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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently completed the Solenoid A replacement fix, as documented here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167830

However, my CEL is still on - despite the transmission problem no longer existing and my car running fine. How does one go about getting rid of the CEL without going in to AAMCO (they insist on keeping my car for an hour to do a full service check - to try and get me to buy additional services)?

Thanks in advance.
 

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BACON?
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Or run down to autozone or a similar auto parts store. They can check and clear codes for free, using a scan tool.
 

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Flipping Rockstar
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Unplug your battery for ten minutes.
This. Once You do so, start her up and let her run at idle for a few minutes, then go for a nice drive(50miles +/-5) to make sure the code has been completely cleared(usually takes that long for all NR's to reset). Most of that should be highway, but mixed is okay, too. If the CEL comes back during the drive, do this
VVV
Or run down to autozone or a similar auto parts store. They can check and clear codes for free, using a scan tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Or run down to autozone or a similar auto parts store. They can check and clear codes for free, using a scan tool.
Weirdly Autozone (at least in CA) don't do the free scan anymore. I went in there on the weekend and the guy said they haven't been legally allowed to do so for almost three years now - AAMCO was the only place that could do it. I've done the ten min disconnect but will only get to drive later this evening after work, so hopefully that'll clear it. Thanks all.
 

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Some states (like mine, or is it the local area of emmissions?) no one is allowed to clear a code from a car.
Even the dealers after a repair insist I had to just drive the car through the cycle until the light went off by itself.
At least i was able to find the complete OBDII Ford cycle and do it. Took four complete from cold to drive, WOT, then cruise, for the light to go off.
 

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I prefer to do this with the engine warm. Remove negative battery terminal for 10 mins or so. Reconnect, and then start the engine without touching the accelerator. Start a timer, and allow the engine to idle for 6 minutes. What happens is after the engine is warmed to normal operating temperature, the PCM runs tests to find the optimal A/F ratio. Once it completes the test, the idle will drop to normal. If you have a tach, expect your idle to be as high as 1k rpm during the test, and will fluctuate. That is normal.

If you don't do this, then the PCM will keep trying to run the test any time the vehicle is idling and warmed up. Until it completes this test, you'll be stuck with a higher than normal idle, and bad fuel economy.
 
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