 4g for standard battery cable replacements, sure it may cost twice as much, but you could in essence quadruple the throughput without meeting resistance.
 

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jiggling the wire for anything to work is a bad thing in the first place
my connection on both POS+ and NEG- (not the ones directly on terminal) love to come loose due to my optima redtop install (the wires are stretching to reach) but be sure those middle ones stay put and tight

my POS+ on would come loose and my Auto transmission would choke out so be careful
 

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Battery cables off the starter motor

How the [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] do you get the stupid motherf[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]ing battery cables off the f[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]ing starter? POS ford design BS. God [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]g dammit, LOL! Okay, so I've removed the two nuts holding the plastic cap on the front of the starter, but is there something else holding it on the starter because the POS won't come off. I've got the alternator out, positive cable removed, but the plastic cap and negative are stuck on the starter?[mad][mecry][vommit][bash]
 
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