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Hey guys,
Sorry if this has already been discussed; I didn't have time to go over the threads thismorning before work and just got the green light for this weekend so just trying to get some pre-emptive infornmation if you'd be so kind :D

Last spring I installed the "SVT" suspension from summit racing which included the front struts/lowering springs, rear shocks/springs, and a rear sway bar. I never got the rear sway bar installed because low and behold, our sedans don't have the mounting brackets. I'm getting a ton of body roll and have been looking into ride heights and such for our foci.
I called summit to ask which ride height i should set the rear to when the sway bar is installed, and he had no idea. It's an SVT kit, but an LX chasis. I'm lost and don't want the mess up the camber in the back if I don't have to, but i'd really like to get this rear sway bar on.
My main question is can I just hit a junkyard and either pull a zx3 crossmember and use that? or in lue of that could I use the measurements from their crossmembers? I've read on here of someone using exhaust clamps lol. I'm gonna weld it for sure tho. Thanks guys.

-Austin Jones
 

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slow
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You can get this kit, and substitute in the SVT bushings:

http://focus.c-f-m.com/freeshippingeibachrearswaybarhardwarekitfor00-04focuswithoutrearswaybar.aspx

As you can see, the kit is really just a pair of steel plates that attach with some U-bolts. If you're already talking about welding, I would just take some measurements off a rear sway bar equiped car, and weld some plates to the subframe to match that setup.

Word of caution on a michigan car, make sure you take care of any rust that you might find on the rear subframe.
 

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Have the hardware new, here is a pic, pm if interested.

What ares the with and lenghth of the steel plate Kinda looks narrow could this plate be wider and use two or maybe three clamp's like two clamps on outer side of bushing bracket through and one through the plate and bushing bracket or is the space that limitted or clamping area limitted?
 

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Thank you. I don't have one on my 2011 and will be putting one on and trying to get all my options checked out. But it looked like it would flex with only one clamp each.
 

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Your concerns have some validity. A number of members end up tack welding the plates onto the subframe after final positioning and installation. They found that they do loosen up and can twist/change position. The tack welding pretty much solved the problem.
 

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I would do that but the car is new and I don't want to mod any thing to the point that the dealer would say that they will not warrenty anything. that was may thinking be hind the three u bolts so it could be esaly removed and installed and not be flimsy looking or loosen up. Thanks though I will have to see what I can make to install the sway bar myself.
 

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br/o/stang
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I would do that but the car is new and I don't want to mod any thing to the point that the dealer would say that they will not warrenty anything. that was may thinking be hind the three u bolts so it could be esaly removed and installed and not be flimsy looking or loosen up. Thanks though I will have to see what I can make to install the sway bar myself.
they will loosen up and squeak or clunk. i had the steeda kit and it sucked until I got it welded. the dealer shouldnt give you any grief and probably wont even notice.
 

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they will loosen up and squeak or clunk. i had the steeda kit and it sucked until I got it welded. the dealer shouldnt give you any grief and probably wont even notice.
Did you use the solid bushings or the springs, does it make any difference?
I had a hard time tightening the top bolt on the bracket closest to the fuel tank, do you have a special tool? Mine squeaks and clunks too, what did you have welded (do you have pic's)?
 

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So mote be it
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Did you use the solid bushings or the springs, does it make any difference?
I had a hard time tightening the top bolt on the bracket closest to the fuel tank, do you have a special tool? Mine squeaks and clunks too, what did you have welded (do you have pic's)?
That bolt was the hardest to get, it's just super tight in the area by the gas tank. I ended up using a small crescent wrench straight on to hold the nut still while I tightened the bolt. Was glad once it was on. I had some noises, I went back and reinstalled the brackets and used the foam that Steeda shipped with the kit with.

Also, did you grease the bushings at all? I bought some suspsion grease that came in a tub. Between the foam for the brackets and the grease on the bushings, it helped quiet everything down. I will still probably find a shop to weld the brackets in place, just depends on when I find the motivation and the time. I really only notice some small noises on slow turns now.

I didnt use the springs, I tried but couldnt get them installed. It was too hard to compress them enough by myself. So ended up using the solids [:)]
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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I hated my steeda add a sway kit. For u to use it the clamps were to far in on the sway which limited its sway affect. They need to be out towards the edge like my Svt. I would suggest having a fabrication shop make and weld plates to the subframe and buy 2 Svt U swaybar clamps from ford and use grade 8 hardware. Take pics of a focus that as them and show the shop that's the only way to get maximum results without sealing subframes.
 

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Thanks for the info

I used grease on the bushings to slip them over the bar, but nothing else, and i also used some spray grease once they were installed. the instructions show the link bushings installed with the nut on the bottom, but I noticed that someone installed them with the nut on top, to me it makes sense to do it with the nut on top so I am going to re-do that part of the install and get the brackets welded.
 

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Thanks for the info

I used grease on the bushings to slip them over the bar, but nothing else, and i also used some spray grease once they were installed. the instructions show the link bushings installed with the nut on the bottom, but I noticed that someone installed them with the nut on top, to me it makes sense to do it with the nut on top so I am going to re-do that part of the install and get the brackets welded.
The instructions from Steeda said if the car was lowered at all to have the nuts installed on the top of the endlinks and then installed on the bottom if the car was at stock height. Just check for clearance if you do flip them, just make sure they wont be hitting/rubbing anything with any suspension travel
 
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