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Local-ish dealer (via fordparts.com) got back to me and said my hub is BV6Z-1109-C. I guess I'll order them today!

No more updates on this topic from me for like 2 weeks - I'll be on vacation. [wiggle]
 

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Local-ish dealer (via fordparts.com) got back to me and said my hub is BV6Z-1109-C. I guess I'll order them today!

No more updates on this topic from me for like 2 weeks - I'll be on vacation. [wiggle]
What?! How can you take a vacation and leave us at such a cliff hanger?
 

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What?! How can you take a vacation and leave us at such a cliff hanger?
I knowwwwwww! And it'll actually be more like 3 weeks because I won't be able to install the new rear wheel bearings until May 31st/June 1st. Maybe I'll spoil you guys (read: myself) and install it during the week of the 27th. [:p]

I haven't decided if I'm going to do any experimentation with the new rotor/tire/upper camber arm setup, etc. or just install it all while I'm down there. I'd almost rather replace just the bearing and leave on my bad tires and leave the camber the same so that if the noise goes away I can take my car to the dealer and explain how I found the issue.*

I could also put on my new tires and drive a little bit to see if the noise is still there, which would imply that it wasn't tire noise.

*Unless that's not the issue and then I'll just look like an idiot.
 

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Got the new bearings (BV6Z-1109-C / Motorcraft HUB-251) and spinning them by hand they don't make any clicking noises (no surprise there...) I'm trying to see if I have enough time to install them tomorrow after work. [wiggle]

That way I can at least put my 18" summer tire set back on since my winter tires are probably melting off in this warm weather.
 

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Got the new bearings (BV6Z-1109-C / Motorcraft HUB-251) and spinning them by hand they don't make any clicking noises (no surprise there...) I'm trying to see if I have enough time to install them tomorrow after work. [wiggle]

That way I can at least put my 18" summer tire set back on since my winter tires are probably melting off in this warm weather.
Damn, has it been two weeks already?.... I must be losing my mind. Anyway, looking forward to seeing what the new bearings do once on the car!
 

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...looking forward to seeing what the new bearings do once on the car!
Hopefully, it's what the new bearings don't do. zummazummazummazumma
 

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Hopefully, it's what the new bearings don't do. zummazummazummazumma
So funny. :p Any updates as of yet? Also, this might have been covered already, but are the bearings for the Ti Handling package a different part number than those on the regular suspension?
 

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So funny. :p Any updates as of yet? Also, this might have been covered already, but are the bearings for the Ti Handling package a different part number than those on the regular suspension?
Update: Read post #10:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=420922

Basically, it's harder to take apart than I expected. It's not in this thread because it's troubleshooting and not really useful information yet. heh...

EDIT: That list I had looked all wrong, so it's not even worth posting.

Bearings are different depending on the configuration of drum versus disc brakes, w/ or w/o auto park assist and possibly the 2.0L versus electric motor. My bearing is different not because it is a titanium, but because it has park assist.
 

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I should probably mention that the new bearings have been on for almost a month now. No noises (yet), but they're also new tires. I also replaced the rotors and pads and did the upper control arms right before the bearings in hopes that it extends their life.

I'll keep you guys informed if anything weird happens! [wiggle]

EDIT: Tires seem okay so far - only 7-8k on them. I still have the rumbling noise while rolling to a stop, so it must be coming from the front bearings/brakes/or the drive line. Talk to you when I get that all figured out!
 

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I should probably mention that the new bearings have been on for almost a month now. No noises (yet), but they're also new tires. I also replaced the rotors and pads and did the upper control arms right before the bearings in hopes that it extends their life.

I'll keep you guys informed if anything weird happens! [wiggle]

EDIT: Tires seem okay so far - only 7-8k on them. I still have the rumbling noise while rolling to a stop, so it must be coming from the front bearings/brakes/or the drive line. Talk to you when I get that all figured out!
I know old thread but I've been checking this thread periodically last year and I think i'm starting to experience the same as yours...


Any updates??
 

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With rear tire wear? My tires are doing great now - honestly, I'm convinced the biggest factor was the adjustable camber arms.
 

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I know old thread but I've been checking this thread periodically last year and I think i'm starting to experience the same as yours...


Any updates??
Hey there ElCouz, what's the model year and current odometer reading on your ride? Let me know if you've visited your local dealership recently regarding this concern; I'm happy to assist!

Brittany
 

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Hey there ElCouz, what's the model year and current odometer reading on your ride? Let me know if you've visited your local dealership recently regarding this concern; I'm happy to assist!

Brittany
Hey there, I apologize for piggy backing on a fairly old thread here but I have a 2012 focus SEL hatch, and I've also recently developed this issue in my rear driver's side tire which is cupping quite badly after only about 25k on my tires. They have been rotated regularly but the problem only became evident after a winter season with 2 winter tires on the front, which left the back 2 tires on longer than normal and the wear became visible at that point.

My local dealer mentioned that it would need some sort of adjustable aftermarket upper control arm to align it properly which is going to cost me nearly a grand after all is said and done. I can't rotate the tires out as it's just going to eventually wreck all of them, and if it's just on the one side, it seems like it's defective in some way but it was expressed to me that it wouldn't be covered under warranty, which I have very little of left. I'd like to get anything that should be covered dealt with before it runs out. Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

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Unless you've got collision damage that puts the camber well out of the maximum spec., rear tire wear issues are primarily from toe in adjustment.

Can't fix scrubbing that wears the rear tires from a camber adjustment, the toe in needs to be reduced.

You want rear toe in down to as close to 0.10* as you can get it, anything over 0.20* starts chewing at tires noticeably.

Better to reduce the wear than accept it and spread it around by rotation (not that rotation is BAD, just that excessive wear problems should be fixed so it's less critical)
 

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Unless you've got collision damage that puts the camber well out of the maximum spec., rear tire wear issues are primarily from toe in adjustment.

Can't fix scrubbing that wears the rear tires from a camber adjustment, the toe in needs to be reduced.

You want rear toe in down to as close to .010* as you can get it, anything over .020* starts chewing at tires noticeably.

Better to reduce the wear than accept it and spread it around by rotation (not that rotation is BAD, just that excessive wear problems should be fixed so it's less critical)
Yes, my intention is to eliminate the wear otherwise it's pointless to replace or rotate the tire. My question is, if it's so bad that it's eating one specific tire in that short of an interval, does it not seem like something warranty should be handling? I've been told I have to purchase aftermarket parts to deal with the necessary adjustment but my thought is something is wrong in the first place. It doesn't even have 100K KM on it yet.
 

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Can't be sure of issues without numbers on alignment, take a look at page 5 of this thread for examples/comments on another's alignment:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/brakes-suspension-body-chassis/676553-mk3-springs-2inches.html

Check your warranty book for current details, AFAIK they don't do alignment under warranty past a relatively short time (6 mo - one year?). After that it's assumed that any issues are from road hazard damage, not warranty items unless something is found broken from a defect.

Factory settings are too wide anyways for best tire wear, practical experience since the MkI has shown that toe is usually the prime issue for rear tire wear with specs in the 0.10 to 0.20* range (lower the better) being good. Published numbers can range from 0.15-0.35 or more for some high specs seen. (just saw one chart that recommended 0.38 at the rear, it's 0.18 min was a good number)

Upper arm is a camber adjustment, haven't seen that needed for stock cars without appreciable damage as a camber bolt can give .50* adjustment by itself if needed. Unless that one corner is showing well over 2* camber it shouldn't be an issue, and bolts can bring camber to 2* or under in most cases if needed. (specs up to 2.16* for acceptable)

Can't well relate to Canadian current pricing, nearly $1k for alignment and rear camber arms on both sides at the worst seems rather exorbitant.
 

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Can't be sure of issues without numbers on alignment, take a look at page 5 of this thread for examples/comments on another's alignment:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/brakes-suspension-body-chassis/676553-mk3-springs-2inches.html

Check your warranty book for current details, AFAIK they don't do alignment under warranty past a relatively short time (6 mo - one year?). After that it's assumed that any issues are from road hazard damage, not warranty items unless something is found broken from a defect.

Factory settings are too wide anyways for best tire wear, practical experience since the MkI has shown that toe is usually the prime issue for rear tire wear with specs in the 0.10 to 0.20* range (lower the better) being good. Published numbers can range from 0.15-0.35 or more for some high specs seen. (just saw one chart that recommended 0.38 at the rear, it's 0.18 min was a good number)

Upper arm is a camber adjustment, haven't seen that needed for stock cars without appreciable damage as a camber bolt can give .50* adjustment by itself if needed. Unless that one corner is showing well over 2* camber it shouldn't be an issue, and bolts can bring camber to 2* or under in most cases if needed. (specs up to 2.16* for acceptable)

Can't well relate to Canadian current pricing, nearly $1k for alignment and rear camber arms on both sides at the worst seems rather exorbitant.
Appreciate the info. I'll have a chat with my shop and see what we can determine.
 

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I just want to say after years and years of poor tire wear (this car has ate way too many tires for its mileage) I finally think im getting somewhere after I installed rear toe control arms (adjustable) this past summer. After a few months the tires still look great. I also noticed the car seems to be more planted...firmer. I wish i would have put them in years ago. Getting the old ones out was not easy. The bolts broke on both sides and i had to cut them out with an angle grinder. Also had to buy some new bolts.
 

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This thread is in the MkIII Problems section (2012 +) but yes - the same problems apply.

Finding a good way to get toe right is critical for good alignment/performance.
 
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