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Did you start hearing the humming when you put your winter tires on? My snow tires defiantly make a sort of humming/whirring noise compared to my all seasons. Same with my all terrain vs. all seasons. Just the way the tire sounds with a particular tread pattern.
Well, my summer tires were cupped on the inside edge so they were unbearably loud. But the whirwhir noise (which, coincidentally could have just been the cupping) was there and started around fall of 2012 (~40k miles?) which was before the tires got really bad.

The wheel might not necessarily feel loose or have play if the bearing is bad. Jack up the car again and perhaps use a mechanics stethoscope to listen.
Will do.

There is no CV joint on the rear wheels, so that shouldn't be it. They make more of a clicking noise anyway. I wouldn't think 1/8th toe would cause an issue, next time you get an alignment, ask the tech to set it in the middle of the acceptable toe in/out range. I never did like how they don't center it in the middle of the range.
Well, I technically haven't pinpointed where the noise is coming from, so it could be from the front. I noticed the cupping while my tires were on the rear, but at least 2 of them were cupped and they're rotated all the time so I don't know which corner(s) caused the cupping. I don't think a bad CV would cause cupping, though the cupping and whirring noise might not even be related.

Assuming it's not my tires (though it might be)... if I can't tell which corner the whirring is coming from, do you think it's the front driver's side and I'm practically right on top of it so it seems like it's the whole car but it's really right in front of me? Ugh, I need those chassis ears. Xmas present for myself?
 

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Not to insult your intelligence or anything, but you're running them at 35psi right? I used to use only pen gauges and cheap dial gauges, I ended up getting a nicer dial gauge only to find out those pen and cheap dial gauges are pretty much junk. They were off by 10% or more in PSI. This is what I ended up with and I'm very happy with it: http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1386186884&sr=8-3&keywords=tire+pressure+gauge

A tread depth gauge might also help you, I take measurements of the inner/center/outer tread when I rotate the tires every 6k miles. It may help you spot problems before they become too serious: http://www.amazon.com/Milton-S448-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B0002STSQM/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

Alignment would be suspect #1, along with PSI, for cupped tires. I would take it the car to a shop and have them align all four wheels dead nuts in the middle of the spec range.

I can't image why a bad CV joint would cause cupping. A bad shock though, yes, that could not provide enough damper causing the wheel to bounce and prematurely wear the outside of the tire. Are the roads bad where you typically drive?

You aren't carrying extra weight in the car, are you?

The humming could very well be coming from an out of spec camber. Sorry I can't be much more help. Good luck.
 

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Not to insult your intelligence or anything, but you're running them at 35psi right? I used to use only pen gauges and cheap dial gauges, I ended up getting a nicer dial gauge only to find out those pen and cheap dial gauges are pretty much junk. They were off by 10% or more in PSI.
Well, I'm guilty of using one of those pen gauges...

I can't image why a bad CV joint would cause cupping. A bad shock though, yes, that could not provide enough damper causing the wheel to bounce and prematurely wear the outside of the tire. Are the roads bad where you typically drive?

You aren't carrying extra weight in the car, are you?
Milwaukee isn't really known for its smooth roads... As far as extra weight, definitely not. In fact, I've lost about 45 lbs since I purchased the car!

A tread depth gauge might also help you, I take measurements of the inner/center/outer tread when I rotate the tires every 6k miles. It may help you spot problems before they become too serious: http://www.amazon.com/Milton-S448-Tread-Depth-Gauge/dp/B0002STSQM/ref=pd_sim_auto_1
I want it. I need it.

The humming could very well be coming from an out of spec camber. Sorry I can't be much more help. Good luck.
It's not your fault - there are a lot of variables here. The -2.2* camber is pretty much borderline out of spec. I'm thinking about getting adjustable camber arms soon.
 

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PratoN; said:
When you get your alignment, sit in the drivers seat while the tech does the adjustments. Include everything in the car, weight wise, that you typically drive around with. Especially on lighter cars like the Focus, it doesn't take much weight to change the way the suspension handles when loaded.
 

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Here with an update - I'm also getting heel-toe wear on the inside edge of my winter tires. I thought this was weird because I'm getting it on all four tires.



My alignment is enough in-spec that I don't think it's that big of a problem. Moreover, if it were my -2.2* of camber combined with the .13" toe in, it should only be on my passenger side tires since they're directional and would never be switched to the driver's side. I also thought it was weird that the pitch didn't change while turning...

And now that it's finally warm out, I was able to take off the tire and brake pads to see if any bearings were bad. I took off my brake hardware and it's doing this clicking on both rear tires. Think that's my problem?


This is an older video of what my car sounds like rolling to a stop:
[REMOVED] The car still does this - likely both front bearings

I'm kind of mad because I went to get an alignment like 20k miles ago and specifically asked them to check my bearings.

EDIT: I'm also not entirely convinced that my front wheel bearings aren't damaged. I didn't spin them as fast as my rear wheels and didn't think to run the car while both tires were in the air (with wheel chocks, parking brake on and ABS off).

Do you think the dealership is competent, or should I find out if the fronts are damaged as well before taking it in?
 

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Do you think the dealership is competent, or should I find out if the fronts are damaged as well before taking it in?
Hey PratoN,

I do recommend making an appointment with your local Ford Dealer. Once you do so let me know and I'll look into available options.

Todd
 

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Hey PratoN,

I do recommend making an appointment with your local Ford Dealer. Once you do so let me know and I'll look into available options.

Todd
Thanks, Todd! Will do. I'm planning on checking the front bearings again today since last weekend I didn't spin them as fast as I spun the rear tires when I started to hear the clicking. I just want to make sure the front are good too so that I don't have to make a second appointment if one (or both) of the front bearings is also bad. After all, I do have 80k miles, low profile tires, and I drive through this daily:

http://www.jsonline.com/news/traffic/potholes26-b99213399z1-247113021.html

That's legitimately what the roads look like in Milwaukee right now. In fact, that exact pothole is 2 blocks from my house.
 

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Front bearings seem okay to me - I didn't feel comfortable running the car on jackstands, so I just spun them by hand as fast as I could. I did hear clicking from the front left wheel, but it could have been coming from the transmission and not the hub assembly. I used a mechanic's stethoscope and the knuckle sounded quiet. I'll ask the dealer to check it out just in case.

Time to schedule a dealer visit! [wiggle] Maybe I'll ask about my coolant leak/gunk again.
 

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Time to schedule a dealer visit! [wiggle] Maybe I'll ask about my coolant leak/gunk again.
Be sure to PM me the time, servicing dealership, and up-to-date mileage when you do make the appointment.

Todd
 

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I took it to the dealer today and they charged me for diagnostics and refused to admit that the bearings were bad. I essentially fought with the tech who said it MUST be an alignment problem (it's in spec, it's been checked 3 times). Even after I showed him the video on my phone... He jacked it up in the shop, and while I'll admit that it doesn't seem as loud in-person as it does on the video (especially with the tire on), he didn't even use a mechanic's stethoscope or put his head to the hub to hear it.

So now what? Get it "escalated"? Go to another dealer? Can I get my $62 if the other dealer finds a problem? Do it myself? I'm honestly considering a lawyer. I asked my lawyer friend about my options today. I honestly can't keep doing this. I just want the extended warranty to be over so that I can fix it myself, but until then it's the principle that I have paid for it and it's not getting fixed.

I mounted my second set of 18" tires today but they're not going onto the car until this problem is resolved.
 

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Opinions?

1. Escalate case and see where it goes.
2. Repair it myself ($200-$250) and...
---a. just let it be.
---b. bring the parts back to the dealer and try to get at least my $62 back.
3. Have someone else diagnose and repair it ($??? - let's be real, probably $500-$600 since the parts are expensive) and take the dealership to small claims court.

Go!
 

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I feel like I'm talking to myself, here...

Anyway, I've opened up a case with the regional service guy. I have also decided to take it to an independent shop for a "professional opinion/quote" so that I can use that as leverage against the dealership when I go the second time. If they still deny it, it's small claims court time. I'll keep you guys up to date! [:)]
 

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I feel like I'm talking to myself, here...

Anyway, I've opened up a case with the regional service guy. I have also decided to take it to an independent shop for a "professional opinion/quote" so that I can use that as leverage against the dealership when I go the second time. If they still deny it, it's small claims court time. I'll keep you guys up to date! [:)]
Reading this thread has me worried. :p I've got the Ti handling package as well. I haven't noticed any of the noises you have, nor the weird tire wear issues. However I'm only about 12k into my tires and really I haven't looked that closely because everything seems fine and Discount Tire hasn't said anything when I've been in for rotations.

Please keep updating this thread with what's going on, I'm curious to see how this plays out for you. I hope it ends well though. Good luck!
 

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I hope it ends well though.
I'm sure it will! The worst case scenario is I replace them myself for $250 and don't get any reimbursement from the Ford dealership.

I suppose replacing them myself and then taking them to court and losing would be even worse - but I'm hoping it gets resolved before it gets to court.
 

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The independent shop said the left rear bearing is bad and he wasn't sure about the rear right (I'm assuming it's bad since the tires are getting that irregular wear on both sides of the vehicle and my winter tires are directional so they haven't been cross-rotated. Also, both rear rotors look grooved.) Obviously, he said it's not a safety concern since the wheels aren't loose, but he's going to get me an estimate today. I wish I had been in the shop with him, I would have spun that right wheel faster!

Anyway, hopefully the estimate will be enough to get Ford to replace it.
 

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Eh, so I'm feeling kind of apathetic and I might just install the new bearings myself. Mostly I'm afraid Ford is going to charge me another $62. I might just try to bring the old bearings back and see if I can get a refund for the diagnostics labor.

I figure I'm going to get the toe closer to 0 and I might finally install my adjustable camber arms, so after all of that it's not going to be much work for me to install the bearings.
 

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I'm trying to figure out if the hub assemblies for this car have been discontinued. They're listed as Motorcraft HUB-181 on the fordparts website, but it lists them as pick-up only and it doesn't list a price.

As far as I can tell, the original part number is BV6Z-1104-C? I see BV6Z-1109-C (HUB-251) on this website, but it lists it as drum brakes and automatic parking. Is that even a possible configuration?

http://www.group1autoparts.com/auto-parts/2012/ford/focus/driveline-and-axles/wheel-bearings-seals-and-related-components/?trim=se&engine=2-0l-l4-flex&part_number=bv6z1109c

RockAuto also has HUB-251 listed under rear; automated parking system (no brake type listed). I don't want to purchase the parts and install them only to have an ABS light and find out that I can't use the park assist anymore... or have my wheels too far in because they're for drum brakes. [scratch]
 
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