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I understand the fitment pic in post #19 and simply don't care for the thin water seal lip running inside of two other rubber pieces, that is not a part set calculated to last.

I found a single Timken part (Rock Auto) that replaces the two inner parts and much more robust looking with a normal easy install procedure, it would need the ABS part put on top of it.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1322179&cc=1431898&jsn=579

To me rubber on rubber on rubber is a seal that will fail quick as spit. No way would I be using that.

Yours and do what you will do of course, and no intention of upsetting anybody at all.
 

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To me rubber on rubber on rubber is a seal that will fail quick as spit. No way would I be using that.
This thread is only about maintaining or replacing the OEM configuration.
 

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I don't disagree with you often AMC, but this time I will.

Your seal choice for a replacement is a 'classic' solution, the newer style one here though more complex is a better long term fitment.

It's not rubber on rubber, it's a rubber seal mounted to the spindle vs. a metal wiping surface mounted in the hub.

Your classic style wears against the stub axle, and if it lasts long enough eventually you'd need a matching 'repair' sleeve to cover that if you can find one. (seldom needed/used for this)

The stock setup is made as replaceable on both sides, if you're doing a bearing replacement 'right' you'd be replacing both of them to take it back to as new condition. No wear to stub axle or hub.
 

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'...metal wiping surface mounted in the hub.'

I stand duly corrected, mine have no seals at all and cannot therefore say what it is made of. Thinking I tossed the carrier seals but so long ago I cannot remember. I let the bearing itself do all the work like on the fronts. No issues yet. Here in Texas where dirt (and quite often flooding) reign king.

I apologize to all if needed.........
 

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No problem here, I'm still a bit unsure of what they use in ALL applications myself.

Still remembering a picture of a drum brake version (no ABS) that looked like it pressed on to cover the whole inner end of the bearing area - over the OUTSIDE like the ABS tone ring and including the sealing surface for the same style axle rubber seal.
 

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Double-Lip Water Seal

I'm planning to complete a hub/drum replacement this weekend. Bought the hub from Ford because I like setting fire to money. They also sold me the double-lip water seal (1M5Z-1A095-A) for $16. The seal comes built into a plastic/composite ring, which I assume protects it prior and during installation.

Found instructions on how to mount it using a special tool (of course) by searching this: 2000-ford-focus-rear-wheel-wheel-bearings-the-nut-reverse-threaded (yes, the nuts are not left-handed)

Apparently you crank down the tool which seats the rubber ring and cracks the protective cover so it can be removed leaving a perfectly installed seal! Anyone have Real Life experience with this?

I don't have a special tool, so I'll be crafting something out of pipe and the the soon-to-be-retired hub nut. Then, when I wreck that seal, I'll go to NAPA and pick up the aftermarket version and a six pack from the corner store to celebrate another job half done.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm planning to complete a hub/drum replacement this weekend. Bought the hub from Ford because I like setting fire to money. They also sold me the double-lip water seal (1M5Z-1A095-A) for $16. The seal comes built into a plastic/composite ring, which I assume protects it prior and during installation.
The plastic composite ring I used to pound the seal on, unless your talking about something different, care to share pics?

Found instructions on how to mount it using a special tool (of course) by searching this: 2000-ford-focus-rear-wheel-wheel-bearings-the-nut-reverse-threaded (yes, the nuts are not left-handed)

Apparently you crank down the tool which seats the rubber ring and cracks the protective cover so it can be removed leaving a perfectly installed seal! Anyone have Real Life experience with this?

I don't have a special tool, so I'll be crafting something out of pipe and the the soon-to-be-retired hub nut. Then, when I wreck that seal, I'll go to NAPA and pick up the aftermarket version and a six pack from the corner store to celebrate another job half done.
Look further back in this thread, there are plenty of pics and information on how to install that little seal. If you need the little plastic installer I have a few of them sitting around I can drop one in the mail.
 

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Not sure why Pasta did that, his reply did not answer your questions, but did answer questions that you did not ask. But was a good reminder to NOT install the bearings upside down, when the car is ABS equipped.



I can't help, I do not have the answers your looking for.

My only experience with the water seal carrier was with drum brakes, not with the rotor setup you have on the back.

Posting here to BUMP your questions. Good luck.

BTW the "that little wheel seal that goes on the rear spindle" is likely the sister-part, the mating-part, to the water seal carrier, right? Until someone comes along that knows the exact answer, I might put these two parts together off-the-car, to see if inwards or outwards makes more sense.

any help you Can give with drum brakes? i have an 09 focus and just ran into this problem
 

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I'm asking you since you did such an amazing job with the pics... i just ordered a motorcraft BRDF-13 brake drum and it came with the bearing inside and everything,,, but looking at this water seal carrier ring doesnt look normal?

I took some pics and finally had time to upload them just to give more detail of what we've been talking about in case someone needs pics.

Now that these cars are getting more rare, some of these parts are going to get harder and harder to find. I ordered everything through Napa and it was still a day or so to get them. I would recommend just ordering a Ford OEM hub and bearing assembly and swapping and just replacing the inner seal. Then you don't have to deal with the headache of finding a water seal carrier if its damaged or missing and less chance of screwing something up when reassembling.











 

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...but looking at this water seal carrier ring doesnt look normal?
Hello BlackHawk,
The pictures you posted have obvious severe damage of the water seal carrier "metal ring" on your new Motorcraft BRDF-13 brake drum. You should not use that new wheel drum or (1) get a replacement drum from the same provider or (2) snap-off or pop-off the damaged ring and then install the same new wheel drum, -without the metal-ring water seal carrier or (3) replace the damaged metal ring with a new ring via junkyard parts...?

Other people here at FF have run without that metal seal ring for many years,... and they have lived to tell about it. On my 2004, my rear wheel drums still have the metal ring "water seal carrier" installed only because of my personal choices and my unique journey with these rear wheel bearings & drums. These rear wheel drums & bearings & water seal carriers, have a very personal connection to me. This relationship is still evolving. I also believe we have another new dance soon due to squeaky things.

Your call BlackHawk...
 

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BTW, if you are a UH-60 kinda BlackHawk person... I feel your pain & the enjoyment of maintaining the beast. My UH-60 story is blah-blah-blah boring & fantastic... This story will not be told here.

The Far Side: ((1986-1991)) + (you a Tango) UH-60 T.H.? Are you here/there? I am Still looking for you...Reeep! Meeeef.
 

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Hello BlackHawk,
The pictures you posted have obvious severe damage of the water seal carrier "metal ring" on your new Motorcraft BRDF-13 brake drum. You should not use that new wheel drum or (1) get a replacement drum from the same provider or (2) snap-off or pop-off the damaged ring and then install the same new wheel drum, -without the metal-ring water seal carrier or (3) replace the damaged metal ring with a new ring via junkyard parts...?

Other people here at FF have run without that metal seal ring for many years,... and they have lived to tell about it. On my 2004, my rear wheel drums still have the metal ring "water seal carrier" installed only because of my personal choices and my unique journey with these rear wheel bearings & drums. These rear wheel drums & bearings & water seal carriers, have a very personal connection to me. This relationship is still evolving. I also believe we have another new dance soon due to squeaky things.

Your call BlackHawk...
Yeah so I was planning to return the drum and get another one,

But I am curious, the seal container doesn't seem to want to come out without a lot of effort, is it possible to replace it? would you damage it when trying to press it into the hub?
Also, does the water seal container have friction with the seal at all? it seems confusing how that works. I'm new to this whole thing.
 

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Those rings are tricky, and are merely "press-fit" into position. Use two or three different flat-tipped screwdrivers to pry the ring out. I remember ALSO Carefully using a needle-nose vise grip pliers.

Also, (IF your car has ABS) I noticed your new drum does not have an ABS Tone Ring; so please ensure to "pry-off" the Tone Ring (also tricky) from your old drum & install on your new drum BEFORE you install the metal water seal carrier. The Tone Ring "pry-off" requires a second person (I used my teenage son) or maybe a Bench Vise (?) to hold the drum during pry-off. Pad (protect) the tone ring; then Carefully rubber-mallet the ABS ring back on.
No, there is no friction of the water seal metal ring VERSES the rubber seal (on the hub). If there was any friction (during wheel turning) these parts would fail.
Sadly, I have done this process more than once. It was never easy or fun; especially the first time. Last time I did this, my Son laughed and "knew the drill".... wish I had made a video. The way we do this job is a little funny.
 

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Yeah so I was planning to return the drum and get another one,

But I am curious, the seal container doesn't seem to want to come out without a lot of effort, is it possible to replace it? would you damage it when trying to press it into the hub?
Also, does the water seal container have friction with the seal at all? it seems confusing how that works. I'm new to this whole thing.
I use a single large flat blade screwdriver placed under the ring and use a twisting motion to lift the ring from its bore without damage. Then I press the old bearing out of and new bearing into the drum using a 'hub tamer' type forcing tool set (a press can be used as well but in my opinion a hub tamer set is much more versatile). The ring then can be gently driven back in without damage using the outer shell of an old gutted rear wheel bearing - it is a perfect fit.

Im not sure what is confusing. Almost all of the seals in your engine/drivetrain consist of a elastomer, usually having a 'lip', that 'rides' on a spinning steel journal: think crankshaft seals, camshaft seals, front axle seals, etc. What is going on at the rear of the drum spindle is no diffferent - the steel ring in the drum spins against the stationary elastomer seal on the spindle (I dont use the term 'rubber' because most automotive seals are not natural rubber but synthetic elastomers).

Paul IMG_5279.JPG
 

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Thanks Paul. Your explanations & descriptions have much improved-on what I was babbling-on about.

...so please ensure to "pry-off" the Tone Ring (also tricky) from your old drum & install on your new drum BEFORE you install the metal water seal carrier....
Marde,
You have apparently had a stroke or a brain-fart?
The metal water seal carrier is installed first AND THEN the ABS Tone Ring is installed last.
 

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Thanks Paul. Your explanations & descriptions have much improved-on what I was babbling-on about.



Marde,
You have apparently had a stroke or a brain-fart?
The metal water seal carrier is installed first AND THEN the ABS Tone Ring is installed last.
Yep, i got that darn expensive jar lid top.... smh that thing was like $23 for a little magnesium and a canning lid.
 

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Yep, i got that darn expensive jar lid top.... smh that thing was like $23 for a little magnesium and a canning lid.
Reading in-between your code-words & sarcasm, I think you bought a new (metal-part) water seal carrier, -right?
Did you purchase this $23 part via Ford or via another party company?
So you are on-track to repair your new wheel drum VERSES having the new drum replaced by the company that sent you a damaged part? -right?
 

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Reading in-between your code-words & sarcasm, I think you bought a new (metal-part) water seal carrier, -right?
Did you purchase this $23 part via Ford or via another party company?
So you are on-track to repair your new wheel drum VERSES having the new drum replaced by the company that sent you a damaged part? -right?
No the ABS ring is hat i was talking about. that doesn't come with the drum usually comesz from the old one or the car, but i dmamaged mine and it was damaged before hand.
 
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